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Now that I have my points set correctly and my truck runs now... I still get an occasional backfire through the exhaust.....When the points weren't set correctly it blew my muffler in half.
What adjustment or check measure needs to be made..
Hm, could be quite a few things. Have you checked the dwell yet - the feeler gauge method gets you in the ballpark you'll want to be at 26 to 29 right in there - Did you install new points - and a new condensor?
Also, check for a cracked distributor cap, and check your wires -- if two adjacent wires run parallel with each other for a bit one can induce a voltage into the other, firing at the wrong time, causing backfire. Wires should 'cross' each other to prevent this.
Make sure your firing order is correct -- that is, the right wire is going to the right cylinder. You can swap a couple around and most people wouldn't even notice!
I installed my wires a short while ago, I could have a wire on a wrong cylinder...What's the numbering order on the cap...is there a wa that you can tell?
The Y-Block is a bit different then later V8's.. this may be your problem. The firing order is 1 5 4 8 6 3 7 2, in that order, counter-clockwise on the dist. cap.
OK. Ray, you're not afraid to tear into something which is good, but you've got to take the time to do it right the first time -- it wastes time and is hard on the equipment.
You're standing in front of your truck, hood open. What a beautiful, clean engine! The left side (where the battery lives) starting from the front of the engine is the #1, 2, 3, and 4 cylinders, the right side starting from the front is #5, 6, 7, and 8 cylinders.
The crankshaft turns clockwise, the distributor anti-clockwise. The firing order is 1,5,4,8,6,3,7,2 - different than later Ford's!!! So, the first distributor cap wire in firing order will be the #1 (look on top of the cap) wire and will go all the way to the front 'left' of the engine. Keep going through, you'll know when you are done when there aren't any more wires.
Ray.
Re check your gap. The little rubbing block has to wear in to the dirib and it takes about an hour of running or so. I've had points close up .004 in just a few minutues of running and causeing back fires. Re-gap and double check the timming. The timming should not move much if you re-gap to the same gap.
Dwell: It is the amount of time, measured in degrees of rotation (out of a 360 circle) of the distributor shaft, that the points "dwell" together - remain closed, that is. A minimum dwell is necessary to make a strong 12V circuit inside the coil, which builds a strong magnetic field (just like an electromagnet), which, when it collapses, generates a strong spark in the secondary ignition circuit. Too little dwell means weak or no spark because the magnetic field isn't strong enough, and too much dwell, when the points stay together too long, doesn't break the circuit long enough to allow the magnetic field to collapse.
Ray, setting the points gap sets an INITIAL dwell. You use a dwell meter to get the final and best dwell. If you have a "conflict" between a measured gap and dwell, go with the dwell.
If you use steel (instead of brass or stainless steel) feeler gauges, you may be getting an inaccurate reading - hence an incorrect dwell, and possible backfiring.
Try setting the correct dwell with a dwell meter, and ensure you have a good capacitor, clean points, and good cap and rotor.
Ray, Replace the damaged muffler and I think the noise you are hearing (backfire) will cease. As soon as you can install a pertronix Ignitor and forget about points forever.
William in Atlanta.