When you buy replacement brake lines from any of the usual suppliers, are they cut to the specific length required, or are they just the closest stock length piece that I could buy at the local NAPA? They really don't say and I haven't found anyone who can say at the ordering lines. None of them come pre-bent, do they?

 

Boss Auto Parts states that their lines are all pre bent. I have never bought any from them, so I don't know what the quality is.

 

I Bought the SS brake lines from NPD for my 50 F1. they were the right length and pre-bent to fit.

Bill

 

I think LMC Truck sells pre-bent sets of lines for 48-52 trucks.

 

I think inline tube sells a prebent kit too.

 

Thanks guys, I'll check some of those places!

 

Replacing break lines is on my list of to-do's.
Is it that much easier to buy pre-bent, or should I break down and learn how to run break lines, put bends in, cut to lenght, and all the goodies that go along with it?

 

oscar, oscar, oscar....

do them yourself... there are several very valuable (and expensive) lessons to learn here...

1. how to waste 30-40 feet of good steel tubing making bad/wrong/crimped bends

2. how not to forget to put the fittings on BEFORE you flare the tube...

3. how to spend lots of money on good bending, flaring and tubing cutting tools... more tools, Oscar... it's a good thing


you're missing a prime educational opportunity here fella...

I always say... if it ain't worth screwing up yourself... it ain't worth doin at all !!!

later
John

it really isn't that hard... and gets to be fun... well maybe fun is not the right word... it gets to be a challange !! that's it a challange !!

maybe this will convince you that even I can do it !!!

brake line plumbing

 

I'm not interested in driving in a truck that I learned to flare tubing on! Every time I needed to stop quickly, I'd be thnking about that one fitting....

 

I put mine together using various lines from Napa. They're small so bending them isn't too difficult. Sure, I ended up using a union here and there, but no leaks. One thing my old Napa buddy steered me away from was trying to cut and double flare your own and I'm glad he did.

 

It's not that tough at all. Civilian aircraft mechanics cut, bend, and flare their own hydraulic lines all the time. You just have to remember to de-burr the inside of the line after you flare it, and yes, put the fitting on BEFORE you flare the tube! I've actually done that!

Jniolon, that's an excellent article! I came across a link somewhere on this site that said it was a link to your website. The link didn't work. Do you really have a site? If so, can you hook me up with a link so I can pick your brain?

 

I agree. I did the same thing. I've been through the double flaring stuff and it's a PITA. Just get some lines close to the right length and that will work fine...

 

John is right, there are valuable lessons to learn here and the opportunity to have more tools.
I cut, flared, and bent all of my own lines on my truck. There is nothing like spending countless hours trying to calculate just how long the line has to be, where to make the bend, how late the part store stays open so you can go get another length of tubing, etc. I will have to redo one of the lines coming off of the master cylinder because I don't like the way it looks, but its a minor thing.

I cut, flared, and bent my own tranny cooler lines also.

Bobby

 

The secret to double flairing tubing is using the right flairing tool. A cheap tool will not do it right, in fact many of the expensive ones won't either no matter what the advertising hype says. Forget entirely doing your own SS flairs! Go to your friendly welding supply co and buy some 3' lengths of 1/16" uncoated brazing rod. Use it to bend a pattern for each piece you need to bend. It's soft enough to bend with your fingers but stiff enough to hold it's shape. After shaping and cutting off the excess, measure the cut off and subtract from 36" to determine the length you need for that piece.
Now you can decide if you want to flair your own or bend up the preflaired pieces. The biggest problem I've had with using the bulk tubing over the preflaired ones is the bulk usually comes in a spool and has to be straightened first. If you're not too fussy about appearances or are real fussy about straightening the tube, then the bulk is an economical alternative (if you count tool purchases as long term investment that you'll use again, rather than a one time cost.). Otherwise I can do a lot neater job using straight lengths. If the closest length to what you need is a little too long there is usually someplace in the run where you can add a Z bend or even an "inchworm" hump to take up the excess. Those type bends also are a good idea to use to give the tube expansion room and flexibility so it's less likely to vibration crack or leak and makes the install easier.

 

I wasn't aware that was necessary on a truck's brake system. In an aircraft hydraulic system, curves are made in fluid lines to clear components and relieve stress on the line, but we're talking about pressures as high as 3100 psi. How much pressure is in a brake system in one of these old trucks?