1951 Ford F2
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,882
Likes: 3,126
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
You might be pretty hard up to find a replacement. Are you going complete by the numbers restoration, if not, this would be perfect time to swap out the rear axle with a newer pre-'72 axle from a F-250 get better gearing.
Added this:
Contact fellow FTE member Jeff and Nicolle his lastest signature is listing rear axle parts from his '48-50 F-3 for sale. Make sure his parts will fit your truck, Ford changed drums for the F-2 in the mid '51 model year, I'm not sure about the F-3 but since they're basically the same truck I guess they changed the F-3 too. Get detailed measurements.
Another edit:
I saw you don't have enough posts so far to directly PM other FTE members. Just go to this post and post a reply if you're interested:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-progress.html
Added this:
Contact fellow FTE member Jeff and Nicolle his lastest signature is listing rear axle parts from his '48-50 F-3 for sale. Make sure his parts will fit your truck, Ford changed drums for the F-2 in the mid '51 model year, I'm not sure about the F-3 but since they're basically the same truck I guess they changed the F-3 too. Get detailed measurements.
Another edit:
I saw you don't have enough posts so far to directly PM other FTE members. Just go to this post and post a reply if you're interested:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-progress.html
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 299
Likes: 0
From: Mt. Home, ID
I'm going much the route with my F3. I want it to look 1952 when seen driving down the road, but I sure don't want to feel 1952 when behind the wheel. I got real lucky in that most of my rust is where the wood met the metal on the bed. Won't be too hard to patch up. I've got a 1990 5.0 and AOD from a crown vic, a 9" out of a 78 cougar, disc brakes from speedway (5 bolt) and the brake pedal/booster from a 76 F250. I also picked up a toyota box for power steering. I also plan on using it as a truck not a show piece. As of last weekend it is finally a frame on jackstands with a front axle instead of just the frame on jackstands that it's been for the last year. I have the first set of rear springs put back together and the second set is soaking in a box of vinegar/water waiting to be reassembled. Good luck with yours.
Mike
Mike
New User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
If you do go to a later frame. I've written a HUGE article of putting a '51 M-3 on a '78 F-250 frame. You can read it here:
http://www.old-fords.com/frameswap/frame1.htm
Doesn't look to bad does it?
http://www.old-fords.com/frameswap/frame1.htm
Doesn't look to bad does it?
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,882
Likes: 3,126
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
I have no idea. I think Nathan is also a Canuc. Maybe he'll stop by and offer his opinion. If not try to PM him.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,682
Likes: 12
From: Saskatoon SK Canada
Honestly I wouldn't use that frame especially for a 1948-52 truck. Its just way to wide. The body would either be mounted way above the frame or you will be building a new floor for the cab.
I don't know what the regulations are in Ontario but in Sask, for vehicles before 1959 there are no rules on frame modifications. It just has to safely support the vehicles weight.
Quite honestly I don't recommend doing a frame swap. I've found that I would have to make several compromises to make it work properly. I'm very peculiar in how I do things as it has to look like it belongs there or factory. My frame is going to get a complete overhaul and is going to be built from scratch. This way it will fit like a glove and use all factory body mounts. I'll have my rear axle/suspension done next month but I still have lots of preliminary draft work to do for the main frame.
I don't know what the regulations are in Ontario but in Sask, for vehicles before 1959 there are no rules on frame modifications. It just has to safely support the vehicles weight.
Quite honestly I don't recommend doing a frame swap. I've found that I would have to make several compromises to make it work properly. I'm very peculiar in how I do things as it has to look like it belongs there or factory. My frame is going to get a complete overhaul and is going to be built from scratch. This way it will fit like a glove and use all factory body mounts. I'll have my rear axle/suspension done next month but I still have lots of preliminary draft work to do for the main frame.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,682
Likes: 12
From: Saskatoon SK Canada
The frames are pretty much the same. The front suspension is the same under 6900 grw and over 6900 grw is different.
Your still going to run into the biggest issue I did and that is the steering. If you bolt a column directly to the steering box, it will move the steering wheel 3" towards the door. You pretty much have to cut a column in half and run a zig zag steering linkage to make it work.
I'm building a hybrid front suspension using components from 1980-86 F-350 with the 1976-79 I beams. However this is not a bolt in operation as it requires machine work and frame modification.
