Rear end locked up??? help..
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,430
Likes: 2
From: NH
Rear end locked up??? help..
68 F250.
I posted this question in the axle section but got no replies after 3 days.
Drove 20 minutes to where I was headed to. Got there and everything was fine. Unloaded truck, about 15 minutes, and when went to leave truck wouldn't move. Got truck to crawl in 1st gear and Reverse. Limped it to a repair shop near by where we jacked rear end up. Both rear tires were locked tigh even after backing the shoes off all the way. I started the reuck up on jack stands and put it in first gear. THe driver side tire spum but as soon as I put the clutch in the rear tire stopped instantly.
Got towed home and afte rthe truck sat (detween waiting for the tow truck and the ride home) about 1.75 hours the truck roleld freely down the driveway with just the clutch in.
am I thinking correct in that I have at least one bad bearing in the rear end or could it be somthing else???
I posted this question in the axle section but got no replies after 3 days.
Drove 20 minutes to where I was headed to. Got there and everything was fine. Unloaded truck, about 15 minutes, and when went to leave truck wouldn't move. Got truck to crawl in 1st gear and Reverse. Limped it to a repair shop near by where we jacked rear end up. Both rear tires were locked tigh even after backing the shoes off all the way. I started the reuck up on jack stands and put it in first gear. THe driver side tire spum but as soon as I put the clutch in the rear tire stopped instantly.
Got towed home and afte rthe truck sat (detween waiting for the tow truck and the ride home) about 1.75 hours the truck roleld freely down the driveway with just the clutch in.
am I thinking correct in that I have at least one bad bearing in the rear end or could it be somthing else???
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,062
Likes: 35
From: Central Oregon
Was the axle bearing hot? Have you checked the oil level? When you backed off the brakes, did you pull the drum off the side that would not turn? Had something like this happen to my Galaixe, the brake shoe broke and doubled up on itself and locked up.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,430
Likes: 2
From: NH
At the shop the guy put an infrared type heat meter on all the backing plates and 3 were 120 deg and 1 was 230 deg. The brakes are new all around. Oil level in rear end was fine also.
After the truck sat for about 2 hours the rear end was no longer locked up.
The odo reads 42K but is most likely 142K or maybe even 242K. I do know the truck sat for about a year (mayby a little over a year) before I got it. I watched it sit as I passed it avery day to and from work before I decided to stop and take a look at it.
After the truck sat for about 2 hours the rear end was no longer locked up.
The odo reads 42K but is most likely 142K or maybe even 242K. I do know the truck sat for about a year (mayby a little over a year) before I got it. I watched it sit as I passed it avery day to and from work before I decided to stop and take a look at it.
Last edited by 7283-F250; Aug 11, 2006 at 07:15 AM.
!["Beemer Nut"'s Avatar](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%23bc5285' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>"</text></svg>)
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
Sounds like you replaced the master cylinder also. The piston in the M/C isn't retracted back enough for the fluid return port to be exposed, brake system and fluid gets warm then has no place to go so moves the wheel cylinders out hence brakes applied. Check that both reservoirs in the master cylinder have the ports open without brake applied, should make a small fountain when the brakes are just applied slowly, careful don't get splashed in the eyes. This will require a helper. Are you running manual or power brakes?
I bet 10 to 1 the hot drum was right rear, was the parking brake adjusted correctly and the spring on th shoe linkage retracting the cable completely?
This is another known problem. At the E brake cable split, one into 2 cable I have found it better to run two of those long springs that help the cable to return, less chance to drag a shoe.
.....=o&o>.....
I bet 10 to 1 the hot drum was right rear, was the parking brake adjusted correctly and the spring on th shoe linkage retracting the cable completely?
This is another known problem. At the E brake cable split, one into 2 cable I have found it better to run two of those long springs that help the cable to return, less chance to drag a shoe.
.....=o&o>.....
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Aug 11, 2006 at 11:46 AM.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,430
Likes: 2
From: NH
wow that does sound like it might be it.
I did not change the master cylinder.
It was the left rear that was 230 degrees.
I also thought about it and after the rear shoes were backed off the rear tires were able to be moved by hand but were still really tight.
They are drum all around and power.... So power drum..... It has the large round vaccuum thingy(brake booster) behind the master cylinder.
So your saying my whole problem might be a $20 master cylinder?????
I did not change the master cylinder.
It was the left rear that was 230 degrees.
I also thought about it and after the rear shoes were backed off the rear tires were able to be moved by hand but were still really tight.
They are drum all around and power.... So power drum..... It has the large round vaccuum thingy(brake booster) behind the master cylinder.
So your saying my whole problem might be a $20 master cylinder?????
Last edited by 7283-F250; Aug 12, 2006 at 11:44 AM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
No cheaper than that.
