I am having the same kInd of problem, it wont fire over at all its been 2days.I changed the fuel filter. I never really paid attentionn weather I heard the fuel pump hum before, I know I dont hear it now, even have the backseat up and accessed the pump.

 

Not to hex ya, but it could be a combination of things, as opposed to one thing causing the problems.

It could be a problem with the transmission, and separately, their could exist a vacuum leak on the manifold, or trouble with one of the sensors.. Like the IAC, Crankshaft Position sensor, etc.

There is also a shift sensor/mechanism that attaches to the transmission, it is a sensor which tells the computer the position of the transmission. This could be acting up as well.

 

There could also be a hole in the PCV hose which connects to the plenum - this is one of the most common problems.

 

HI, we just purchased a 2004 Escape 3 weeks ago. Has a v6 with 122000 milesand it is a front wheel drive vehicle. It starts fine every morning and sometimes fails to start when warm. Has done this once 3 weeks ago and 2 times today. Vehicle was driven an hour today, shut off, then driven another 15 minutes, shut off and it failed to start 20 minutes later. It will try to start and will climb to about 1500 RPM's then shut back down. If I feather the gas pedal, it may keep running a bit and I almost have to do a nuetral bomb drop to get it going. Once it decides to run, like on the highway, it runs great and acts like a brand new SUV.I am afraid of tearing my tranny out to keep it running to get me back home. It will not throw any codes and I don't know where to start.I ordered a new Idle Control Valve for it and will install it this week when it arrives. I just do not want to start throwing money and parts at something that I am not entirely sure the problem is. Again, this always starts and does good when its cold, it has always (3 times it has happened so far that is) failed to start after the vehicle is very well warmed up(minimum of 20 mins drive time-to over an hour of drive time)Any help or ideas would be certainly appreciated and it I run across any fixes, I will post here to help others out as well.After less than a month of ownership, it is to the point of being afraid to take it anywhere for fear of being stranded......PLEASE HELP!!!

 

is it throwing any codes or the cel on? I would go with the iac valve if the light is not going on.

 

It has failed to start 3 times since we bought it 3 weeks ago and it has not thrown a code or ran poorly when it did start or anything. The 'check engine" light has never came on except when initially starting the engine and the computer is going through all the self check diagnostics, and all the lights come on in sequential order to verify that everything is in proper working order. BTW, we have a new Idle Air Control Valve ordered and should be here Tuesday and will be installed immediately upon arrival. Will post if that is the cure, or if/when my Escape fails to start AGAIN!!! I have only owned this Ford product for 3 weeks and I am already sick of it already.......LOL.....is THIS what Ford engineers call "BUILT FORD TOUGH?"

 

The iac is easy to change and mine did the same thing.That was 2 yrs ago at 110,000 miles. now and its been a great car since and has over 170,000 miles now.It takes a tork bit to change the iac valve.

 

has anyone checked and/or replace the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets? I spent several hundred dollars on mine. Finally took to a garage and they said it was the intake gaskets. cost me $127 but turns out it wasn't fixed. why, because the mechanic only replace the upper gaskets. I took it apart to verify if he had replaced anything and that is when I seen the lowers weren't replaced. they were baked from heat and at different temperatures they would seal and others they would leak. I replace the lowers which cost me like $3.00, problem officially resolved. they are nothing but oval shaped rubber o-ring type gaskets

 

Changed the idle air control valve about 3 weeks ago and so far it looks like that was the problem. Thanks to everyone who posted for your help.

 

after nearly 2 months it appears my daughters escape is fixed. the only part I hadn't replaced yet was the MAF sensor because it was nearly $200 and there was no indication of mine being bad. last week I found a 2001 mazda tribute being parted and I went to buy the ecm. while I was there I bought the iar filter housing with the MAF sensor. the ECM wouldn't work because the anti theft is programmed into it. but I did put the air filter housing on. there hasn't been a problem since. I do wonder if the ABS was affecting it but I guess I'll never know for sure. I had found that the front tone rings had slid off from where they are supposed to be so I took applied some adhesive and slid them back in position. no more ABS light since then neither. plus I has replace the brake sensor which is in the brake fluid reservoir with one from the tribute. no more brake light since then neither. so somewhere between repairing those 3 issues the problem has been resolved and just in time. it was one day before my daughter headed back to college for fall classes.

