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Knowing how much of a tightwad Old Henry was it always amazes me to see how difficult it is to assemble one of these front ends. I spent a long, long hot day several years ago trying to extract a 49 grill from a truck in a wrecking yard (the truck also had a push bar on it to further complicate things)
A few months ago I decided to install the grill into my front clip....ugh. Its almost as if the grill has to be magically help in place out in thin air and all of the rest of the parts hung onto it.
NOTE: to ease the assembly one might consider the careful addition of a frosty beverage or two to the installation proceedings
With the simple ladder frame design Ford used the frame is able to twist quite a bit, so the body has to allow for that movement without being torn apart. Ol Henry figured out that the easiest way to accomplish that was to hang the entire front clip from the radiator mount horseshoe and rubber mount the horseshoe right in the center of the frame. Therefore the trucks were assembled by first installing the radiator mount then hang everything else from it building from the inside out. The fenders were the last pieces to go on. Us hardheads want to do it differently so we try to install the grill without removing the fenders and try to align the sheet metal after discarding the firewall to fender support rods or not replacing the support isolator pad or verifying the mount is square and level with the cowl first.
Hi Guys does mid-fiftys have a web site? I am in the Uk and Hot Rodding a 55F100. I bought some new hood hinges. The hood of course wont come down at the rear without physically pushing them down. I got someone I know to get me some hood bolts but the shouldered part does not fit inside the hood hinge? Also the guy never got me any coil springy washer thingies ;o)...
The 53-55 hood hinges used a smaller diameter shoulder bolt than the 56, otherwise they are the same so get whichever fits the hinges you have. They also have slightly oversized threaded portion ones if the nuts in the hood are stripped. Try adjusting the latch striker at the front of the truck more forwards to help pull the rear corners down. Make sure no one has wound the hinge springs tighter as well, they should barely hold the hood open.
Cheers AX, I think I may have the 56 ones as the shoulder is bigger than the hinge hole. Guy was trying to do me a favour so I wont gripe ;o)
Thanks for the link Stephen. I sahll go and order some now..
I have front fenders in glass, and if I had to do it over, I'd assemble the front fenders, valance, upper grille piece, and inner fenders as a unit off the truck. I'd make sure everything fit right, take it back apart, THEN get it painted. I'd install it as a single piece.
Can you imagine installing and tightening all those bolts on the assembly line, under time pressure???
I tried adding to my post last night but the site kept crashing.
I'd also suggest taking your hinges off the truck, remove the springs (they should be able to be removed by hand once the hinges are off the truck if not overwound) and check the pivot under the springs for free operation. This pivot is critical to proper operation but is often stiff or frozen, even on new hinges. I posted some pictures in my "extras" gallery showing the pivot I'm talking about. While they are apart lube all the pivots with some white lithium grease to keep them working freely.
AX is correct in that new hinges are often extremely tight. They must be very free. I couldn't get a set of new ones to close properly and ended up putting the old ones on which work perfectly.
Cheers,
I tried adding to my post last night but the site kept crashing.
I'd also suggest taking your hinges off the truck, remove the springs (they should be able to be removed by hand once the hinges are off the truck if not overwound) and check the pivot under the springs for free operation. This pivot is critical to proper operation but is often stiff or frozen, even on new hinges. I posted some pictures in my "extras" gallery showing the pivot I'm talking about. While they are apart lube all the pivots with some white lithium grease to keep them working freely.
Chuck, a quick tutorial on hinge/spring removal and re-installation, por favor??
mainly, is spring removal hazardous to ones health, potentially?
Only if someone has overwound it. When it is off the truck, you should be able to remove it with your fingers by unhooking the end. Grab the spring with one hand like it is the lid on a jar and turn it to tighten it a small amount. With the other hand unhook the end of the spring out of the notch. If it is too tight to do this way someone has been futzing with it. In that case clamp a pair of visegrips on the tail of the spring near the end to use as a handle and pry the hook out of the notch with a flat screwdriver. When replacing the spring hook the center back in such a position as to allow you to use the jartop technique to rehook the spring, it should not require any tools to put it back.
I got some bolts with the shoulder on them sent from someone I know in California but the shoulder section is to large a diameter to fit in the hinge. I see the 56 F100 has a different part number are they larger diameter shoulders?
I have ordered a set with springy washers from mid-fiftys so hopefully when they arrive the job will be sorted. If not then I will have to dip into th epaint job budget and get a front tilt kit ;o( Thanks for your advise guys.
raerjim I am not sure what you meen? Its a 1955 F100
1953-55 used a smaller diameter shoulder on the bolts than did 56. The hinges are interchangable between the years you just have to match the right sized shoulderbolts to the hinges you are using. They should only be tightened snug, so be sure to safety wire them so they don't vibrate loose.
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