You may have the fluid return port blocked off, booster plunger too long to not allowing fluid to return into the MC. This plunger has an adjustment to make longer or shorter. You need to check that the ports (front and rear) are open before the pedal is depressed. With a slight plunger movement it should close off the ports front and rear to create pressure in the brake system.
Another thought, is that MC a rusty sludge mess where the small fluid return ports are plugged up with crap preventing fluid return?
.....=o&o>.....
You may have the fluid return port blocked off, booster plunger too long to not allowing fluid to return into the MC. This plunger has an adjustment to make longer or shorter. You need to check that the ports (front and rear) are open before the pedal is depressed. With a slight plunger movement it should close off the ports front and rear to create pressure in the brake system.
Another thought, is that MC a rusty sludge mess where the small fluid return ports are plugged up with crap preventing fluid return?
.....=o&o>.....
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,430
Likes: 2
From: NH
Ok....
Well I'm still a rookie at some things. Changinf a MC is no problems but checking and testing. Well besides requiring some brains requires some know how. What will I need to look at and/or for to see if the ports are correct or should I just not play with it and just replace it. Could I rebuild it or is the MC like the brake pistons and new ones are $1 more than a rebuild kit? I know a new one is only like $20 but if a rebuilt kit is $5 thats like $15 saved so I can start the truck
(you know turn the key and the FE drinks 3 gallons ). J/K I don't even think about gas for this thing because if I did I'd....... I don't know what I'd do.....
I also want to make sure it is the Mc and not really the bearings in the rear because I don't wanna get stuck again durring my test drive.
And you said somthing about the booster plunger. Where is that adjustemt?
I'm still learning here and probably still will be learning 20 years from now.
Thank you for everything so far...
Well I'm still a rookie at some things. Changinf a MC is no problems but checking and testing. Well besides requiring some brains requires some know how. What will I need to look at and/or for to see if the ports are correct or should I just not play with it and just replace it. Could I rebuild it or is the MC like the brake pistons and new ones are $1 more than a rebuild kit? I know a new one is only like $20 but if a rebuilt kit is $5 thats like $15 saved so I can start the truck
(you know turn the key and the FE drinks 3 gallons ). J/K I don't even think about gas for this thing because if I did I'd....... I don't know what I'd do.....I also want to make sure it is the Mc and not really the bearings in the rear because I don't wanna get stuck again durring my test drive.
And you said somthing about the booster plunger. Where is that adjustemt?
I'm still learning here and probably still will be learning 20 years from now.
Thank you for everything so far...
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
The adjustment is between the booster and MC on the end of the plunger. First you must check that the return ports are clear and open before any adjusting is done. You should see fluid **** upward thru the reservoir fluid when the pedal is depressed the first 1/2", this requires a helper and you should see this in both front and rear reservoirs.
Are you sure the E brake is adjusted correctly and is releasing completly, your not dragging the E brake shoe are you?
This is one reason I rarely use the E brake besides having two springs at the cable split to help retract the cable.
.....=o&o>.....
Are you sure the E brake is adjusted correctly and is releasing completly, your not dragging the E brake shoe are you?
This is one reason I rarely use the E brake besides having two springs at the cable split to help retract the cable.
.....=o&o>.....
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Aug 14, 2006 at 09:41 AM.
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New User
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Here is an illustration (of the 78 trucks) of the measurement beemer is talking about.
It may include your truck as well.
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...trations2.html
It may include your truck as well.
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...trations2.html
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
Thanks Mil1on I made a copy for my future reference.
Thing that puzzles me is nothing was changed on that trucks MC and booster and now he has problems. Hope he gets is squared away before it becomes reply number 50.
.....=o&o>.....
Thing that puzzles me is nothing was changed on that trucks MC and booster and now he has problems. Hope he gets is squared away before it becomes reply number 50.
.....=o&o>.....
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,430
Likes: 2
From: NH
It might get to post #50
Right now I have 2 trucks down.
My (insert foreign brand here starting with T) got denied inspection due to oil leak and that has turned into a head gasket repalcement. That head gasket repalcement turned into a 2nd head gasket replacement. Hopefully it wll be done tonight and I can move onto the '68.
Having 3 hours a day (Mon-Fri) makes it tough to get things done.
And thank you for the diagrams. I've changed out MC before but never had to play with the plungers. Just drain unbolt, rebolt and fill. It was also 80's F-series
Right now I have 2 trucks down.
My (insert foreign brand here starting with T) got denied inspection due to oil leak and that has turned into a head gasket repalcement. That head gasket repalcement turned into a 2nd head gasket replacement. Hopefully it wll be done tonight and I can move onto the '68.
Having 3 hours a day (Mon-Fri) makes it tough to get things done.
And thank you for the diagrams. I've changed out MC before but never had to play with the plungers. Just drain unbolt, rebolt and fill. It was also 80's F-series
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