Should I fear my aluminum wheels also?

 

Only if they're really PIZZED OFF at you! Jag

 

It is not a question of fear, more something to watch for - look for stress cracks to start.

You may never have a problem - but in service with heavy loads and high air pressure, aluminum wheels are apt to split. I even split the steel wheel on my 3/4 ton one time - a couple of tons of rocks in the box and a washboard gravel road.

 

The wheels are typically overdesigned, but I have seen several lightweight ones break while autocrossing them, early RX7 wheels are especially bad. Problem is that unlike steel, aluminum doesn't give much warning by starting to show cracks, Aluminum just fails catastrophically. I don't fear spacers since they are clamped between the wheel and hub and carry no significant stress. In adapters the wheel studs are pressed into the aluminum only and are stressed on every start, stop and turn you make. Don't shoot the messenger...

 

Have used spacers and adapters many times over the years with not one problem.

 

Some are luckier than others, I was just giving my reasons why I would not do it. Then again I wouldn't jump out of a perfectly good airplane, but I do scuba dive with 50' whale sharks, nor would I jump a motorcycle over 4 running helicopters like some guy did on TV the other nite, but I have done hang gliding off a 13 story high sand dune. Each has to weigh the risks and make their own choices as to what's acceptable.

 

Ax,

I would never use them in high stress conditions like any type of racing or high performance. My use of adapters have always been in cruiser type vehicles with little to no stress on the drive train. I do not see them as a risk at all in my type of driving. I also do not jump off 13 story sand dunes or swim with sharks but to each his own...

Randy,

Summit has the adapters you need. Part number TRD-7076 by Trans-Dapt for $39.99 a pair.

Vern

 

The spacers in the picture might bother me because the APPEAR to be cast aluminum. I have used billet adapters which are machined from solid aluminum and am not at all concerned. Dodge uses them on some of the later 1 ton truck front hubs. Apparently they use one hub and can accomodate the regular wheel or the offset dually wheel. depending on the remainder of the truck. The next time you see a late model Dodge one ton Dually truck with the front wheels off, take a look. Many of the billet adapters are used for off-raod racing, etc and are very strong.
I have a set of them on my '49 Mercury to be able to run my 2005 Mustang wheels. I have no worries at all about them. As I said though, they are made a lot diffently than the ones in the picture. Pick up an issue of Muscle Mustang and look at the "Maximum Motorsports" ad. These people build racing Mustangs. Their adapters are not cheap, but very strong.

 

Thanks again guys for the response. I will nurse my truck along until the winter comes when I can either swap out the rear end or find someone who can make non-reversed Gennie style solid wheels with a 3.5 backspacing. No luck yet though. Most of the manufacturers I have talked to said 4.0 is the minimum without going to a reversed wheel.

Donald

 

Here is an alternative for finding the wheels you are looking for. Basically, build your own. I think this link was posted here sometime back but here it is again. Its interesting reading.

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...lies/index.php

Bobby

 

I agree with Randy and Axracer.
I've used spacers before, but wouldn't use the adapters for the reasons they listed.
I would do one of the following before using adapters :
1. Use a spacer with longer studs if necessary. You are limited to what spacer and or stud lengths are available. If you must go wider then go to option 2.
2. Get some new wheels with the correct backspacing. Chek to see if you can get a wheel with the correct backspacing you need. You need to consider what the wheel will look like, i.e.will the wheel look funny with the hub deeply recessed. If you can't find a good looking fit then go to option 3.
3. Swap out the rearend. For cost reasons I would select this option only if above options will not work.
Bruce

 

[QUOTE=brucewolff]I agree with Randy and Axracer.
I've used spacers before, but wouldn't use the adapters for the reasons they listed.
I would do one of the following before using adapters :
1. Use a spacer with longer studs if necessary. You are limited to what spacer and or stud lengths are available. If you must go wider then go to option 2. I am limited here2. Get some new wheels with the correct backspacing. Chek to see if you can get a wheel with the correct backspacing you need. You need to consider what the wheel will look like, i.e.will the wheel look funny with the hub deeply recessed. If you can't find a good looking fit then go to option 3. This to me is the best option but Wheel Vintique often mentions reversed which I don't think would allow me to run trim rings and I am not sure how it would look anybody have photos of reversed wheels with TRIM RINGS please send3. Swap out the rearend. For cost reasons I would select this option only if above options will not work. [B]I need a rearend that is 60.5 to 61.5 with a 4.5 BPattern. 61" would be optimal in looking at the Rear End tech article in the reference Tread it looks like the 71-73' Mustang/Torino rear end is the way. Has anyone used a 8.8 out of a 79-93 Mustang that had the 5 lug axle? IF so how wide is it? Thanks Donald

 

You can see some Wheel Vintiques full reversed wheels in my gallery. They are chrome, but I used to have nonchrome reversed, with trim rings. Fronts are 6 inch wide and rears are 7 inch. Backspacing is 2.25 in.
I do still have a couple of the unchromed reversed on hand, one mounted with spare tire. They are a different style with smoother inside. If you would like a picture I'll get one to you.