First off thx for all the contributers on this board ..great group and I have learned an amazing amount about these trucks while doing my restoration research.

I'm a green,newbie,first time,rookie so be patient. I have a 1966 ford f 100 custom cab. My dad purchased the truck in 1967. Has not been started in 15 years. I'm begining a restoratin and thought I would get the thing running to see were I was at mechanically. Well today I was able to get the engine running smooth, but had to use a boat tank for my fuel tank.

Here is my problem: fuel line from fuel pump to bottom of cab fuel hose is unobstructed. The fuel line from the tank to the bottom of the cab (to the fuel hose linkage) is plugged with a black tar goo. The siphon tube from the tank was plugged full of this goo. I ran a wire to the bottom of the tank through the siphon tube and kept getting black goo. I was unable to run a wire into the fuel line.

First question: What is this stuff ...is this the original tank sealent breaking down. Why it is just in the first section of fuel line from the tank is a mystery and in the fuel tank siphon tube (i suspect in the bottom of the tank as well).

Is it possible to flush this stuff out of the tank and lines and what do I use how do I do this. Again it has the consistency of tar. The outside temp today was about 98f so I don't know if this stuff changes consistency with colder temps. For what its worth the tank does not leak.

Thx for your time and trust me there will be alot more questions coming down the road.

 

It sounds like a tank sealer and old gas that mixed and coated the inside of the tube. I would pull the tank out and use an air compressor to blow as much as I could out of the line. Then hook a long block cleaner brush to a drill and pull it all the way back through spinning. That will knock off most of the deposits. Also with the tank out you will be better able to see what is inside the rest of it. I pulled mine out a few years back, there was 7 lbs of misc rust and deposits from the last 40 years.

 

I had the same problem. I cleaned out all the lines flushed the tank, but still had flow problems. When you get the tank off clean it really well. SeaFoam in the tank and lines will get out the varnish that the old gas left. If this tank has been sealed in the past, just get a new one. (LMC - $200)

If the tank looks nasty inside, do yourself a favor and buy a new one. I wish I had... I wasted tons of time and tears on it and ended up finding a replacement anyway. Just my two cents.

 

I agree; but I got a local radiator shop here in town; that also clean's out fuel tanks; I recommend searching your town and see if you have the same option. My local shop; will look and determine if your tank is beyond cleaning and won't charge for this initial service. I agree a new tank and line is the right way to a good restro and save's alot of trouble down the road. I would also change the fuel pump(New or use tank). And if you get your old tank clean, I would still install a inline filter for protection as well.

 

This is a really bad thing to do! You're lucky the line was obstructed so that you couldn't use the tank to start the truck!

By all means, boil out the tank and have it plasticoated or replace with a new tank. Money very well spent.

Keep us posted!

 

Boneyard gas tank = $25
Fuel hose and clamps = $6
Inline fuel filter = $4.95
Not having gooey sludge clog up your fuel pump and carb = priceless.

 

When I cleaned my tank, every radiator shop I called said they couldn't get the chemicals needed to clean a tank anymore due to gov't restrictions.

Maybe this is a Montana only restriction? Would have saved me a lot of trouble.

 

Wonder where dadstruck went?

 

been very busy ...thx for all the great input. I found some stuff that por 15 makes "fuel tank repair kit" and also found a interesting web site of a guy that has the same problem. I'll attach it for those interested http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Fue...storation.html.

The black goo he shows is is the same stuff/sludge thats in mine. Have any of you folks used this POR stuff ?


By the way I'll give up a bad rookie mistake so that hopefully it will help others. Here it goes. I changed all batt cables, coil, points, condensor,plugs,plug wire, dist cap, dist rotor, frame ground strap, fuel line filters.
Could get no spark at all....frustrating. Began trouble shooting this problem and it took several days of scratching my head reading these boards until I had relized what I had done. I bought a 12 volt light tester at autozone hooked up the red wire to the negative side of the battery and then hooked up the tester pointer to the negative side of the coil. Turned the key on to verify 12volts to the coil and the light came on. Cranked the engine and the light did not blink but stayed on solid. duh!!!! It should have blinked with the points breaking.doulbe duh!!!!! I opened the dist and found I had hooked the dist ground wire to the back of the points block with the condensor wire rather than to the dist base. I fixed this mistake when I got everything hooked up correctly bingo it fired right off and ran great for the first time in about 15 years. I've ordered a new carb and hopefully will fix the fuel tank soon. I can tell this is going to be a massive learning curb restoring this truck, but it should be fun ....i think.