After Market Front End
#1
After Market Front End
O.K., I thought I'd post this even thought I'm going to get it for doing it.
I saw the the posting about the Fatman front end. What I found out was that is 29 5/8's(?) wide. Not an exact fit, because it's made for the 53 to 56 F-100. It also can cost up to $1600 bucks, ouch! I came up with an alternitive. You can take the K member out of a newer (mid 80's) dodge truck. Cut it half and it will slide right on to the f-100 frame. Put a 1x2x24" 1/8" thick spacer between the frame, then plate the two parts back together and install the 8 bolts to secure it and your done. The wheel base will increase by about 4 inches. The truck will sit fairly close to stock height. With the right tire/ wheel combo most people won't even notice the difference from stock. The bolt pattern can be changed by getting a different rotor. Dodge has two bolt patterns and one matches Ford. Steering can be done by using a Dakota rack and pinion.
There are several advantages. Durability, the dodge suspension is a lot tougher than any mustang front end. Braking your front end doing a wheel stand just isn't good. This can be intalled without hacking up a good frame. (If you need to remove it) Rebuild parts are cheap.
The biggest thing is the cost. I did it for around $350. I would rather put the money into the motor. Cost was a concern and saving $1300 made a big difference and it looks like a factory install.
O.K., There, but before some of you guy's slam me for it, take a trip out to your local junk yard and just take a look for yourself. Everbody seems to go in the same direction, I just took a step off of the beaten path.
I saw the the posting about the Fatman front end. What I found out was that is 29 5/8's(?) wide. Not an exact fit, because it's made for the 53 to 56 F-100. It also can cost up to $1600 bucks, ouch! I came up with an alternitive. You can take the K member out of a newer (mid 80's) dodge truck. Cut it half and it will slide right on to the f-100 frame. Put a 1x2x24" 1/8" thick spacer between the frame, then plate the two parts back together and install the 8 bolts to secure it and your done. The wheel base will increase by about 4 inches. The truck will sit fairly close to stock height. With the right tire/ wheel combo most people won't even notice the difference from stock. The bolt pattern can be changed by getting a different rotor. Dodge has two bolt patterns and one matches Ford. Steering can be done by using a Dakota rack and pinion.
There are several advantages. Durability, the dodge suspension is a lot tougher than any mustang front end. Braking your front end doing a wheel stand just isn't good. This can be intalled without hacking up a good frame. (If you need to remove it) Rebuild parts are cheap.
The biggest thing is the cost. I did it for around $350. I would rather put the money into the motor. Cost was a concern and saving $1300 made a big difference and it looks like a factory install.
O.K., There, but before some of you guy's slam me for it, take a trip out to your local junk yard and just take a look for yourself. Everbody seems to go in the same direction, I just took a step off of the beaten path.
#2
#3
#4
#5
After Market Front End
Cut in half, down the middle, front to back. The right and left spindle are now separated. This will make the wheel width 4 inches wider. There are no problems with clearence. The center line can be lined up with the original and there is plenty of frender clearance. The stoppers on the suspension , when fully compressed, still leave around 2 inches between the tire and the fender. If lower is your thing, then you can get a skinner (drag style) tire and or get a wheel with a bigger offset.
Hope that helps, good luck
Hope that helps, good luck
#7
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#9
After Market Front End
Hi Everyone,
I've been reading the postings on this site for some time now and I'd just like to say that you guys are a wealth of information. I've owned a 61 Unibody since I was 16 years old. It's been sitting on my Dad's farm for about ten years, and I've recently decided to rebuild it. Like most, I want to upgrade to power steering, power brakes and tilt steering column. I have a 302FI from a 93 Mustang that I also want to drop in. I've read all the posts regarding these issues. I would like to hear from someone who's modified their truck similarily. I had been considering the Volare clip idea (Yes there it is, the D---E word, not bright for a new guy to say I know, could be a worse word though), but 61fan's solution to the steering problem seems awfully simple. I would appreciate more details. If a person doesn't use the spacer on the frame does this lower the ride height or am I completely misunderstanding this? Did your $350 get you a Dakota rack and pinion too? Any further info on tilt columns from donor vehicles etc.(Will not pay $500 for a billet generic) Good crossmembers for the 302 engine/auto transmissions etc. would be greatly appreciated. I've read that the tube type are weak.?? What is involved in the Aerostar front clip conversion? Feel free to e-mail me at rohel@abnet.ca Thanks Guys!
I've been reading the postings on this site for some time now and I'd just like to say that you guys are a wealth of information. I've owned a 61 Unibody since I was 16 years old. It's been sitting on my Dad's farm for about ten years, and I've recently decided to rebuild it. Like most, I want to upgrade to power steering, power brakes and tilt steering column. I have a 302FI from a 93 Mustang that I also want to drop in. I've read all the posts regarding these issues. I would like to hear from someone who's modified their truck similarily. I had been considering the Volare clip idea (Yes there it is, the D---E word, not bright for a new guy to say I know, could be a worse word though), but 61fan's solution to the steering problem seems awfully simple. I would appreciate more details. If a person doesn't use the spacer on the frame does this lower the ride height or am I completely misunderstanding this? Did your $350 get you a Dakota rack and pinion too? Any further info on tilt columns from donor vehicles etc.(Will not pay $500 for a billet generic) Good crossmembers for the 302 engine/auto transmissions etc. would be greatly appreciated. I've read that the tube type are weak.?? What is involved in the Aerostar front clip conversion? Feel free to e-mail me at rohel@abnet.ca Thanks Guys!
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