Today while putting on my plenum I opened the oil cap and noticed that there was a ton of crap caked on the vaulve cover. Then I pulled the I think some one told me it was the pcv vaulve on the back of the passenger vaulve cover. Thatwas full of crap too. It seems that this engine in exteamly dirty. How do i fix this? do i have to remove the heads or just the covers? Thanks Dan

 

there's something called seafoam. some people use it to flush the motor out. this helps but there are side effects: all the sealing properties the crud has help in keeping the motor run may get cleaned out and your motor might run worse than before the cleaning.

 

What color is the junk. LT Green or dark like oil. If dark then change the oil after 2000mi several times and this should solve the problem. If green you might have a water leak into the oil system and that is a problem you need to resolve NOW.

 

it is black. I am willing and going to do a the valve guide seals and stuff, but I want to know what to do. Would it be easyer to take out the engine. I have engine hoists fork lifts and stuff, but if it isnt that much more work i would rather leave the engine in. I have dont this on Ford Taurus SHOs. But that has the timming chain and stuff so I have never delt with this kind of engine in this aspect. I read that the crup can build presure and blow a rear maine seal. There is oil or tranny fluid on the transmission where it conects to the engine. I havent driven the truck enough to see if it is leaking. There must have been built up pressure because there was oil up in the throtle body and plenum. Thanks Dan

 

If the PCR/EGR valve is plugged up, that can cause a pressure buildup and blow oil all over the motor and trans. What year and how many miles? I have never heard of removing the engine to do a head job. I still think you should spend your money for fresh oil and filters for several months before starting a complex engine repair job. Does it run OK. If the valve seals are bad it usually causes the engine to smoke like a mosquito fogger. Is it missing or running rough? My 98 F250 would not run over 30mph and it was caused by a catalytic converter baffle plugging the exhaust pipe. Unless this truck has over 100,000 miles on it chances are that your problem is not major.

 

the truck is a 92 f-150 5.0L. it has 140 thousand miles. I cut the cats and ran true daul stright pipes. I am just doing the valves because that is something we do every time we get a new SHO. it is missing but the plugs are horible. I have to wait till i am in ny to do those (my torches are there). what is the pcr? I The egr looks pretty cloged. Should i just disconect it? shotty i know but i ran my 95 like that and it ran awsome. I cut the tube and unpluged it.

 

well i dont know if it is missing it seems like it wasnt getting gass when i was traveling on the highway. the plenum gasket was mostly gone in the back. I fixed that now i just need some new rings for the injectors and I am going to try it.
Thanks dan

 

EGR valve being plugged up wouldnt have much to do with a dirty engine. If anything, the EGR valve being stuck shut will keep dirty exhaust gases from going back through the intake.

Like stated earlier, the best way to fix this is change the oil much more often, and replace the PCV valve.

I'll tell ya what I do at every oil change. People say this will tear engines up but I just tore my 351 down to the block (finished it today) and the cylinder walls looked incredible with less than a thousandth wear on every one of them. The rod/main bearings had normal, minimal wear. But anyways, I will drain the oil and keep the old filter in place. Once the oil is drained, I replace the plug and dump about 3 quarts of kerosene into the filler neck. I then start it up and let it run at an IDLE for roughly 20-30 seconds. Drain the kerosene and watch all the nasty crap run out. I've done this to high mileage engines that I'm about to rebuild that have had little care and it cleans them out nicely. Then replace the filter and put the fresh oil back in er. I wouldn't do this more than twice in a row. I did it to my ranger when the pickup screen on the oil sump got plugged up and it cleared it up.

Again, I'm not saying it's the cure for dirty engines, but I've always noticed that it helps. I take no responsibility for any type of engine damage.

 

ok I think i know were the pcv valve is but I was reading a thing about how it is on the back of the manifold and i dont see anything back there so I am kind of confused. Where is it?
thanks I will try that.

 

I've heard of running a few quarts of tranny fluid through an engine. Never tried it though.

 

The PCV valve is kind of a hard to get to. It is on top of the passenger side valve cover in the far back, against the firewall. If you get over top of your engine you can feel behind the intake manifold and feel a hose leading to it. I just hope you have little hands haha.

 

Thanks. thats what i thought it was. I have the plenum off so it is easy to access.

 

Thats the easiest way to get to it. How did ya like gettin that centre torxhead bolt out of the upper plenum? I had to grind about 1/16 off the end of my T40 just to get it to slide over top of the bolt. That was the hardest part in getting my engine completely apart haha.

 

It wasnt bad i got a tip set from advance auto for $14. It has tons of bits. There are most of the torx you need for a ford. not the big ones though. I hooked it up to a magnetic holder from my screwgun. then hooked that up to my ratchet and slid it down in. it only took a few seconds to get it together and on the bolt.

 

I had a complete Craftsman set and they were too "long." So I went to Auto Zone and bought a cheapo set and it was still to long. So I grinded off the tip and went on about my life. Used my 10" Craftsman extension and my 3/8 ratchet.