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97 ranger check engine light self diagnosis?

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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 10:14 AM
  #1  
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Question 97 ranger check engine light self diagnosis?

New member here...hello all!

I did a search for the check engine light but I got ALOT of hits so i figured i'd just ask.

I have:
1997 Ranger
2WD
2.3L
160000 miles
runs fine...no symptoms

Check engine light came on yesterday. No noticeable symtoms and the check engine light comes on and stay on since it lit up for the first time. Is there a sequence that i can go through with the ignition to self-diagnose and get the trouble code or is my best bet to have Autozone read it for me?
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 10:35 AM
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Rockledge
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Welcome to FTE.

Your '97 is OBD-II which means that a code reader must be used to retrieve the codes from memory.

Autozone will pull codes for free, get the code #s and then post them here.

Don't buy any parts until you get some feedback.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 11:41 AM
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Thumbs up

thanks rockledge. I had heard of other vehicles having a self-diagnosis mode but wasn't sure if the Ranger had it. I'll stop by an autozone on the way home and have them pull the code. I'm guessing it's an O2 sensor but we'll see.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 11:55 AM
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texan2004
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It could be soething as simple as a bad gas cap. Pull the codes. A scanner costs less than $100.00 at Walmart and can be used on other than Ford vehicles of similar vintage. One of the best purcahses I ever made. Comes with a book to explain the codes.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 04:17 PM
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so..............................


Autozone pulled the code (one code only)
P0171---"System adaptive fuel too lean (Bank1)" from Haynes manual

So I was right with the 02 sensor. Now what do I do. Keep in mind this truck has 160000 miles on it but I do plan on driving it as long as it will allow.

Thanks for any and all advice
 
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 07:29 PM
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87 XLT
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Will have to make this quick b-4 I get dumped back to my home page & my response dissapears?????

Looks like a MAF sensor problem or a vacuum leak. Replacng the O-2 wont help.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 05:37 AM
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AlfredB1979
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^^^

My thoughts exactly. The code wasn't for the O2 sensor not switching, heck, it hasnt even been tested yet anyway, so let's not jump the gun just yet.

Could even be something like an exhaust leak on a truck with that mileage on it...
 
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by AlfredB1979
^^^

Could even be something like an exhaust leak on a truck with that mileage on it...
Could be...my truck has had a small exhaust leak for nearly 100000 miles. I'm sure it is a coincidence but I'll mention it anyway. The day before the check engine light went on I lost the vibration dampener (harmonic balancer) on my driveshaft. It is a 5-10 lb. solid steel donut that is pressed on to the slip yoke b/t the tranny and driveshaft. I've since removed it and am not planning to buy another slip yoke (they come as assembly $140 from stealership).

My truck has no symptoms from either the loss of the dampener or the source of the error code.

AM I RISKING ANYTHING BY IGNORING THE ERROR CODE?

If the answer is no, I doubt I'll even make an attempt to fix it. Hell, I've lived with annoying electrical problems (dome light...corroded modules....bad door ajar switch....dashboard light fading) and a weak engine (turbo mode is when the AC is off) for 8 years and 160000 miles. I think I can handle staring at a yellow check engine light.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 09:40 AM
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texan2004
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From: Friendswood, Texas
Originally Posted by jasonk2
Could be...my truck has had a small exhaust leak for nearly 100000 miles. I'm sure it is a coincidence but I'll mention it anyway. The day before the check engine light went on I lost the vibration dampener (harmonic balancer) on my driveshaft. It is a 5-10 lb. solid steel donut that is pressed on to the slip yoke b/t the tranny and driveshaft. I've since removed it and am not planning to buy another slip yoke (they come as assembly $140 from stealership).

My truck has no symptoms from either the loss of the dampener or the source of the error code.

AM I RISKING ANYTHING BY IGNORING THE ERROR CODE?

If the answer is no, I doubt I'll even make an attempt to fix it. Hell, I've lived with annoying electrical problems (dome light...corroded modules....bad door ajar switch....dashboard light fading) and a weak engine (turbo mode is when the AC is off) for 8 years and 160000 miles. I think I can handle staring at a yellow check engine light.
Most of your problems are pretty simple maintenance items (dome light...corroded modules....bad door ajar switch....dashboard light fading) that can be corrected in an afternoon. If you don't mind looking at the enigne light it may run for a while but when something else goes out, having not corrected this problem may significantly impair your ability to troubleshoot the next problem. You won't know if something is really bad or if something has adjusted itself out of speec in order to compensate for your current problem not ever having been corrected. I would fix it but that's me.

