Increasing intake size for mpg
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
Increasing intake size for mpg
I am looking (as likely everyone else) to increase my mpg. Having read a lot on this forum, it seems the best first step is an k&n filter and increase the size of my intake. Where are the best prices for the filter on the net or brick and mortar? I have also read where some do it yourselfers increase the size of the intake by keeping the stock breather but rigging a four inch hose to a position by the radiator. Does anyone have any pictures and/or good instructions as to how to do this?
'94 F-350 7.3 turbo w/overdrive
'94 F-350 7.3 turbo w/overdrive
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,030
Likes: 0
From: Powell River B.C.
I built a bigger air scoop from fiberglass, opened up the grill top just above the headlight, and built a deflector scoop behind my grill. This set up doesn't allow rain directly into your intake as it is deflected air, and at 50 mph I've measured 2 inches of boost at my inlet, no major structural modifcation involved. I have pictues, just click on my name, view gallery. Good luck, I'm real happy with the result on my truck.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
I was just looking at that very thing. On my '94 the factory air intake is above the battery. I guess the air flows between the hood and the frame, which seems pretty restrictive to me. The radiator is quite large plus it has a tranmission cooler in front. The only way MIGHT be to cut away a portion of the grill, but I am not willing to do that. I might be able to enlarge the existing "scoop", but I am not sure how much good that would do. I could always install a hood scoop, lol. I still would appreciate more suggestions as to how to accomplish this. Thanks.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
Hey KJLYPN, the more I look at your pictures, the more I like your idea. I have no experience with fiberglass, so I might have to do something different. Did you try it with just the larger scoop, or did you do it all at the same time?
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,030
Likes: 0
From: Powell River B.C.
I did the delflector behind the grill first. helped a lot, then built the fiberglass scoop, helped more. Have since trimmed the grill opening some more and opened up the over the headlight hole as much as possible, very happy with the results. The picture also have descripitive notes. As far as the fiberglass goes, find a buddy that knows how to work it, build a duct mold out of styrofoam, easy to shape, an autobody fiberglass repair kit has enough material to do the job, and get some 4 inch dryer duct. Also I got rid of all the hood insulation around the inlet area, and sealed the edges of the trimmed off insulation with duct tape to alow for unrestricted air flow from under the grill, into the duct. Mine is N/A,no turbo, with 3" exhausts out of the manifolds, so now I about ready to turn up the fuel screw. Even without doing that though, what I have done has vastly improved performance.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
I used to do HVAC work, I made that all myself other than the 6" round to 4" round reducer and the 4" singlewall adjustable ell. There are no factory ductwork fittings that will work where it has to go.
I removed the drivers side radiator support bracket, trimmed the bracket on the side of the radiator and made a new radiator support bracket out of 1" x 1/4" flat stock.
The other end of the line goes into my ATS turbo air cleaner box.
I removed the drivers side radiator support bracket, trimmed the bracket on the side of the radiator and made a new radiator support bracket out of 1" x 1/4" flat stock.
The other end of the line goes into my ATS turbo air cleaner box.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
Dave, I didn't think about using the adjustable pipe, in my mind I was thinking about dryer vent stuff. I wonder if the flexible metal/foil dryer vent would work? It seems that you could shape it around things without having to cut to much of the truck. Of course, too much shaping would cut down on the air flow. Thanks for the picture, that really helps.
KJLYPN, you said earlier that you somehow measured your air flow. How do you do that?
KJLYPN, you said earlier that you somehow measured your air flow. How do you do that?
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,030
Likes: 0
From: Powell River B.C.
I have an aircraft maintenance shop- in addition to regular aircraft maintenace, we have a electrical compnent overhaul shop that does starters, generators, alternators, magneto's, starter/generators etc. Our test equipment requires measured cooling air flow measurements for some of these components, so I took a water manometer for a test drive or two, with a test hose taped to the middle of the fiberglass duct, pointed backwards, not into the flow so it measured actual pressure in the duct. My 4" inch duct is aircraft sceet ducting which is double walled silcone reinforced fabric with a spring wire between two layers to keep it in duct shape. very smooth, full 4" with almost 0 resistance to good air flow. Find an aircraft maintenance shop to supply, about 15 bucks a foot.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
When you do duct work there are formulas that you use to get flow figures from.
Ribbed pipe is more than twice as restrictive as smooth pipe.
The only reason I left the stock ribbed hose in my setup was so I could unhook it with no tools when I leave to plow snow at 2 or 3 AM.
You will also notice I have it squeezed together so tight it almost has no ribs left inside the pipe.
I almost went with rigid pipe for the whole setup, but I could see me dropping tools and fasteners in the snow which would not be found till the snow melted or a tire went flat after I ran over a screw driver, screw or something else I dropped.
Ribbed pipe is more than twice as restrictive as smooth pipe.
The only reason I left the stock ribbed hose in my setup was so I could unhook it with no tools when I leave to plow snow at 2 or 3 AM.
You will also notice I have it squeezed together so tight it almost has no ribs left inside the pipe.
I almost went with rigid pipe for the whole setup, but I could see me dropping tools and fasteners in the snow which would not be found till the snow melted or a tire went flat after I ran over a screw driver, screw or something else I dropped.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
Well, I installed my K&N filter. I looked at both of what you guys suggested, and did less. I thought that something is better than nothing, and I would do the least intrusive, knowing I could always do more later. I bought a 3" adjustable stove pipe elbow and one straight section. I cut a hole in a flat section of my stock plastic intake right next to where it changes back to 4" round and made a collar on the elbow by cutting slots and bending the tabs over. I used very small screws to attach it. I sealed it with duct tape. I ran the straight section down to a 3" opening under the bracket that attaches the radiator to the frame. I took the remainder of the straight section and fashoined a "scoop" that hopefully will direct air to the opening. $4.50 total spent(not counting the filter).
While it is certainly not as efficient as either you two, maybe it will help. I did notice an increase in power, but mostly noticed that it didn't seem to take as much pedal to maintain speed. Maybe this is just wishful thinking. I'll let you know when I run my first tank through. Thanks again.
While it is certainly not as efficient as either you two, maybe it will help. I did notice an increase in power, but mostly noticed that it didn't seem to take as much pedal to maintain speed. Maybe this is just wishful thinking. I'll let you know when I run my first tank through. Thanks again.