Last September I purchased a 2001 Ford Escape for my son's 16th birthday. It has 51,000 miles.

Recently, he has been experiencing difficulty starting the car - once it has been driven. He can leave it in the garage all night and it will start from cold without a problem. But, once he leaves the house and parks it and attempts to start it again, he experiences problems.

The car will not completely start with full power. It seems to be running in a low gear that will allow him to shift from park to drive, but he cannot rev the engine. Once in drive, he can move about 20 feet before the steering locks and the power is lost. He removes the key from the ignition and attempts to restart again. This process can continue 2-3 times before the car will completely start with full power.

I have taken it to a Ford dealer - they could not diagnose a problem. I took it an independent who could also not diagnose a problem.

Anyone else ever experience this or do you have any suggestions?

 

...Welcome to Ford Truck Enthusiasts!

See you on the boards. ….

 

I have an '02 and when it was having trouble starting around the same mileage as this, It was the Idle air control valve. It did not throw any codes, but they are notorious for this. Keep in mind I am not a mechanic but I always like to try the simple things first. You can get the valve at your local parts store for around 65-70$ maybe cheaper and it is easy to install. I am not sure about the loss of power. When mine went bad it would not hardly start at all. Hope this helps. Anybody else have any ideas?????

 

your two most possible problems are...

Mass Air Flow sensor

or fuel pump.

An idle control valve typically won't cause a problem during acceleration. I had an escape once with the same exact symptoms with a dead fly stuck to the mass air flow filaments (and no codes were set). I cleaned the bug parts off and it was fine after that.

When it's acting up, shut if off, unplug the mass air flow sensor and then drive it... see if the problems are still present. If it's better... shut if off. DO NOT START THE CAR A SECOND TIME WITH THE MASS AIR FLOW UNPLUGGED, as it will set off the check engine light if you do. Remove the two MAF screws and take a close look at the elements. Look for dirt or debris or grease and use rubbing alcohol and a q-tip LIGHTLY to clean it.. then reinstall.

If the problems are still present I think a fuel pressure test will be in order. Good thing is the fuel pump has an access panel under the left rear seat so you won't have to drop the tank to replace it.

Good luck

 

This is great information. As soon as my son gets up, I'll put him to work on the problem. I'm going to look like such a smart mom, particulaly if this works. Thanks! I'll get back to you.
Patricia

 

I seem to have the same problem and would like to follow your suggestion. Please advise the locations of the MASS AIR FLOW and FUEL PUMP so that I can try both if one doesn't help. Thanks. TDoan

 

The mass air flow sensor is just a few inches from the air filter. CRC makes a good cleaner specifically made for MAF sensors.

The fuel pump is in the gas tank. Not a trivial item such as the MAF. There is an odometer test mode that will show your fuel pump pressure. If you decide to test it first, let us know and I'll dig up which "test" shows the pressure and the value mine reads. The odometer test mode shows a few interesting tidbits.

The constant issue on a warm start reminds me of a vapor lock issue I had on a Datsun back in the 70's. Way too many years ago for me to remember the fix. I could have sworn it was an IAC valve or fuel pump issue.

 

Thank you. Yes, I plan to test it and would appreciate any advises. TD

 

I've gained slightly more information since my initial question. It seems like the truck isn't getting sufficient fuel to either turn over completely or remain running once started. This is a sporadic problem. Can you let me know about the odometer test modes and value mine reads?

 

I dug up the test mode codes and the "FP" isn't fuel pressure. It's fuel level. The problem does sound like an IAC valve though assuming it doesn't have 100k miles on the original fuel filter. A fuel pump shows to be about $300 from Ford and 3 hours of labor so not a trivial task or cost without a real diagnostic. In theory a faulty fuel pump or related item would throw a code in the P1230 - P1250 range.

Since I've posted the codes, here are the details of entering test mode:
1) Put key in ignition. Do not start the engine!
2) Hold down the odometer button and continue holding down.
3) Turn key on (all accessories) but do not start.
4) After a few seconds the odometer should say "gauge" or "gage".
5) This begins the process. Push the odometer button once to advance to the next reading.

Note that on some models such as my 05 Escape, it has a few extra tests. This test works on most recent Fords (years unknown). My son's 2000 Focus shows different tests too. To stop the test or reset, just turn the key off.

