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in need of a oil cooler..I found one on here for 185. does any one know of a better price? maybe one of the sponsors that will give a member a discount?
I'm getting a 203 stat, and a new housing. is there a coolant I can run that don't need additives?
any advise on this replacement job would be helpful and very grateful.
what is wrong with your current cooler? if its jsut leaking at one of the ends there are o-ring that need to be replace unless it is rusted thru on the tube. I think 185 is a good price from when i was pricing mine out. i would check a junk yard. also there is a ford parts web site but i can't remember the address. to replace its easiest to undo the motor mount on the driverside and jcak the engine up a few inches.
as far as coolants the ford gold doesn't need additives as well as others designed for Semi's.
it is just the o- rings but I thought id just go a head and put in a new oil cooler. I have only owned the truck a few months. not sure if the last owner used the additives in there.plus I don't have the tester to make sure the o-rings wont leak after I put them in. I was told that maybe the gold could not be added to my 99. is that true? id like to run that stuff and not half to worry about additives. thanks for the response
i run gold in my 95 with out issue. also the cooler its what will suffer from not having additives. the cylinders and timing cover are what i have heard of getting holes in them from cavitaion. i would save your self the money and just do o-rings
i run gold in my 95 with out issue. also the cooler its what will suffer from not having additives. the cylinders and timing cover are what i have heard of getting holes in them from cavitaion. i would save your self the money and just do o-rings
thanks for the advice. im only taking this apart one time and dont want to wait 3 days for parts..and i im not sure what the inside of it looks like. ive only owned it a few months.. looks rusty and pited on the out side do to road salt. being it is oil and water in there. i thought for 185 bucks id go ahead and change it out. just to be on the safe side...thanks again guys..
I hear ya. mine was leaking but my 95 suffers from michigan winter road salt syndrom also and was flaking rust so i just repalced the whole unit with one i had off a 99 engine cause it wasn't nearly as rusty!
I hear ya we use a lot of salt here in the white mountains of New Hampshire as well. I got an appointment to have under my cab done with line X bed liner. its just starting to spot with surface rust now. figured the truck was worth having it done.
is there a pattern and torque spec. for this oil cooler? how hard does it come out?. is there a chance the bolts might snap off removing it or putting them back in? should I order new bolts to go back in too?
once again thanks a lot for the help.
the bolts in mine came fine. you will also need the 2 metal/rubber gaskets to seal the mounting surface at the block if you don't already have them. i will check torqu when i get to work on monday if someone else hasn't gotten them to you. one of the best ways to get to the front bolts on my 95 was a really long extension thru the wheel well but your superduty may be different. to remove it spin the filter off, disconnect the block heater cord. prior to all that drain the radiator so not so much coolant will come out when you loosen the bolts. when you get the cooler off some coolant might get into the oil so you will probably want to change the oil when your done.