$3200 plus labor...ouch!!!
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
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$3200 plus labor...ouch!!!
Just got a laundry list of things my 00 v10 needs with 71k :
1) upper & lower ball joints on both sides
2) ESOF Hubs
3) Broken studs/mainifold leak on both sides
4) Front & rear pads & rotors
5) AC Compressor Clutch
6) 2 bad COP's
7) Rear Diff cover leaking
8) Alternator
9) Battery
Dealer quoted $3200 in parts alone...no clue on labor yet. I told them to replace the COP's and the AC compressor, $670 w/ labor, also includes diagnostic costs up to this point. Good thing I'm not real attached to my money. Who knew superduty ownership would be so pricey.
1) upper & lower ball joints on both sides
2) ESOF Hubs
3) Broken studs/mainifold leak on both sides
4) Front & rear pads & rotors
5) AC Compressor Clutch
6) 2 bad COP's
7) Rear Diff cover leaking
8) Alternator
9) Battery
Dealer quoted $3200 in parts alone...no clue on labor yet. I told them to replace the COP's and the AC compressor, $670 w/ labor, also includes diagnostic costs up to this point. Good thing I'm not real attached to my money. Who knew superduty ownership would be so pricey.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 234
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Dealers always are going to be more expensive at repair time then a small auto shop. Alot of dealership's will warranty thier work, unlike smaller auto shops. Also, if the dealer really F's up thier work, and makes the problem worse, they will fix it at no cost. (well most work like this anyway). Friend of mine had his Transfer Case(Jeep Cherokee) replaced at a local Jeep dealership. Everything worked fine for a month and the Transfer Case went out again. The mech at the dealer had installed it wrong. Long story short, after a few calls to Chrylser HQ, it got fixed at no charge.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,110
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dang!!!!!!!!!
71k miles and have to repair something already? i hope yours is just a fluke or somehing like that or these things are the biggest peices of garbage around.
$3200 just on parts?!?! no way!!!! i guarentee that is way too high, get a 2nd and 3rd opinion, and....find out what you really do need to repair and what doesn't, also there could be some stuff you can do yourself.
71k miles and have to repair something already? i hope yours is just a fluke or somehing like that or these things are the biggest peices of garbage around.
$3200 just on parts?!?! no way!!!! i guarentee that is way too high, get a 2nd and 3rd opinion, and....find out what you really do need to repair and what doesn't, also there could be some stuff you can do yourself.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,339
Likes: 5
From: NJ
Originally Posted by sifon187
Dealers always are going to be more expensive at repair time then a small auto shop. Alot of dealership's will warranty thier work, unlike smaller auto shops. Also, if the dealer really F's up thier work, and makes the problem worse, they will fix it at no cost. (well most work like this anyway). Friend of mine had his Transfer Case(Jeep Cherokee) replaced at a local Jeep dealership. Everything worked fine for a month and the Transfer Case went out again. The mech at the dealer had installed it wrong. Long story short, after a few calls to Chrylser HQ, it got fixed at no charge.
I also don't agree that the dealer will repair their mistakes either, I get many car's that just came from the dealer worse than they went in and they often refuse to make it right.
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 396
Likes: 2
Did you just buy the truck? That is alot of broken items that have been getting by for some time. Either way, $3200 is way much just for parts.
Hootbro
Hootbro
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From: New York
I agree that $3200 sounds like alot for 9 items. You can do a little research yourself and see how much those parts would cost. Actually, nothing there should be so mechanically expensive. If you threw in a transfer case, then I could say that the price is more justified. I concur with the others, get a 2nd price quote. Or go to another dealers' parts dept and get their prices. Or.......maybe try fordparts direct and see if they have those items and the cost for them:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214290
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214290
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Senior User
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Originally Posted by rwilimo
Any reputable shop should warranty their work, I own a small shop and we certainly warranty our work. Find a good quality small shop and build a reputation with them, you will be much happier in the long run.
I also don't agree that the dealer will repair their mistakes either, I get many car's that just came from the dealer worse than they went in and they often refuse to make it right.
I also don't agree that the dealer will repair their mistakes either, I get many car's that just came from the dealer worse than they went in and they often refuse to make it right.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 84
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From: Lake Fork (WoodCo.) TX
Man oh Man does this ring true.
I got a quote from my dealer for ESP on my F-250 PSD. They quoted me almost $700 more than Ford was offering on the website. I called Ford customer service to verify the price.
Ford sent me the paper work to fill out, which I did and mailed it back, thus cutting the dealer completely out of any action on that deal.
I got a quote from my dealer for ESP on my F-250 PSD. They quoted me almost $700 more than Ford was offering on the website. I called Ford customer service to verify the price.
Ford sent me the paper work to fill out, which I did and mailed it back, thus cutting the dealer completely out of any action on that deal.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
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I know Dealer prices are usually sky high. I plan on doing everything myself except for the ac clutch as the compressor needs to be removed and the system evac'd and recharged. I'm also letting them do the bad coils even though they're abot $25 more each. I figure that when I pick it up if it is still running like crap, they have the ability to look much deeper than I do.
The brakes, rear diff cover, battery, and alternator I'm definitely going to do on my own. The hublocks will probably get swapped w/ a set of Warn premiums. The ball joints I can probably do as well. the only fear I have is the axle seal driver issue. The manifolds I'll prpably try them too, worst case I have to take it to the local shop to have the really stuck studs removed.
The local shop I sometimes use just did an inspection in may and didnt note any problems that needed attention. Either they dont look as close or the dealer is way more picky/detail oriented/carefull
The brakes, rear diff cover, battery, and alternator I'm definitely going to do on my own. The hublocks will probably get swapped w/ a set of Warn premiums. The ball joints I can probably do as well. the only fear I have is the axle seal driver issue. The manifolds I'll prpably try them too, worst case I have to take it to the local shop to have the really stuck studs removed.
The local shop I sometimes use just did an inspection in may and didnt note any problems that needed attention. Either they dont look as close or the dealer is way more picky/detail oriented/carefull
