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I did a little research on the 5 1/2 front brake conversion from ECI. I found that you can get much a better deal buying the basic kit and then buying the other parts. The rotors are from a 73'-93'
F-150, autozone quotes them (77' F-150) at $22 and change. While the calipers are from a 71'-76' big GM car, (76' Chevy Carpice Estate Wagon) $12.99 plus a $10.00 core charge. Pads are ranging from $11.00-$50.00. So you can get the whole setup for less then $250 vise the $329 ECI quotes. Hope this helps some of you out there who are concidering the drum to rotor swap. Also it helps to buy a little at a time vise the whole thing is you want to spread out the cost a little, like myself who is on a tight budget. I have a few things I need to do while I ma setting up the conversion.
Thanks for the info. I have my frame reassembled and I'm ready to start on the brakes. I was considering the basic kit, but I wasn't sure on the exact parts I would need. Any mods needed, or was it a true bolt on? A little work dosen't bother me, just wondering...
According to the company, it's a direct bolt on. They supply the caliper mount, bearing spacers, and hardware with the basic kit. It doesn't however state that the bearing themselves come with it. So that may be another thing to tach on to the total cost.
Mike,
I have the ECI kit already, but do not have the power booster. I have a '63 Ford and am looking for a booster that would bolt up using the same holes on my firewall. What have you done or are doing about that issue on your truck?
JL
Jim,
I haven't gotten a booster for my truck as of yet. I found that the early to mid 70's booster look like a direct bolt on. Like I said in an earlier post, I have a few things to do before I dive in to the brake conversion.
Mark,
Thanks for the info. What I have is a booster from an '86 Trans Am because it was free. I had to cut off the fixed bolts and then drill holes where the bolt heads remained. The top two line up with the old master cylinder bolts I removed, but the bottom two will need to have holes drilled in the firewall to work. I am not ready to do that as yet. I will still look around and see if I can find a booster with the same bolt pattern. I will let you know if I come up with something and hope you will do the same. Thanks, Jim
JL
I thought most brake boosters were made by Bendix? Well if so you may be able to get by with the mounting bracket from a truck. Make sure you get the proportioning valve too. I think there many be a law for some states that prohibits the sale of them. But you never know. Also make sure you get the pedal rod. The manual brake push rod I believe is too short.
Mark,
Not sure about your comment about Bendix, how does that enter into this? When I got the booster from the Trans AM I did get all the stuff, including the push rod. If I am able to use it, how does one know if the thing works? It appears a good fit, clearences look good and all seems OK with the possible exception of the holes I would have to drill. I don't want to drill new holes and find out the system doesn't work. My friend who gave me the unit drove the car to his house and said the brakes work. Any suggetions? Thanks, Jim
JL
Jim, What I was refering to is that Bendix made boosters for most of the cars on the road today. That said, the mounting lugs and such should bolt on. Also if you look back at the ECI web site they do sell an adapter for mounting differant boosters to your existing firewall bracket if I am not mistaken. I think it was under their brake accesories section.