I have a fuel leak I believe it's my fuel pump, (i.e. fuel in valley, draining down back of engine.) Problem is I cannot locate the leak using a small mirror. I cleaned and dried the valley, let the truck sit and idle, and sat on top of the engine for an hour watching. The depressions just before and after the fuel pump began collecting diesel fuel, but again I couldn't find the leak using a mirror and light. I checked the fuel lines and they are dry. Without seeing the leak, should I just buy the fuel pump and replace it, or should I look at something else? Are there any tricks to get a mirror underneath the fuel pump to see the leak?

 

its got a weep hole under there. you need to replace. i will get you the parts numbers shortly.

 

Perfect timing Groundpounder! You just saved me a bunch of typing. I was just crawling around the top of motor today and found the same exact thing. I didn't realize thats where the fuel pump is.

97, I'll be keeping an eye out for those numbers as well. Any tricks to changing the pump?

This site is the best free tool any PSD owner could ask for! Gotta love it!

Thanks guys

 

Fuel Line Seals (seals lines at head inlet fittings)
(Ford) F4TZ-9C387-A (94-97)

Fuel Hose, BLUE (Aeroquip FC498-06) 3 HOSES TOTAL ONE OF THESE PACKAGES COMES WITH 2 HOSES. YOU NEED ALL 3!!!!!!
(Ford) F4TZ-9324-CA, 3" Long lift pump to filter inlet
(Ford) F4TZ-9324-DA Shorter than above, Filter outlet to High Pressure (piston) pump inlet


Fuel Pump
(International) 1824415-C93
(Ford) F6TZ-9350-A
(NAPA, Kragen/Parts America, AutoZone etc) 61067


Fuel Pump Banjo Gaskets
(Ford) F4TZ-9A375-A
(International) 1820650C1



OK FOLKS LISTEN PLEASE...


if you got a california truck well your suckin..


once you have the fuel pump loose, banjo bolt out and blue hoses disconnected. get a 1/2 drive ratchet and 24 mm socket. turn motor over by that until it lift up the pump from its seat. lift straight out. you dont want to drop the tappet. use the manual in my signature also.

i think i paid 20.00 bucks or so for the combo wrench from sears. you will need it buy it.
turbo removal not required unless you got a cali truck.

if you think you got one confirm by looking at my pics album of my dads truck pictures. that should clear it up.

good luck fellas. definitely not hard just time consuming and a sore belly. not worth paying for though!!!!!!


ok i will get the instructions off baz's site and post em as i dont feel like typing that much right now sorry.

Lift Pump Removal
This service is not difficult when working on a Federal-emissions F-series. The intake Y-pipe and fuel filter housing need to be removed first. Then, using a 1 1/4" box wrench (having two different wrenches works best because of differing angles on the box ends give you a wider working range) or socket on a flex-head ratchet, loosen the banjo bolt fitting at the rear of the pump. Take care not to drop or damage the steel sealing washers. After removing the banjo bolt, remove the pump mounting bolts and lift the pump straight out of its hole. If the pump seems stuck, use a rolling-head type pry bar (lady-slipper, duck bill, crowsfoot) to pry it up straight. Pulling staight up will prevent the pump push rod from catching and falling back down into the engine requiring engine removal to retrieve the rod. On California-emission vehicles the banjo fitting is too far under the turbo and fuel line damper to reach with a wrench and access is restricted for using a socket (you may get the bolt out, but good luck getting the it back in). In this case and with the Econoline due to its body design, it is necessary to remove the turbocharger to remove the lift pump instead of the fuel filter housing. In all cases, when installing the new lift pump, lube the o-ring on the pump shank with dielectric grease and start the banjo bolt a couple of threads before installing a tightening the mounting bolts. Again, take care not to damage the sealing washers. Once the pump is secured to the block, tighten the banjo bolt to 40 ft/lbs.

 

Where is this weep hole located on the front or back side of pump? Can this leak get worse over time or with increased engine rpm? Is there any upgrade pumps?

 

Weep hole is on passenger side, front of pump (toward filter canister), almost right next to the hold down bolt.

 

Thank you for the p/n's.
Was looking at my hoses today and decided I better order up some replacements.

Is this all of the hoses that are needed in the "valley"?
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Fuel Hose, BLUE (Aeroquip FC498-06) 3 HOSES TOTAL ONE OF THESE PACKAGES COMES WITH 2 HOSES. YOU NEED ALL 3!!!!!!
(Ford) F4TZ-9324-CA, 3" Long lift pump to filter inlet
(Ford) F4TZ-9324-DA Shorter than above, Filter outlet to High Pressure (piston) pump inlet

 

Groundpounder, this seems to be a common complaint with the '96- '97.
If you don't mind a couple of hours, pull the fuel cannister and check the bottom. They seem to have a problem with electrolysis and the aluminum cannister. If it has holes, it starts slow and gets progressively worse.
Rockauto.com has a replacement that is a perfect fit and comes with a new filter, wiring, IFR. $261 includes shipping. If that's the trouble.

 

I just bought a couple feet of fuel hose at the local Napa...

 

If you have the cash that sounds reasonable. Much much cheaper to JB Weld the inside and outside of the canister....about $5 bucks.

 

BIGRED 7.3L Good catch. I should have mentioned that was my original fix. It lasted about 4K and started to leak again. The drawback to electrolysis is that it is like cancer. If you don't get it all, it comes back.
Sooner or later the can will have to be replaced. I did have 300,000 miles on it before it gave out though. Love a Ford.

 

i had the same issue i hd a cracked main line to my ip it was cracked on the bottom and ive heard they usually crack on the bottom

 

you are a decade late

OP hopefully fixed it back in 2006