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Hey guys,
I've been trying to lower my truck, first by removing leaves, next I'm going to put rev eye mains on all four corners and flip the rear hangers. I figure the next step is a drop axle. So my question is: If I get a 3" drop axle from classic performance, is it basically a bolt in swap, or does anything else need to be modified? I see they have the tie rod drops too, and I'm wondering if I'll need those...
Nailhead, You'll need the tie rod extentions...Also, A suggestion you might consider changing out your drag link for an extra 1 1/4 to center your wheels...that is if your going with a new leaf system. Mid fifty has a very nice package for this whole set up, drop axel, tie rod extention and "sweet-n-smooth," leafs. Check out their site. For your rear suspention reverse eye's are the ticket as well as moving your front hangers up 2" on the frame. this requires little fab and its free. check out the article section of this forum. Best of luck!
thanks for the replies. low, I wish mid fifty had more stuff for the F1's but from what I can see there pretty much all F100. I just called classic p up and the guy said it is a bolt in, the tie plates are already welded in, and that I would only also need the tie rod drops. For you guys with the drop axles, did you also pull leaves from the front packs? I've got the rev eye mains, but I really want to get it as low as I can while avoiding bump steer..
Yeah, You can remove very second one...2,4,6, leave up to four however, I've got three. kinda bumpy, but you may not even need to remove more than a couple cause of your drop axel...good luck, post pics when done
Last edited by low54; Aug 11, 2006 at 03:38 PM.
Reason: misspell
Well, after getting under the rear of the truck to see how to get these front hangers flipped, I realized this is going to be a huge pain in the *** without taking the bed off, all for a fat "inch or so" of drop the rev eyes give. So I'm gonna go with an axle flip kit, which even with a bolt in c notch will only cost what one of the rev eye mains would....
Christopher2, what did you end up doing to fix the clearance prob?
Ok I am going to go look at my book, the 48 -52 chassis part catalog on page 93 has part # 3134 that it calls an arm spindle. It is bent or curved up from the factory to reach up to the drag link when the axle is sittting in its stock position. Keeps the drag link level. When you move the tie rod ends up with the drop you can use a drop kit to lower the tie rod ends. The arm spindle needed to be heated up and bent flat to take out the factory bend or curve. Then I stopped hitting my shock. I hae a dropped front axle and reversed main leaves with every other leaf removed.
I don't have a F1, but I've lowered my 56 about as much as it will go. I'm not running the dropped axle, because everyone I've spoken to who knows anything about straight axle suspensions told me not to go with a drop axle. I did put a set of reverse eye springs and had three leafs in the front. I had zero travel. The axle was sitting on the frame bumper and I even cut those to a 1/4". I had to add one more leaf which made a big difference on the ride and how I hit bumps. You can go low, but clearance is an issue. The back I did the hangers, but still running the regular leafs with 3 leafs. With a 9" rear end, I have to watch the clearance of the bellhousing and wood bed. If you really want to get low, I'd recommend spending your money on air ride suspension or air bags. The lower you go with the stock suspension, the more you sacrifice in ride quality.