2001 Escape

Seq...Display.....Description
=======================================
1.....GAGE........Full deflection sweep
2.....all.........Odometer segment check
3.....bulb........Warning light check
4.....r...........ROM level
5.....NR..........ROM level and type
6.....EE..........EE level
7.....DT..........Manufacture date
8.....CF1.........1st byte configuration setting
9.....CF2.........2nd byte configuration setting
10....CF3.........Not used
11....CF4.........Not used
12....CF5.........NVM configuration
13....DTC ####....Cluster diagnostic trouble codes
14....E ####......Speed MPH
15....####........Speed KPH
16....t ####......Tach RPM
17....F ###.......Fuel level ratio
18....FP ###......Fuel level
19....### C.......Coolant temperature degrees Celsius
20....odo ###.....Odometer input
21....tr..........Trip odometer miles
22....Ebd.........ABS EBD status
23....ABS.........ABS TT status
24....bAt ##.#....Charging system voltage
25....HSd.........High voltage shutdown status
26....tnS.........TNS switch input
27....d ###.......Dimming switch input
28....rhS ##......Dimming value
29....iin.........Ignition key-in status
30....HLP.........Headlight switch status
31....door........Door ajar switch status
32....Stbt........Seat belt status
33....FF0G........Front foglight status
34....rF0G........Rear foglight status
35....F0GF........Foglight relay status
36....Prnd........Gear selector display value
37....PaR.........Park interlock solenoid status
38....Cr..........Run/Start sense circuit check
39....AC..........Run/Acc sense circuit check
40....ArbC........Airbag chime status
41....Ch..........Last/current chime source
42....CHE ##......MIL input
43....LCL -X......Low coolant level switch
44....CS XX.......Charging system status
45....thFt........Theft indicator light
46....od..........Overdrive-off status
47....CC..........Not used
48....PA-PD.......Port A-D readings
49....PE0-PE7.....Port E0-E7 readings
50....PF-PH.......Port F-H readings

 

I have a 2001 Ford Escape XLT and my mechanic can't seem to fix the coldstart. Once its warmed up, its fine, he's replaced coils, gaskets, etc and it still sputters/stalls when it cold. Could it be something other than mechanical?

 

r we all havin the same probs with this. My 02 would self accelerate (remember this thread) and then the stumble idle (one more thread) now it does this cold start thing. Runs great one time then putputput... It died on my wifey and finally threw a code. Didn't have the means to check them at the time. Replaced the upper and lower (per info I have read here) and found my PCV was frozen solid, thawed that out, checked it, fine, ran great five miles, then putputput. WOT and only 1100 RPM. Cleared the codes, ran two miles, died, rubber mallet (with ease) to the IAC, stumbled it home. Now doesn't start. The codes were lean banks, both sides. TPS, IAC or is my fuel filter plugged? don't have the means to check rail pressure either. Is there a bench test for resistance on the IAC? What is the open/closed resistance of the TPS? Help me please...............

 

I have a very very weird problem and makes absolutely no sense, even mechanics I pay to look at it just don't really know for sure what it is. Basically on a cold start, it will start up right away, but then act like a lawn mower when you try to run it with the choke on. After I rev it up and hold the rpm's at least at 1000, it clears up and then runs fine after it has been running for awhile. Then it will start up and idle etc.. the rest of the day just fine, till the next morning when I go start it up again. What started this whole thing was changing out the spark plugs. We change all the spark plugs and gapped them all to ford specs. We noticed there was oil leaking into the spark plug holes while we were doing this. So we put new valve cover seals in and it no longer leaks oil into the holes. As a cause of the oil leakage, it clogged up my cats and caused the check engine light to come on. Took it to a auto shop. They gapped the spark plugs correctly and hammered on the cats. Escape now runs fine for a month. Then the statup problem starts. Check engine light still on. Now, I refuse to believe the clogged cats would be causing it to choke on startup, because the car runs fine once it has been running for awhile. The spark plugs aren't mis-firing because again, it runs fine once warmed up. Also it is not leaking oil into the spark holes anymore and the oil that had leaked down in there should now be burned out long ago. So we narrowed it down to either the mass air flow sensor, the IAC, TP or the O2 sensors. Anyone have a guess?

Jason

 

Not an Escape, I do have a 2002 model, but our old Ford Contour did the same exact thing. It would cold start fine the after it was warm not run well. Also had problems with acting like it was choked.

I changed the fuel pump and fuel filter and it cured the problem. I had the car another 20k or 30k more and traded it for our current Escape.

I had changed the fuel filter first and it helped but still not perfect. When I talked to our fleet mechanic at work he told me to change the fuel pump. That cured it.

He told me 99% of the time pumps work or they don't. But occasionally they will just put out the volume needed after they the pump gets warm and will cause this problem. It is rare but it happens.

 

Cool thank you very much. I will give that a try. Where is the fuel pump located on the ford escape. Is it under the fuel tank like most cars?

Jason