The other problem is the front tires will stick past the fenders. You will have to widen them at least 2" or find F-7/8 fenders but these still require you to graft in the smaller fender openings as I don't think you'll be running a 40" tire.
What is wrong with the original frame, that your dead set on using a different frame? I'm only continuing the course cause I have too much invested and have luckily came across parts that will make it work.
Your still going to run into the biggest issue I did and that is the steering. If you bolt a column directly to the steering box, it will move the steering wheel 3" towards the door. You pretty much have to cut a column in half and run a zig zag steering linkage to make it work.
I'm building a hybrid front suspension using components from 1980-86 F-350 with the 1976-79 I beams. However this is not a bolt in operation as it requires machine work and frame modification.
The other problem is the front tires will stick past the fenders. You will have to widen them at least 2" or find F-7/8 fenders but these still require you to graft in the smaller fender openings as I don't think you'll be running a 40" tire.
What is wrong with the original frame, that your dead set on using a different frame? I'm only continuing the course cause I have too much invested and have luckily came across parts that will make it work.
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 485
Likes: 2
This is an old thread, but no doubt there will be numerous people who will stumble across it who have the same questions.
It would seem that you have (at least) three approaches for an F2/F3 project:
If you have time/budget constraints, "bobbing" may not be a bad option. They don't look bad if they're done right. I bought a '51 F3 a few years ago that had been bobbed. Unfortunately, the PO had installed a mish-mash of later model bed and fenders. Before I could sort out everything required to put the truck where I wanted it, I ran across an F1 that was much closer to what I wanted so I took the cowardly way out and bought the F1 and sold the F3.
Here are some photos of an F2 that has been bobbed, as you can see it's not a bad looking truck at all. I don't think that most people would realize that it's not a short bed.
Peace,
-DV
It would seem that you have (at least) three approaches for an F2/F3 project:
- Leave the wheelbases as-is and restore it.
- Shorten the frame, replace the bed, fenders as Vern did.
- A third option is to "bob" it, in other words shorten the frame and the bed behind the rear fenders.
If you have time/budget constraints, "bobbing" may not be a bad option. They don't look bad if they're done right. I bought a '51 F3 a few years ago that had been bobbed. Unfortunately, the PO had installed a mish-mash of later model bed and fenders. Before I could sort out everything required to put the truck where I wanted it, I ran across an F1 that was much closer to what I wanted so I took the cowardly way out and bought the F1 and sold the F3.
Here are some photos of an F2 that has been bobbed, as you can see it's not a bad looking truck at all. I don't think that most people would realize that it's not a short bed.
Peace,
-DV
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,882
Likes: 3,126
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
New User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
The frames are pretty much the same. The front suspension is the same under 6900 grw and over 6900 grw is different.
Your still going to run into the biggest issue I did and that is the steering. If you bolt a column directly to the steering box, it will move the steering wheel 3" towards the door. You pretty much have to cut a column in half and run a zig zag steering linkage to make it work.
I'm building a hybrid front suspension using components from 1980-86 F-350 with the 1976-79 I beams. However this is not a bolt in operation as it requires machine work and frame modification.
The other problem is the front tires will stick past the fenders. You will have to widen them at least 2" or find F-7/8 fenders but these still require you to graft in the smaller fender openings as I don't think you'll be running a 40" tire.
What is wrong with the original frame, that your dead set on using a different frame? I'm only continuing the course cause I have too much invested and have luckily came across parts that will make it work.
Your still going to run into the biggest issue I did and that is the steering. If you bolt a column directly to the steering box, it will move the steering wheel 3" towards the door. You pretty much have to cut a column in half and run a zig zag steering linkage to make it work.
I'm building a hybrid front suspension using components from 1980-86 F-350 with the 1976-79 I beams. However this is not a bolt in operation as it requires machine work and frame modification.
The other problem is the front tires will stick past the fenders. You will have to widen them at least 2" or find F-7/8 fenders but these still require you to graft in the smaller fender openings as I don't think you'll be running a 40" tire.
What is wrong with the original frame, that your dead set on using a different frame? I'm only continuing the course cause I have too much invested and have luckily came across parts that will make it work.