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I bought the ART rotors and pads. Followed their break in proceedure and have never had a problem since. Before ART, I went through 4 sets of pads and rotors in 80,000 miles. I put new OEM rotors and pads on and within 5,000 miles the front end would start to shimmy whenever I would brake.
Anyone ever have luck with Raybestos rotors and pads? My local brake shop highly recommend these on heavy trucks. Asking $495 for front rotors and pads and labor.
Santa, you hear that?? I need new rotors and pads and I've been good all year
I had my original rotors turned for 30$$, I installed a set of ceramic pads, I haven had a problem since. I have done this on my work truck also. Truck stops great and didnt have to spend alot of cashola I didnt have.
My excursion is on it's 5th set of rotors and it is an 03 model with 70,000 miles. Every 5,000 miles they needed turned and every 10,000 needed replaced. I do live in a mountainous area. The dealer replaced the first 4 sets then when the warranty run out I purchased the Powerslot rotors and the Hawk high performance brake pads off of a seller on ebay for 260.00. I haven't had a problem since and that was October 2005. Made a world of difference.
My excursion is on it's 5th set of rotors and it is an 03 model with 70,000 miles. Every 5,000 miles they needed turned and every 10,000 needed replaced. I do live in a mountainous area. The dealer replaced the first 4 sets then when the warranty run out I purchased the Powerslot rotors and the Hawk high performance brake pads off of a seller on ebay for 260.00. I haven't had a problem since and that was October 2005. Made a world of difference.
WOW...5 sets of rotors in 70,000 miles! I have an Ex...got 115,000 miles on my rotors...with only turning and pads at 40k & 80k miles...
BUT...I did switch to Powerslots and Hawkpads at 115,000 because I started towing a 33ft trailer...THEY ARE WONDERFUL!
Rotor warping is actually not "warpage" at all. It is high and low spots on the rotor surface. The correct term is actually "variation from parallelism." It is true that if lug nuts are overtightened the rotor can distort. This is usually going to be a case of overtightening PLUS not using the proper torque sequence in the process. Lug nuts should be torqued by hand to 150 ft-lbs. following the correct torque sequence. The pulsation felt is when the pads actually "skip" across the high spots in the rotors. Keep in mind that if you are machining the rotors, find a shop that uses an on-car brake lathe such as the VBG. You will get a better finalized product. If on-car machining is not available make sure the rotors are checked with a dial indicator (less than .003" runout) when installed. This goes for installing new rotors also. Remember there is eight ways to index the rotor, you might have to try a few different positions on the hub to find the least runout. The idea is to keep runout to a minimum. Most manufacturers state that the rotor surfaces should be within five ten-thousandths (.0005) of an inch from each other. We too, have much better luck with the Powerslots and Hawk pads than we do with OE or Raybestos aftermarket stuff.
Everybody has different opinions and history on this. Me I have had 5 diesels and 4 of them have been SD's, each and every one of them has had warped rotors sooner or later. I have gotten involved with Powerslot and exclusively sell/use their Cyro'ed rotors and they have been great. I have my truck, the wifes Navigator and lots of friends and customers that have used them and so far they have been excellent for shorter stops and no warpage either. The cyro process is the key as far as I am concerned. Get a set of them and a set of the Hawk LTS pads and you'll be happy. If you have any questions on them let me know.
Thanks Mark, Right now I have about 3K on my new pads and turned rotors, no sign of any problems so far. If the problem comes back be sure I will be replacing rotors and pads.
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