self head porting
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self head porting
i have askes questions about waking up my 460 and i know about poting heads and that it is a little $$ and i have done alot of research and have printed off pages of doing it yourself and i was woundering how hard it would be to do it after buying a head porting kit from jegs?
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Originally Posted by 460mudtruck
i have askes questions about waking up my 460 and i know about poting heads and that it is a little $$ and i have done alot of research and have printed off pages of doing it yourself and i was woundering how hard it would be to do it after buying a head porting kit from jegs?
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Escondido, CA
Porting them is tedious. You will spend a good portion of your weekend doing them. I ported mine and would do it again. The material comes off slow enough to keep from damaging them. I used a cylinder/round nose and round tree burr to do mine. The parts you have to take a lot of time to do would be around the valve openings and guides. If you plan on replacing the valve seats, port them before hand. I nicked one and had to do the valve seat again.
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From: Fort Worth,Texas
Originally Posted by 460mudtruck
i have askes questions about waking up my 460 and i know about poting heads and that it is a little $$ and i have done alot of research and have printed off pages of doing it yourself and i was woundering how hard it would be to do it after buying a head porting kit from jegs?
Good luck
Bill
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Missouri
Those head porting kits with the cartrige rolls are what I use to finish out the ports and they work good for that. To really remove the metal fast you need some double cut carbide burrs. Use ones with a round end. Wear a face sheild and dust mask and it's not too bad. Cast iron dust is really nasty. It also helps to have a light shining from the opposite side of the port that your working on.
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From: Fort Worth,Texas
Originally Posted by greenhighboy
Those head porting kits with the cartrige rolls are what I use to finish out the ports and they work good for that. To really remove the metal fast you need some double cut carbide burrs. Use ones with a round end. Wear a face sheild and dust mask and it's not too bad. Cast iron dust is really nasty. It also helps to have a light shining from the opposite side of the port that your working on.
greenhighboy is corect that you need to use a carbide burr to rugh it out. Yes allwas use proper saftey equipment. I would allso include ear protecton in the list.
Good luck
Bill
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You may want to invest some time and a little bit of money on the information on porting. It is real easy to get into big trouble or really mess up the flow of a set of heads if you don't know what you're doing. Definately get an old head to practice on before doing your good heads. Here is a link to to a porting video you might be interested in -
http://martelbrothers.com/catalog/St...D-p-15508.html
http://martelbrothers.com/catalog/St...D-p-15508.html
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Missouri
I usually get mine from McMaster-Carr. I like the egg shape and the cylindrical in a 3/8" diameter. One cutter should do several sets of heads. Just don't let them chatter and they will last longer without breaking the carbide.
http://www.mcmaster.com/
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Fort Worth,Texas
460mudtruck,
I posted this in responce to a differant post but I think it bears repeating hear.
I think Scott's site has the best advice on porting. I have just started a porting a set my self. I think it would be verrey usfull for a beginer to start by doing a little clean up work on the outside to get the feel of how the process workes and how the castiron works when you hit it with a rotery file or sandpaper roll. This will help you get the feel of working with thease tools if you don't have much experiance. I have over 35 years experiance bilding airplanes and I started on the mold lines on the outside just to get a feel on how this cast iron was going to cut. LOL it is a lot easier to smouth and blend a mistake on the outside than in a chamber. I didn't have a set of junk heads to practise on.
I don't think it is that hard just folow the instructons on Scott's site. Well worth the money.
Bill
I posted this in responce to a differant post but I think it bears repeating hear.
I think Scott's site has the best advice on porting. I have just started a porting a set my self. I think it would be verrey usfull for a beginer to start by doing a little clean up work on the outside to get the feel of how the process workes and how the castiron works when you hit it with a rotery file or sandpaper roll. This will help you get the feel of working with thease tools if you don't have much experiance. I have over 35 years experiance bilding airplanes and I started on the mold lines on the outside just to get a feel on how this cast iron was going to cut. LOL it is a lot easier to smouth and blend a mistake on the outside than in a chamber. I didn't have a set of junk heads to practise on.
I don't think it is that hard just folow the instructons on Scott's site. Well worth the money.
Bill
Elder User
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 877
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From: Missouri
I second everything WILDEBILL said. I paid and used scotts site several years ago when I was doing a set of DOVE heads for all that I could get out of them. The info and pictures he has on his site are well worth the small fee. Especially if they save you from scraping a head.
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If you have the patiance, it's not that hard, it's just tedious and mind-numbing. To port and polish a pair of heads, you're looking at at LEAST 8 hours of sitting at the bench with a dremel breathing in metal dust, probably 16 hours or more if you've never ported heads before. You'd dedicate a weekend solid to it
Really I'd advise against it. I tried porting the heads on my 460, and promptly ground through into a coolant passage, effectivly ruining the head. It's also way to easy to accidently nick the valve seat with the bit.
Is this a carbed 460 or an EFI? The EFI heads have pretty good flow stock and don't really need to be messed with untill you start pulling crazy power. Dunno about the carbed heads.
Really I'd advise against it. I tried porting the heads on my 460, and promptly ground through into a coolant passage, effectivly ruining the head. It's also way to easy to accidently nick the valve seat with the bit.
Is this a carbed 460 or an EFI? The EFI heads have pretty good flow stock and don't really need to be messed with untill you start pulling crazy power. Dunno about the carbed heads.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 292
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From: Fort Worth,Texas
Originally Posted by Tsaven Nava
If you have the patiance, it's not that hard, it's just tedious and mind-numbing. To port and polish a pair of heads, you're looking at at LEAST 8 hours of sitting at the bench with a dremel breathing in metal dust, probably 16 hours or more if you've never ported heads before. You'd dedicate a weekend solid to it
Really I'd advise against it. I tried porting the heads on my 460, and promptly ground through into a coolant passage, effectivly ruining the head. It's also way to easy to accidently nick the valve seat with the bit.
Is this a carbed 460 or an EFI? The EFI heads have pretty good flow stock and don't really need to be messed with untill you start pulling crazy power. Dunno about the carbed heads.
Really I'd advise against it. I tried porting the heads on my 460, and promptly ground through into a coolant passage, effectivly ruining the head. It's also way to easy to accidently nick the valve seat with the bit.
Is this a carbed 460 or an EFI? The EFI heads have pretty good flow stock and don't really need to be messed with untill you start pulling crazy power. Dunno about the carbed heads.
Bill
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 197
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From: commerce city co
porting is teadios and with practic can be done by a do it your selfer use your gaskets as a guide not to open them up past it also on 65 and newer heads there is a emissions air tube cast into the head that runs the length of the head on the bottom of the exhaust port opening grinding into that also makes the head junk pre emmision they are capped at both ends and no holes are drilled into the exhast port butt the tube is still there. later heads had an 1/8 inch hole into the exhaust port for the smog pump
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