I would also fix the exhaust leak. I would also replace the driveshaft component. you may be looking at a much more expensive transmission rebuiild/replacement at the worst or a U-joint consumption problem at the least if you don't. Ford did supply unnecessary parts with these trucks.

You are only loking at $250.00 - $300.00 and a Saturday to fix everything.

BTW - my daughter is driving essentially the same truck with the same miles (170K-175K). I've kept the maintenance up on it and it runs like a dream. I've never had the valve cover off of it. Others on here have over 300K on theirs.
 

Last edited by texan2004; Aug 31, 2006 at 09:46 AM.
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by texan2004
Most of your problems are pretty simple maintenance items (dome light...corroded modules....bad door ajar switch....dashboard light fading) that can be corrected in an afternoon. If you don't mind looking at the enigne light it may run for a while but when something else goes out, having not corrected this problem may significantly impair your ability to troubleshoot the next problem. You won't know if something is really bad or if something has adjusted itself out of speec in order to compensate for your current problem not ever having been corrected. I would fix it but that's me.

I would also fix the exhaust leak. I would also replace the driveshaft component. you may be looking at a much more expensive transmission rebuiild/replacement at the worst or a U-joint consumption problem at the least if you don't. Ford did supply unnecessary parts with these trucks.

You are only loking at $250.00 - $300.00 and a Saturday to fix everything.

BTW - my daughter is driving essentially the same truck with the same miles (170K-175K). I've kept the maintenance up on it and it runs like a dream. I've never had the valve cover off of it. Others on here have over 300K on theirs.
The engine is as strong (or as weak) as ever but due to my locale, there are so many corrosion issues that I couldn't possibly remedy them all. Eight Cleveland winters will wreak havoc on any car but many of the issues I've had are with electrical parts that weren't made from corrosion resistant metals. Just another big company pinching pennies. I can speak from experience as I deal with Ford (and others) as a tier II supplier. I fixed the corroded blower module and the door switch. I gave up on the dome light...it wouldn't shut off and have never addressed the speedo light fading. This truck isn't worth a $1500 so I have a hard time throwing $300 into, not knowing what problem might be next. I'm just going to keep putting oil and gas in it until she croaks. I do alot of "low stress" highway miles so I am hoping for the best.

Thanks for the input.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 10:19 AM
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texan2004
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The dome light is the door switch in driver's door handle. Try spraying liberal amounts of WD-40 throguh whatever hole you can find in the door to drench the door handle and consequently the switch. Work the exterior door handle as you do this. It may take a while but the dome light problem will eventually be corrected.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by texan2004
The dome light is the door switch in driver's door handle. Try spraying liberal amounts of WD-40 throguh whatever hole you can find in the door to drench the door handle and consequently the switch. Work the exterior door handle as you do this. It may take a while but the dome light problem will eventually be corrected.
thanks for the tip...i'll give it a try
 
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 03:02 PM
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texan2004
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Are the dash lights just dim or are there some that are burned out. It's a common problem on these vehicles. About a 15 minute job to pull the instrument panel if you've done it before. 30 minutes if it's your first time. Simply replace all of the backlight bulbs. The idiot light bulbs are generally not a problem becasue they aren't on near as often.

IF it's not the bulbs, it's likely the dimmer switch. Again, another quick fix and just a couple of bucks at the junk yard and probably not all that expensive at the auto parts store.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by texan2004
Are the dash lights just dim or are there some that are burned out. It's a common problem on these vehicles. About a 15 minute job to pull the instrument panel if you've done it before. 30 minutes if it's your first time. Simply replace all of the backlight bulbs. The idiot light bulbs are generally not a problem becasue they aren't on near as often.

IF it's not the bulbs, it's likely the dimmer switch. Again, another quick fix and just a couple of bucks at the junk yard and probably not all that expensive at the auto parts store.
If there are multiple bulbs that illuminate the instrument panel, I am guessing that the center bulb is all I have left. At night on a dark road, the center of the speedo is all that can be seen.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 08:07 AM
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Ranger Dash Bulb Replacement
 
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