FTE, i have a problem
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Hesperia, So Cal
FTE, i have a problem
if you all read my post about the leak on my 6.9, the next thin ill tell you will make sense, the other night when i putted it home, i parked it in the front driveway, not thinking to park it in front of the garage......now today when i went to start it to move it over to the garage, it just kept cranking over, and i had to give it throttle to get it started, once it turned over and started, i let of the gas and it immediately died, so i started it again the same way, but this time stayed on the throttle, went to put it into reverse and it immediately died again, i started it back up and repeted the process and you guessed it, it died again, i dont know what up, all i know is its been sitting 3 days, and the "engine temp" light is still on........ did i realy screw up my motor the other night, all insight is appreciated, i need to get this back on the road ASAP, im losing work cause of it! Dustin
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Senior User
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From: Hesperia, So Cal
i was just talking with my buddy, he was saying mabey since that light is still on that there may be some solenoid or something else to that effect that was triggered to shut off the motor to protect it from overheating? if so, how can i bypass/reset it so i can get it over to my garage?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
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From: Manitoba
How much fuel is in it at or less than 1/4 tank on the one selected. Have you tried draining the the water separator...... if it is the original don't forget to put a bolt up the drain hose to stop air intrusion.
Test the fuel lift pump......
Do a pressure and flow test of the fuel pump at the Schrader valve on the filter header (FSS- fuel shutoff solenoid disconnected on IP). Remove the tire valve core and hook a hose and pressure guage on it should see 4-6 psi when cranking. Then do a fuel quantity test same place, should see 1/3 pint in 10 seconds of engine cranking, route fuel to a suitable container with a hose.
Test the fuel lift pump......
Do a pressure and flow test of the fuel pump at the Schrader valve on the filter header (FSS- fuel shutoff solenoid disconnected on IP). Remove the tire valve core and hook a hose and pressure guage on it should see 4-6 psi when cranking. Then do a fuel quantity test same place, should see 1/3 pint in 10 seconds of engine cranking, route fuel to a suitable container with a hose.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
The engine temp light switch is located in the drivers side head right in front of the exhaust manifold. Try unpluging and repluging the connector. Also check the wire to the connector for bare wire. There is no relay in that circuit.
The start and die sounds like you have air intrusion into the fuel system which lets the fuel drain out of the filter back to the tank. This could be either the injector return lines or the return line from the #1 injector to the fuel filter.
PLC7.3 has another valid point with the fuel level. The pickup tubes are known to crack and let air into the fuel lines in the tank. Usually this happens around 1/4 tank in either tank.
The lift pump test should also be done to make sure it is working correctly.
When you do the flow test,
If you get a lot of air at first but it clears up and gives you a solid stream of fuel, I would replace the return lines and O rings on the injectors.
If you get lots of air or bubbles even at the end of the test and your fuel level is low in the tanks, I would think it may be the pickup tube in the tank is cracked.
If your truck still has the water seperator on the firewall, it could be the problem.
That style seperator was known for air leaks.
The start and die sounds like you have air intrusion into the fuel system which lets the fuel drain out of the filter back to the tank. This could be either the injector return lines or the return line from the #1 injector to the fuel filter.
PLC7.3 has another valid point with the fuel level. The pickup tubes are known to crack and let air into the fuel lines in the tank. Usually this happens around 1/4 tank in either tank.
The lift pump test should also be done to make sure it is working correctly.
When you do the flow test,
If you get a lot of air at first but it clears up and gives you a solid stream of fuel, I would replace the return lines and O rings on the injectors.
If you get lots of air or bubbles even at the end of the test and your fuel level is low in the tanks, I would think it may be the pickup tube in the tank is cracked.
If your truck still has the water seperator on the firewall, it could be the problem.
That style seperator was known for air leaks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
If you are only able to get 5 or 6 gallons in each tank when they read empty, I would bet you pickup tubes are cracked.
Fuel gauge and pickup tubes last about the same amont of time.
The smallest tanks I know of on the diesels is 17 gallons each.
Fuel gauge and pickup tubes last about the same amont of time.
The smallest tanks I know of on the diesels is 17 gallons each.
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Senior User
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From: Hesperia, So Cal
ok, but couldnt the gages be wrong? i mean, i only go about 50-60 miles before i have to put in more fuel whn the tanks say empty, i just figuered the gages were wrong...
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when i got my 85 i too could only get a few gallons in the rear tank and it would run out really quick this i had to fix so down cam the tank and low and behold the tube was completly broke off so a fuel hose was clamped on it and vout and tank cleaned out hundred of small pieces of tube pulled out then came the vent pipe it too was stoped up so i converted it to vent out of the fill neck and wow it holds almost 20 gals now so we did the front tank also
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
That is what I am saying, over the years I have noticed when the fuel gauge goes flakey, I can expect the engine to start running out of fuel before the tank is empty.
A cracked fuel pickup tube is the reason it runs out of fuel.
I get over 200 miles on my front tank at 10 MPG.
My front tank holds 22 gallons, but it is not a stock tank.
A cracked fuel pickup tube is the reason it runs out of fuel.
I get over 200 miles on my front tank at 10 MPG.
My front tank holds 22 gallons, but it is not a stock tank.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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just try it look at how big the tank is now say self do i relly see only 5 or 6 gals in there or is the room for more then take the time and pull the tanks you will have dirt oil grease fuel and who knows what else all over ya but this is why we have the good old idi rite then fix and wow you can go bout 275 miles on one tank man just thinking of all this makes me want to go get dirty lets all go drop our tanks
Last edited by dwaymar; Sep 7, 2006 at 10:49 AM. Reason: spelling
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
The pickup tubes have nothing to do with the gauge reading wrong.
Also it is not the gauge that is wrong, it is the sending unit that is worn out.
The tanks are not baffled, there is a lot of room for the fuel to slosh around.
I have found that the pickup tubes last just about the same amount of time the gauge sending units do.
If the gauge goes flakey, the pickup tubes are soon to follow.
If it starts running out of fuel at 1/4 tank, the gauge will start doing all kinds of weird stuff shortly.
I have replaced both of mine twice in a little over 300,000 miles.
I also had to replace both fuel tanks due to rust at a little over 250,000.
Also as I said before, the smallest stock tanks I know of are 17 gallons each.
Some were 19 and some were 22.
So if you have to fill up at 6 gallons, you are only getting about 1/3 or less of the fuel out of the tank.
My aftermarket tanks are 22 gallons front, 44 gallons rear.
My range is a little over 800 miles before I have to stop for fuel.
Also it is not the gauge that is wrong, it is the sending unit that is worn out.
The tanks are not baffled, there is a lot of room for the fuel to slosh around.
I have found that the pickup tubes last just about the same amount of time the gauge sending units do.
If the gauge goes flakey, the pickup tubes are soon to follow.
If it starts running out of fuel at 1/4 tank, the gauge will start doing all kinds of weird stuff shortly.
I have replaced both of mine twice in a little over 300,000 miles.
I also had to replace both fuel tanks due to rust at a little over 250,000.
Also as I said before, the smallest stock tanks I know of are 17 gallons each.
Some were 19 and some were 22.
So if you have to fill up at 6 gallons, you are only getting about 1/3 or less of the fuel out of the tank.
My aftermarket tanks are 22 gallons front, 44 gallons rear.
My range is a little over 800 miles before I have to stop for fuel.
Last edited by Dave Sponaugle; Sep 8, 2006 at 08:00 PM.
