I know this subject has been beeten to death, I have done a search, and have been told expensive rotors have been the cure, and have not worked at all, and have read cheap rotors have worked, and have not worked. My calipers are not frozen, Now I have 2 trucks with rotor problems, Whitch ones to get. autozone, or expensive ones. Thanks.

 

I belive the biggest problem with the Excursion's brakes are NOT the rotors. I fell into that line of thinking just like many others and have dumped lots of money in expensive aftermarket stuff only to have them 'warp". (Warping is a myth but more on that later...)

I feel the biggest problem is the pad material. It is very dusty and that excessive dust creates the high spots or cementite common on these trucks.

Best bet is to get high quality pads and the best rotors you can afford. Spend the money on the pads, IMO. and then be METICULOUS about the break-in of those pads.

In fact, you can even resurface your rotors provided they will still be within spec afterwards and get some high quality pads. I prefer ceramic due to the low dust and therefore low cementite problems. The braking characteristics are a bit different but you get used to it. They are a bit wooden when first used but improve as they warm up.

I've always been referring folks to this for some time now.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

 

I had problems with the stock crap warping and finally bit the bullet but I didnt fall for the frozen rotors crap and went with the advice from another member on TDS and got the rotorpro.com stuff and am more than happy with the pads and rotors stopping is greatly improved and the price was way better that the Frozen Rotors and Hawk pads

 

i agree. i have the powersluts and hawk pads. i have had them about 6 months now and they are warped. and i dont think you can cut the ps rotors. hmmmm, now what to do? i am coming close to needing a set of pads on the rear now. i think i am going to do a set of brembo and ceramic pads this time.. ahh, its only money. i thought doing brakes every 6 mos was normal for all cars and trucks. lol.,not really..

 

Ya think brake you have brake problems get a Volvo & you will cry cry cry . Thay stop great but the cost is extremly high, rotor & pads every time! & brembo is high $$$$. you will find out . I installed severe duty wagner, hard on rotors but thay will stop great . get rotor turned on the Ex.

Don

 

if you truly want to rid yourself of the warping issue with these trucks buy performance friction rotors and pads. I don't care what you do with most rotors on the market, deep freeze you name it. if you run a 1 piece stock size rotor these trucks will warp it. PFC is more expensive than others but find out how much racerx put into powerslots and hawk pads and he is in the market again 6 months later. I have been selling and running pfc for 5 years and to my knowledge not 1 set of warped rotors. I have customers running them on multiple trucks coming back a year or more later to buy rotors for new trucks. PFC is a 2 piece design rotor in which the disc floats continually from the hat allowing the disc to contract and expand with heat without resistance. On top of solving the warping issue you increase stopping performance dramatically. I personaly have run them on my 00 Ex, 02 Ex and now my 04 Ex and I drive my trucks hard and tow regularly in the 7 - 10k lb range. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[QUOTE=Monsta]I belive the biggest problem with the Excursion's brakes are NOT the rotors. I fell into that line of thinking just like many others and have dumped lots of money in expensive aftermarket stuff only to have them 'warp". (Warping is a myth but more on that later...)

I feel the biggest problem is the pad material. It is very dusty and that excessive dust creates the high spots or cementite common on these trucks.

Best bet is to get high quality pads and the best rotors you can afford. Spend the money on the pads, IMO. and then be METICULOUS about the break-in of those pads.

In fact, you can even resurface your rotors provided they will still be within spec afterwards and get some high quality pads. I prefer ceramic due to the low dust and therefore low cementite problems. The braking characteristics are a bit different but you get used to it. They are a bit wooden when first used but improve as they warm up.

I've always been referring folks to this for some time now.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml[/QUOTE]

Thats what I was thinking also, I have no pulse in the brake pedal. And you can feel it at a slow stop. I had the rotors turned, again, puting in a set of ceramic pads, If it happens again I will purchase the high $$$ rotors. I will keep ya posted. Thanks guys.

 

Got a link to their products?

Stewart

 

It looks like Tom (Mr. Clutch) sells them on his website http://www.carolinaclutch.com/cart/show/item/106887.

 

also make sure your lugs are torqued correctly no just airgunned on this also helps in the warping process

 

Is it true that improper lug nut torque wil cause rotor warp?

 

I had two sets of warped performance friction rotors. The first set was warped when I put them on my excursion. They were replaced with a new set and the next set lasted about 50,000 miles before warping. I just keep a set of turned rotors around because they all warp sooner or later......

 

It Sounds like most of us do not know what really causes warped rotors. Heat? Lug Nut Torque? Pads? design? Someone somewhere must have done a real scientific test to determine the cause of rotor warp. These people are nuts that want $600 for a brake job with $60 in parts.

 

I do not know what the future may hold, but...

So far, I've had good experience with the Cryo Powerslots and Hawk Performance pads. I meticulously followed the bedding-in and break-in advice and have not towed our travel trailer in the first 1000 miles on the brakes. I've had to use them for a "quick stop" only a time or two in the first 1000 miles.

The original rotors were so bad at 87K miles that the back end of the truck (yes, the back) seemed to "hop" up and down on any vigorous braking. Kind of scary for the passengers, especially with a 9,000 lb trailer behind us.

The truth may be learned (about new brakes) when I start towing next weekend.

 

I did some search and found this thread. Didn't want to start a new one....

V-10 2002, 50,000 miles. Roughly 12,000 miles on aftermarket Brembo rotors (front and back) and Hawk pads (front and back). Properly torqued to specs and proper embedding (sp?) of ceramic pads.....WARPED!

Just had the rotors turned for $150....I don't even tow yet and am light on the brakes. These trucks are heavy....

Drive Safe,

Dan