water passages
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,351
Likes: 1
From: Escondido, CA
Bottle brushes, long thin flt head screw driver, or just take it to a place to have it hot tanked. The water passages are a pain to manually clean out. On my engine I used a Prestone flush kit with a little added CLR to kick it up a notch. I used it right after the cam was broken in.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,351
Likes: 1
From: Escondido, CA
The chemicals involved will do it. You may want to ask for it to be shot peened as well. I don't have an indepth asnwer for what shot peening is but it is kind of like sand blasting it but with metal *****.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20
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rebuild
Cool, while were on the topic of machine shops, and rebuilds, I was wondering if there are any kits that I should look out for? I'm pretty muck building back to stock, with the exception of the intake and carb. I'm looking at a master kit from larrys performance out of L.A. for $469 which seems like a pretty good deal but I don't want to be rebuilding it again anytime soon.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
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There are shops that can bake the block clean it will come back looking like a new casting. If you find one of these places tape up the block and paint it as soon as possible before oil and rust starts geting in the metals poors.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,351
Likes: 1
From: Escondido, CA
Well before you buy any kits have the block cleaned and checked for bore size. Nothing sucks more then returning a kit because you guessed. I know you are planning to rebuild back to stock but you may want to take the time now to go through and do a few upgrades to the short block while it is apart. Most of them are relatively cheap to do as well. For instance replacing the main bolts with studs. Just little things that will allow you to play with the upper end later if you feel the speed bug.
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