Good deal! Glad you found it.

 

Does anyone know where to get the special tool from. Is it a must have or does it just make the job alot easier. Thanks

 

On further inspection this leak is coming from under the fuel filter. There is a large circular piece under the filter housing and the oil is flowing out from under that, but only while the engine is running. This is under the filter on the back side. Any ideas?

 

im at school now, and after consulting with my teacher, we both agree that the leak is coming from the circular disk at the rear of the HPOP, the access cover for the plungers inside, held in by a snap ring. he says there is an o-ring that seals it, however he doesnt think that it is a replacement part, and he said that you will need a new HPOP if the leak is in fact coming from the seal at this disk.

 

Ok, on a much closer/intimate inspection I believe the leak is coming from the nut or plug that was spoke about in the first or second reply (11/16 plug). It appears to be coming out there and running down the side of the flat round dumaflotchy and then running off the bottom of that into the middle of the engine. It was finger tight but loose with a socket. I was wondering if there was supposed to be a o ring on that or some sort of sealant. It has some red stuff buckled up on one side like an old gasket. How tight is that nut supposed to be anyway. Thanks again.

Ray

 

After much investigation on the phone with dealers and a couple of different auto parts places I have found that there is a o ring supposed to be on this plug and it is only available at the dealership. Actually it is a kit with all the o rings for the oil pump. 36.00. Next question would be, do you all recommend changing all the o rings out or waiting untill there is a leak?

 

Ray,


As you found out there is supposed to be an O ring on that plug. I'm nost sure about the torque specs but you can just put an O ring on from autozone until you can get the correct part from the dealership. I'm no expert but I wouldn't mess with the others until you have to.

 

Like white Buffalo said, I would just hang on to the rest. I'm sure someone can find proper torque specs, but with most o-rings tighten up just enough to stop the leak. Don't over tighten. Glad you got it figured out. Got me thinking about getting the o-ring kit you spoke of and keeping it in the truck/

 

Changed out the o ring that was leaking. Maybe I should say, that when I pulled the plug I didn't see an o ring. I thought at the time that the o ring was what was hanging out around the outside of the plug. Oil flows out the hole quite readily so I was rushing to get the o ring on and three threads of locktite like the directions say. Got it all put back together and topped off. When I started it up it ran like a top, but the check engine light was on. Thought maybe that I needed to run it a little and then it would go off. Backed out to clean up my mess and the check engine light goes off and all of sudden the thing starts running really really rough. What could have happened? The only thing I can think of is that in my haste to get the plug back in the old o ring got left in there and now is somewhere in the pump.


On a lighter note, the torque specs come in the kit that I hadn't read when I asked the question. Also the phone number to order the special #6 quick release tool to take the High pressure lines off is in the kit also. 58.00 and a week and it is yours. I will wait to change the other rings out.

Now just have to figure what is causing the rough running.

 

Your poor running condition could be a result of low oil level in the HPOP after losing that much during your repair. Check it at the plug on top. Put fresh oil in there to top it off if it's way low and see what happens.

Edit: WHoops, I see you said you topped it off after the repair. Hmmm. I would check the level again anyway.

 

I would guess that it would not be the old o-ring. When my plug started to work loose the o-ring was in pieces. I would think that at the rate your oil was spitting out it would have flushed the pieces of the old ring down the underside of your truck with the other 10 qts of oil. Rough idle can be caused by many things. How's your oil pressure? How long (seconds) does it take your oil pressure guage to come up after starting? Is your fuel tank less than 1/4 full?

 

The oil pressure jumps right up and is about half to three quarters. Right where it has always been.
I went back out and started it up again and it is running fine now. However the check engine light is on again. I ran it up and down the street and seems ok. There is a little surge in the throttle that appeared after I changed the fuel filter out. I will save that question for my next thread. I probably need to let you all in on what all I got on this truck. I got it at an auction and it was without seats and had some electrical issues due to being stolen and used to transport illegals and such. They went through great lengths not do be discovered in the desert at night. Had all kinds of wiring to turn off the tail light and brake lights while off road and then switch them back on for on road travel. Any how, when I got it it had a Western Diesel Chip(out of business)(cant find any specs on the thing) Stainless steel exhaust from the manifold back. I have never measured it but it is large. I am guessing 5 inches or so, maybe 6. A Mag HiTec rear differential cover ( I assume the rear end is not stock) I am in the process of puting guages in. Those were stolen as well along with all the wiring. The exhaust bung was in the wrong place anyway( so I am told) It is just to the passenger side of the turbo. Got that all plugged up and just need to drill the hole for the new one under the truck and that will be done. Anyone have any thoughts on what is a good code reader. I had looked into Super Chip but didn't want to pay for another chip when the one I have seems to do just fine. Let me know what you all think

 

Is it a flip chip? I know TS chips sold a lot of chips under vendor names. Perhaps you can contact TS and inquire about that. Have you looked at it? Most chips will have a name stamped on them. Usually TS. Even DP tuner used the same chip for it's flips but had their own programs.

As for the surge in throttle after changing the fuel filter, drive it a bit if you have a stock fuel system It may clear up as air is eliminated. It could also result from the tune of your chip, the aforementioned fuel filter change and the HPOP oil settling itself out. In other words, see if it will drive out.

 

Sounds like you have a real work in progress! Sometimes the SES light takes a good 5 minutes or so to turn of. Like Tenn01PSD350 said, drive her a bit.

 

after you replaced the o-ring, did you check engine oil level and fill, and then the reservoir level too? the rouch running may be something as simple as getting some air in the HPOP rails, due to unhooking the hose, the oil could flow out, and you probably trapped some air inside the hose, and now it is pushed into the cylinder head gallery. if it will idle, start it and let it run for 15-30 minutes, and see if it doesn't get better. the HPOP system is "dead end", and once you get air in the system, the only way to get it out is by having the injectors "eat" the oil, and the air in it too.