Auxiliary Idle Control has a Gremlin....

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Aug 28, 2006 | 09:21 PM

AlaskaF350PS

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From: Ogden, UT

Auxiliary Idle Control has a Gremlin....

Has anyone else who has the Aux. Idle Control unit ever had it malfunction? The wife noticed last week that it wouldn't engage and control the RPM's when she started the truck on a cold (34F) morning. Of course she just told me last night.....

I haven't had the chance to do any diagnostics....am hoping it is simple and someone has had the same problem.... Twice today I tried to engage it, with the parking brake engaged, the tranny in neutral, etc. Just flashed it's red RPM control light at me and did nothing.... Any ideas or should I check on the electrical systems forum?

With our temps during the winter up here it is a VERY necessary component.... Would like to fix it before the weather makes it impossible to work on the truck, given I have no shop

.

Thanks

Kevin

Aug 28, 2006 | 09:43 PM

dagren99

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From: Virginia - SW (Riner)

Aic

Did the dash light for the parking brake come on when it was engaged?

Even though the p-brake was physically engaged the electrical signal to the AIC (via the GEM) showing it was engaged wouldn't be there.

Just a thought.

DG

Aug 28, 2006 | 11:56 PM

wolfmanagh

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From: Twin Cities, MN

I had mine crap out on me. Mine would show the display for a little bit then it would go out with the back light still working. I'd then unplug it plug it back in it would show the display and quit again. After play with this for a week it just gave up and wouldn't even light up.

I ended up buying a new one (new in box never opened) off of ebay from user "snowgroomers"
He isn't set up to take paypal but he can do a credit card over the phone. He is selling a few of these still which are just left over inventory that has been sitting for a couple years. He is actually selling stuff for http://www.aspenequipment.com

Aug 30, 2006 | 11:13 AM

kbeefy

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From: Eastern Washington

Quote:

Originally Posted by dagren99

Did the dash light for the parking brake come on when it was engaged?

I had this exact problem w/ mine... sticky e-brake switch. Cleaned it up and it works fine now, good luck from anchorage!

Sep 4, 2006 | 05:21 AM

AlaskaF350PS

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From: Ogden, UT

Thanks for the suggestions and info, everybody. Sorry for not saying it sooner but had a buggy computer too!

Am thinking now that the parking brake assembly might be damaged. Am not getting the "ratcheting" sound as it engages, and according to the wife a couple of times she has pushed the pedal down only to have it pop back up w/o engaging.... One more thing to investigate/repair before winter....

If anyone has any ideas as to the parking brake, that would be extremely helpful too.

Thanks

Kevin

Sep 4, 2006 | 12:09 PM

BowTieHatr

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From: Florence,SC

if it is a manual tranny check clutch switch. any whatsoever input from clutch switch will cause the idle kicker to not work.

Sep 5, 2006 | 01:20 PM

AlaskaF350PS

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From: Ogden, UT

Clutch switch is next, didn't have time to check it out last night....have checked the parking brake control/switch and it while the control is a little loose and may need to be replaced, the electronic switch still works properly , the dash light comes on, and the brake still works to hold the truck as long as you set it tight and make sure it is holding.

I know I have an EBPV problem... could that be causing the truck not to go into either auto high-idle when cold, or allow the Aux. Idle Control to work? I'm going to replace it today or tomorrow, as soon as I can get the part.

Thanks everyone!

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Sep 5, 2006 | 06:26 PM

Medic 66

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Quote:

Originally Posted by dagren99

Did the dash light for the parking brake come on when it was engaged?
Even though the p-brake was physically engaged the electrical signal to the AIC (via the GEM) showing it was engaged wouldn't be there.
Just a thought. DG

My thought exactly. Sometimes I have to push the pedal a little harder to get the light to come on and that is when the controller will engage. When the light comes on and not when the pedal goes down is the magical situation.

Sep 5, 2006 | 09:11 PM

#10

AlaskaF350PS

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From: Ogden, UT

Yeah, checked the parking brake switch but it is fine. Beginning to think that it is the clutch switch, as the wife now tells me she has noticed a "clicking" noise when depressing the pedal to shift. The shop that did the CPS noted that the "Clutch safety switch is missing the retaining clip" when they did the work. Why they didn't call and ask if I wanted them to replace it, I don't know. In the meantime, I will check the switch in the cab and then check the "safety switch" and get the retaining clip for it. Maybe that will solve my problem. I hope so, because we are probably going to get snow tonite.

Thanks, guys.

Kevin

Sep 8, 2006 | 01:18 AM

#11

AlaskaF350PS

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From: Ogden, UT

The clutch switch moves back and forth on the clutch plunger, and rotates about 1/4 inch either direction. It obviously needs to be replaced, but I have a question--is the switch on the pedal plunger the same as the "clutch safety switch"? The last shop indicated that the "retaining clip" was missing from the safety switch. I cannot find a "clutch safety switch" in my CD manual--is it perchance the same as the switch on the clutch plunger under the dash?

Kevin

Sep 8, 2006 | 01:36 AM

#12

kbeefy

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From: Eastern Washington

I only have limited experience w/ superduty clutches, but as I recall there was a plastic 'collar' on the clutch pushrod with a plastic retainer to keep it from falling off. I believe it housed the clutch switches. I don't recall any switches on the pedal assembly, but I was doing a clutch and master cylinder, not a pedal assembly.

I can't imagine that they'd have more than one clutch switch...

Sep 11, 2006 | 03:33 AM

#13

AlaskaF350PS

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From: Ogden, UT

Problem update...FTE comes through again!

Thanks for the help, guys. Replacing the clutch switch fixed the problem--Auto. Idle back in business!!

FTE saved me some more money!

The shop I used to take it to would have charged me about twice what I paid for a new switch, and at least an hour's worth of labor for a 15 minute replacement...probably saved about $300 just on this!

Kevin