 

I've had this problem for years and have had my mechanic check the battery, starter and alternator and everything checked fine. Normally it started in the morning but sporadically at the end of the day when leaving the parking garage, if I had problems it would turn over and immediately shut off. I kept feeling like perhaps something on the car wasn't turning off completely so I began shutting of everything when leaving the car (inside lights, AC, radio, etc.) but would still have this issue from time to time. What finally worked for me (and I haven't had the problem since) was this: When shutting the car off I waited to hear the locking mechanism after turning the key off. Sometimes the locking mechanism sounded off as it should (at which point I knew the car would later start as it should) other times it would turn off and I did not hear the locking mechanism sound (the same sound that the doors locking and unlocking make) and if I don't hear the locking mechanism sound I turned the key back on (just to battery) and waiting until I hears the doors lock and then turn the key back off until hearing the doors unlock and at that point I know the car charging system has completely disengaged. I have an automatic car starter which was not factory installed so I don't know if this has anything to do with it or not, but since I've been doing this(making sure I hear the sound of the doors unlocking prior to leaving my car) I haven't had a problem since.

The other thing I noticed when the problem was occurring was that the recharging light would be on for a couple of miles until the engine charged everything up.

Lastly, on a totally unrelated issue, the airbag light would come on from time to time depending on whether someone moved the seat forward or backwards. Any adjustment of the seat would cause the airbag light to come on. Since the airbag strings are located under the driver's side it appears that it will get stuck from time to time and cause the light to come on (which causes the airbag not to work if needed). One day I cleared everything out from under the driver's seat and found that the strings were stuck on part of the seat that moved. I pulled it loose and the airbag light has not come on since (regardless of moving the seat forward or backwards). Hope this helps - I know that these forums have helped me troubleshoot in the past.

 

I followed Bananaboat's original post for checking the codes via the odometer button. Followed the directions as published below. I needed a new battery, so it was replaced. The issue is now there is no response from the starter and vehicle is dead.

How can this be fixed? Desperate for help.
Thanks
Bob

dug up the test mode codes and the "FP" isn't fuel pressure. It's fuel level. The problem does sound like an IAC valve though assuming it doesn't have 100k miles on the original fuel filter. A fuel pump shows to be about $300 from Ford and 3 hours of labor so not a trivial task or cost without a real diagnostic. In theory a faulty fuel pump or related item would throw a code in the P1230 - P1250 range.

Since I've posted the codes, here are the details of entering test mode:
1) Put key in ignition. Do not start the engine!
2) Hold down the odometer button and continue holding down.
3) Turn key on (all accessories) but do not start.
4) After a few seconds the odometer should say "gauge" or "gage".
5) This begins the process. Push the odometer button once to advance to the next reading.

Note that on some models such as my 05 Escape, it has a few extra tests. This test works on most recent Fords (years unknown). My son's 2000 Focus shows different tests too. To stop the test or reset, just turn the key off.

2001 Escape

Seq...Display.....Description
=======================================
1.....GAGE........Full deflection sweep
2.....all.........Odometer segment check
3.....bulb........Warning light check
4.....r...........ROM level
5.....NR..........ROM level and type
6.....EE..........EE level
7.....DT..........Manufacture date
8.....CF1.........1st byte configuration setting
9.....CF2.........2nd byte configuration setting
10....CF3.........Not used
11....CF4.........Not used
12....CF5.........NVM configuration
13....DTC ####....Cluster diagnostic trouble codes
14....E ####......Speed MPH
15....####........Speed KPH
16....t ####......Tach RPM
17....F ###.......Fuel level ratio
18....FP ###......Fuel level
19....### C.......Coolant temperature degrees Celsius
20....odo ###.....Odometer input
21....tr..........Trip odometer miles
22....Ebd.........ABS EBD status
23....ABS.........ABS TT status
24....bAt ##.#....Charging system voltage
25....HSd.........High voltage shutdown status
26....tnS.........TNS switch input
27....d ###.......Dimming switch input
28....rhS ##......Dimming value
29....iin.........Ignition key-in status
30....HLP.........Headlight switch status
31....door........Door ajar switch status
32....Stbt........Seat belt status
33....FF0G........Front foglight status
34....rF0G........Rear foglight status
35....F0GF........Foglight relay status
36....Prnd........Gear selector display value
37....PaR.........Park interlock solenoid status
38....Cr..........Run/Start sense circuit check
39....AC..........Run/Acc sense circuit check
40....ArbC........Airbag chime status
41....Ch..........Last/current chime source
42....CHE ##......MIL input
43....LCL -X......Low coolant level switch
44....CS XX.......Charging system status
45....thFt........Theft indicator light
46....od..........Overdrive-off status
47....CC..........Not used
48....PA-PD.......Port A-D readings
49....PE0-PE7.....Port E0-E7 readings
50....PF-PH.......Port F-H readings <!-- / message -->

 

Can't say if all years are the same or that changed but the access to the fuel pump is easy as it's under the left-hand passenger seat under the carpet cutout. Why would that take three hours?