engine mounts 460
1st off, Welcome to the FTE 73-79 F Series Truck Forum Page
There are engine brackets, and there are insulators which cross bolt engine brackets to frame perches, at least that's how an OEM engine mounting system works. If all you have is the frame stands (perches) then you still need engine brackets & insulators.
I don't know about the engine brackets off hand, but the insulators are still available new.
Any 76-79 F-series that came with a 460 should have them. I'd go for new insulators myself tho'. Also FWIW if you're thinking of running OEM style CI Exh' Manifolds, right side is truck only. L/H, P-Car manifold will fit & work.
Also, if you don't have a F-series Truck Pan, either get one, or else add a Oil Drain Bung to the back of the sump because the P-Car pan, when installed in a truck app winds up with the drain up over the wide, engine, X-Member and it makes Oil changing a certifiable, Sloppy, PITA
FBp
Last edited by FordBoypete; Aug 15, 2006 at 10:45 PM.
The mounts you are looking for could also be on a late 70's E-series Van 460.
Remember it's a 3-piece mount with 2 Large Grade 8 bolts running through them.
Dennis, I am surprised you didn't post your oft-requested picture!
The perches bolt to the frame.
The insulators go on top of the perch, and are made of rubber. These are commonly called motor mounts.
The cups bolt to the block, and fit over the motor mount.
The perches and the cups are cross bolted to prevent the engine from rollling over.
I don't know how to weld or braze, so I used a bolt up solution instead to solve the oil mess problem. I put an '83 460 oil pan on mine, and it puts the bottom drain plug right behind the cross member, easy to get to with almost no mess. You will need an '80s oil pump, pickup tube (with dpeical man bearing bolt to fasten the pickup to), along with the dipstick and dipstick tube though, as the front dipstick no longer will work. The newer one goes into the side of the pan.
Man, I was walking a local salvage yard a couple of weeks ago and found not 1 but 2 79 F150's with the factory 460's still in them. If I would of had the cash, I would have bought both of them.
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FWIW I prefer and I personally run the OEM engine mount system because it absolutely will not allow the engine to roll over in the engine bay as some other mounts may. Now on 4X4s you gotta run Aftermarkets to get height to clear the rear sump style oil pan set up & front Diffy'.
Not so with a 2Wd set up tho.
Also use grade 8 or A&N Rated hardware to fasten the mounts down
FBp
Last edited by FordBoypete; Aug 16, 2006 at 08:43 PM.
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What's really "killer" is that OEM TVR with the correct configuration & the guide with the nylon bushing in it, that goes on the upper left "Blhsg Bolt". It steadys the rod & makes kickdowns surgically precise. . . .FWIW, most salvage guys aren't wise to their worth yet, but a lot of 385 fans are getting there. . . .
I grab every one I can find, along with the shift lever at the throttle valve on the A/T.
without that, it's probable to get throttle jamb if you have a Super Cab or a Crew. It's one of those "dive for the Ign Switch deals", ya know? It's not from bad mounts etc, it's a function of frame flex and that OEM system stops all the problems. . . .Don't ask how I learned that tid bit of info. . .
FBp




