Squeaking a/c compressor thingy
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From: northern michigan
Squeaking a/c compressor thingy
My a/c compressor wheel squeels with the a/c off or on. if i spray inside where the bearings are when the a/c is off with wd-40 it stops for a minute then starts again. what do i have to replace to stop the squeeling.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: St Louis
It's called the clutch pulley and requires either a special tool or a big strap wrench and a specific snap ring plier to replace.
Go to www.motorcraft.com and look up YB522.
Steve
Go to www.motorcraft.com and look up YB522.
Steve
Last edited by projectSHO89; Aug 11, 2006 at 09:20 AM.
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I suck at adding links but if this link does not work cut and paste it....
It is a step by step for replacing the clutch. It has some illustrations to help give you an idea.
http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl168i.htm
This is actually my weekend project. I am having some issues. Mainly with accessing the pulley. I wanted to remove the fan and shroud to get access. Well you need a special holding tool on the fan/clutch/pulley. the parts stores were closed so I ran to WalMart to see if they had those large rubber strap wrenchs but of course...No.
So I just removed the skid plate and I'm working from the underside.
I got the clutch off. I went to autozone earlier and they loan out tools. I used the clutch holding tool. It worked fine. that is held in by a 8mm bolt. then there is a snap ring which took a bit to get out due to the angle. now I'm trying to get the pulley off with the pulley puller tool which is also on loan. My current problem is the type of puller has a notch to surround the pulley, well it is too small for my pully by like 1/4". I will be working on it today. Hopefully with better luck. For the record, autozone sells the clutch pulley for $105. and of course at this point a new belt....about $30
It is a step by step for replacing the clutch. It has some illustrations to help give you an idea.
http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl168i.htm
This is actually my weekend project. I am having some issues. Mainly with accessing the pulley. I wanted to remove the fan and shroud to get access. Well you need a special holding tool on the fan/clutch/pulley. the parts stores were closed so I ran to WalMart to see if they had those large rubber strap wrenchs but of course...No.
So I just removed the skid plate and I'm working from the underside.
I got the clutch off. I went to autozone earlier and they loan out tools. I used the clutch holding tool. It worked fine. that is held in by a 8mm bolt. then there is a snap ring which took a bit to get out due to the angle. now I'm trying to get the pulley off with the pulley puller tool which is also on loan. My current problem is the type of puller has a notch to surround the pulley, well it is too small for my pully by like 1/4". I will be working on it today. Hopefully with better luck. For the record, autozone sells the clutch pulley for $105. and of course at this point a new belt....about $30
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Well, it's all done and working...(knock on wood)
Like I said, the puller was not deep enough to grab the back of the pulley, so I managed to get it off by hooking it on to the front lip. But then the bearing race stayed on. So I had to pull that off. then the Electro part stayed on and had to pull that. There were all these questions on which spacer/washer to use....I just used the original. I found some info. around and said it was usually pretty safe. Afterwards I measured and it was fine.
Putting everything back on was pretty simple. The Serpentine belt was kind of a pain. Getting the leverage on the tensioner was rough.
Anyway, the truck is as quiet as the day it rolled off the lot!!!!
And I saved a few hundred bucks
Like I said, the puller was not deep enough to grab the back of the pulley, so I managed to get it off by hooking it on to the front lip. But then the bearing race stayed on. So I had to pull that off. then the Electro part stayed on and had to pull that. There were all these questions on which spacer/washer to use....I just used the original. I found some info. around and said it was usually pretty safe. Afterwards I measured and it was fine.
Putting everything back on was pretty simple. The Serpentine belt was kind of a pain. Getting the leverage on the tensioner was rough.
Anyway, the truck is as quiet as the day it rolled off the lot!!!!
And I saved a few hundred bucks
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I wasted a lot of time trying to work from the top of the engine. Knowing now that it could be done from the underside. I would say I could do it again in 2 hours, knowing the tricks and tools needed.
I don't know if it is possible, but I wish I would have tried to loosen the "Large" fan nut while the serp belt was still on. that and maybe a wrench on the small bolts may have been enough leverage to pop it loose. That way the fan and shroud could have come out. The fan and shroud are the biggest obsticles in this job. It is in the way of conncecting the puller, tapping the new clutch/bearing into place.
I don't know if it is possible, but I wish I would have tried to loosen the "Large" fan nut while the serp belt was still on. that and maybe a wrench on the small bolts may have been enough leverage to pop it loose. That way the fan and shroud could have come out. The fan and shroud are the biggest obsticles in this job. It is in the way of conncecting the puller, tapping the new clutch/bearing into place.
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jrickc
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Jun 4, 2005 04:01 PM