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If my fingers were broken how could I be typing? With my nose? I don't think so. Haven't you ever heard of helping some people out when they have questions? Obviously some other people here have, and I thank them for that. I've never built a motor or even really tuned a carb, so you can bet there will be some dumb questions. No one else seems to mind them. Also, nothing says that you HAVE to help me. It's totally optional for you to post back or not. I really don't care, there are plenty of people here that know what I need to know and are more than willing to help.
I guess you missed the " " in my previous post, either that or you have no sense of humor.
I guess you missed the " " in my previous post, either that or you have no sense of humor.
Yea, I guess I did at that. Sorry, it seemed like you were being a bit harsh with me, so I was just returning the favor. I do know how to run a calculator (and too good for my liking - I don't really like math) , however I don't have any current parts catalogs to get prices from, and with dial-up it's way faster to look through 3 different magazines than to look at their websites and find prices. I'll order some though (give me something to read in school).
Anyway, like you said, $84 pistions and $125 cam, around $300 for an intake. That alone puts me at $509. I still need a carb (I'll get that locally), all my gaskets, bearings, rings, push rods, valve springs, and adjustable rockers. I'm also not totally sure what head gaskets to get, what valve springs I'd need, etc. I figure if I can get what I want for $2000, I'll be really happy. However, I have some work to do on this truck before I just go and dump that much money into it.
Sounds like someone's under some stress
You bet I am, but it's mostly from myself. There's a really clean, original 78 GMC on evil bay right now. Otherwise my bud's 4 banger in his S-10 needs rebuilt. I don't really want to do a GM product, but when it comes down to it, $1000 will make me a good runnin' 350. I know it's , but that's where I'm coming from.
You can look up prices on Summit Racing, Jeg's, Autozone, Advance Auto and probably a dozen other sites. Or just find a donor vehicle or a complete running 390 to swap out for yours. I've got one 390 short block that needs a good home and parts to build another. Just hard to find a local buyer to avoid shipping costs.
I say order from Summit. I've never had a problem with them. Also, if you order a certain amount, shipping will be free for ya. Plus, if this is your first purchase with them, I think you'll get yerself a free hat er something.
If you're willing to make some compromises then you can build a 390 for well under $2k....maybe even under $1k. Drop the $300 intake and find a stock 4 barrel 390 intake....much cheaper. If this is a school project then you may be able to do or get done the head work and any necessary machining and save $ too. For headers you may be able to find some used ones. You don't have to go all out to get a reasonable performing 390. Raising the compression ratio is a must...you can do that with the 360 pistons...then just adding a stock 4 barrel intake, used carb. and headers will give you a good performing engine.
I'd say shop around for another complete car 390. That'll get you the 4BBL manifold, high compression heads, and a decent cam to start with. Your typical car 390 runs about 10.5:1 and puts down around 330HP/425lbs. The last one I picked up I got lucky on. It was a recent rebuild that has CJ heads, PI rods, an "S" manifold, and a cam comparable to the 1961 PI cam. By knowing what I was looking at, i worked the guy down to $100 from the $250 he was asking (it woulda been a steal either way )
I won't say that they're easy to come by, but if you have time this is the way to go. That way you have a more solid base to start from and you don't have to have the motor out of your truck until swap time comes around.
Also then if (God forbid) something goes wrong on startup, you have another motor to throw in there while you figure it all out.
390 2 bbl and 4 bbl heads are the same castings. From 68-70 they're the same as the pickup D2TE's in terms of chambers. Not all car 390's are high compression. For the most part the 4 bbl engines were, some 2 bbls also (Merc's). The difference is in the pistons. Put flat tops in a 70's pickup 390 and wa-la , you've got a high compression 390.
Well If your trying to do this under a grand and want something halfway new? By yourself a remanufactured short block...Put the heads on it and Intake and go!!
JMO...
Russ
Last edited by RapidRuss; Aug 24, 2006 at 05:24 AM.
OK fellas, this is kind of good advice that everyone always brags about here. Thanks
Now, lets make sure I've got this straight.
360 pistons for good compression
stock intake
good, used carb
headers
get a points eliminator kit for my dizzy and coil to go with
do a bit of head work
adj. rockers
pushrods
On the rockers the stock type should work right? What years came with them? Also, what else do I need for valvetrain compnents?
Also do the homework on those 360 pistons to make sure they're what you want. Pin heights vary amoung all pistons and mfg's. Block deck is 10.17", rods are 6.49" add these plus 1/2 the stroke and the pin height of the pistons you're looking at to see how close to the deck they come at TDC. You want them as close to about -.010 to zero deck as you can for maximum compression and quench. At the same time you don't want a set that sticks up out of the hole at TDC.
Which brings up a good point. Do all blocks, or at least, of all blocks of the same year, have the same deck height? Do trucks and passenger-car blocks have a different deck height?
I've heard certain things here, but this could be part of the FAQ...
And what will this do for you? What if they have cheated and overbuilt there trucks more than you? Can you not see the foolishness in such a persuit? Character is what makes a man, not a big toy...
Originally Posted by jseim44
I also want to put the hurt on alot the Chevy and ricer boys in my town.
jake
Something tells me you're not 17. Believe me, if I was worried about them being more built than me and having the biggest/baddest toy, I wouldn't be trying to do this on a budget . Also, I'm used to losing (come on.....who's idea was it to put a 4.6 in a 4x4 ex cab? ).
On a more serious note......when I build this, whatever it is is whatever it is. It doesn't matter how many races I win or loose (I don't ever remember the last time I really raced someone, so it's not like I'm one of those idiots doing it all the time) because it will be better than it is right now (stock as a rock baby!!!!)
Also, thanks for pointing out the compression height on the pistons and deck height, etc. I've been doing a little looking, and will continue to look for piston specs. It looks like 1.795 will put me .010 in the hole. (See....I CAN run a calculator )
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