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O.K., I thought I'd post this even thought I'm going to get it for doing it.
I saw the the posting about the Fatman front end. What I found out was that is 29 5/8's(?) wide. Not an exact fit, because it's made for the 53 to 56 F-100. It also can cost up to $1600 bucks, ouch! I came up with an alternitive. You can take the K member out of a newer (mid 80's) dodge truck. Cut it half and it will slide right on to the f-100 frame. Put a 1x2x24" 1/8" thick spacer between the frame, then plate the two parts back together and install the 8 bolts to secure it and your done. The wheel base will increase by about 4 inches. The truck will sit fairly close to stock height. With the right tire/ wheel combo most people won't even notice the difference from stock. The bolt pattern can be changed by getting a different rotor. Dodge has two bolt patterns and one matches Ford. Steering can be done by using a Dakota rack and pinion.
There are several advantages. Durability, the dodge suspension is a lot tougher than any mustang front end. Braking your front end doing a wheel stand just isn't good. This can be intalled without hacking up a good frame. (If you need to remove it) Rebuild parts are cheap.
The biggest thing is the cost. I did it for around $350. I would rather put the money into the motor. Cost was a concern and saving $1300 made a big difference and it looks like a factory install.
O.K., There, but before some of you guy's slam me for it, take a trip out to your local junk yard and just take a look for yourself. Everbody seems to go in the same direction, I just took a step off of the beaten path.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 30-Apr-02 AT 02:38 PM (EST)]Hey I like that idea! Where were you 9 months ago?
I installed a clip from an 89 Town Car. I think I
like your idea better, Oh well! Tim.
I have a '63 swb, and a Areostar front end went under it real easy. Now I still have my truck all Ford. Have not got all the front sheetmetal, or the motor back in, but I think the ride height will be about the same.
Cut in half, down the middle, front to back. The right and left spindle are now separated. This will make the wheel width 4 inches wider. There are no problems with clearence. The center line can be lined up with the original and there is plenty of frender clearance. The stoppers on the suspension , when fully compressed, still leave around 2 inches between the tire and the fender. If lower is your thing, then you can get a skinner (drag style) tire and or get a wheel with a bigger offset.
Hope that helps, good luck
I've been reading the postings on this site for some time now and I'd just like to say that you guys are a wealth of information. I've owned a 61 Unibody since I was 16 years old. It's been sitting on my Dad's farm for about ten years, and I've recently decided to rebuild it. Like most, I want to upgrade to power steering, power brakes and tilt steering column. I have a 302FI from a 93 Mustang that I also want to drop in. I've read all the posts regarding these issues. I would like to hear from someone who's modified their truck similarily. I had been considering the Volare clip idea (Yes there it is, the D---E word, not bright for a new guy to say I know, could be a worse word though), but 61fan's solution to the steering problem seems awfully simple. I would appreciate more details. If a person doesn't use the spacer on the frame does this lower the ride height or am I completely misunderstanding this? Did your $350 get you a Dakota rack and pinion too? Any further info on tilt columns from donor vehicles etc.(Will not pay $500 for a billet generic) Good crossmembers for the 302 engine/auto transmissions etc. would be greatly appreciated. I've read that the tube type are weak.?? What is involved in the Aerostar front clip conversion? Feel free to e-mail me at rohel@abnet.ca Thanks Guys!