Well right when I try getting out of A/C work it pulls me back in .

The 1996 is ok now the 97 Star front A/C only is losing refrigerant. I noticed this a few days ago when at idle I barely got any cool air but when I started driving it got considerably cooler. Probably due to the compressor pumping more refrigerant at higher RPM. I checked under the hood and not only was the accumulator not accumulating moisture on it the evap inlet was cooler then the outlet which signifies low refrigerant charge. Here we go with the superheat condition again .

I UV dyed the system and found again like on the 96 a leaky discharge line replaced it along with the suction line since it was an assembly (I ordered the hose from federated this time) I also replaced the orifice and the accumulator and the o-rings on the connections.

Had the system evaced and refilled and I've been good for about a week today I noticed that the system is not performing well. Signifying I missed another leak.

I have already replaced the suction and discharge lines the liquid line showed no leaks. However I didn't do a thorough check of the condenser or evaporator.

Do you guys have any tips on checking the condenser and where common leak spots are? I assume removing the front grill will aid in getting a better look.

I don't want to rule out the evaporator either but it's going to be a pain to remove the accumulator again to get a good look at it.

Whats the primary cause of evaporator failure the refrigerant is at a relatively low pressure plus its cool unlike the condenser where the pressure is high and the refrigerant is hot? Can the liquid refrigerant cause corrosion and thats what causes evaporator failure?

I'm going to hook up my manifold gauge set tomorrow to check to make sure that the compressor is working properly so I can rule that out.

 

Look in the back of the compressor where the manifold is bolted on. The O-rings there has to be perfectly clean, and of the right size.

What about the valve stems on the high and low sides? As far as evaporator, I have yet to see one spring a leak, so I wouldn't worry about it too much.

However, for whatever it's worth, condenser leaks are pretty common for Ford, according to my local A/C guru. My brother's Explorer kept losing refrigerant like that and we had to replace the condenser after we exhausted all other possibilities, and it worked. But if you UV dyed the system, wouldn't a condenser leak show up too?

 

All I did when I replaced the lines is shone the light through the fins on the condenser through the grill and moved on I assume that was nowhere near thorough enough.

I want to try and do an inspection without removing it first if it is faulty I will have it discharged and replace it but I don't want to remove it first and find out its not bad.

I guess I should have known if the discharge line was leaking what it discharged into should have been thoroughly checked as well but the 96 got me cocky.

Where should I be looking with the UV dye on the condenser? Tonight I will remove the front grill so I can get a better look at it. Are there any common spots where these condensers leak.

Also I've read in my A/C book when a condenser is replaced you should add 2 oz of PAG oil since the old oil clings to the old condenser and you are removing oil when you remove it. However I have it in a bottle where do I add it the accumulator before the recharge?

Thanks for any help you can offer.

 

small leakers of less than 1 oz per month leave almost no oil residue so no dye residue....
try taking to a/c that has latest hi tech R134 sniffer if you are desparate to find leak or just top every 6 months or so

look at fittings and tube end welds

 

Thanks for the tip the system lost almost all of its cooling efficiency in about a week so I wouldn't say its a slow leak. It probably lost from a quarter to a half of the charge to cool this inefficiently.

Well I'm off to check the condenser hopefully I will find something on it cracked or leaking.

If all else fails I'll take your advice and find someone with an electronic leak detector. Which will hopefully work better.

 

leak should look like a green blood bath in compressor oil and dye

more leak detection info click

best low cost DIY R134 sniffer click

 

If there was a leak you would have caught it with a vacuum test ..NO. If it leaked out in a week you'll have oil mess somewhere.


Dick

 

Well I just purchased a new compressor, condenser, liquid line, and evaporator core. After this the system will be completely rebuilt oddly enough while I haven't looked at it yet I think the leak is in the evaporator.

When the AC was still working I was smelling an odd smell from the vents it seemed familiar but I couldn't place it.

Later I remembered the smell it was the smell of the UV dye. Plus when I was driving I noticed white vapor leave the vents which is a sign to me that the refrigerent vapor leaked from the evaporator and the blower blew it out the vents.

 

after all the new parts are in, a quick vacuum leakdown test will tell all
evaporator hose connections?

 

It wouldn't be the hose connections if he saw the vapor in the car. The connections are outside the evaporator housing under the hood......