[updated:LAST EDITED ON 04-Apr-02 AT 03:25 PM (EST)]Yeah, it's me again.

Ok, just scored a replacement rag joint for this 66 F250 camper special. (Can't believe Advance Auto Parts had the thing in stock, as well as the brake light switch!)

So- I removed the two bolts that go through the rag joint. And- I'm stumped. The old one refuses to let go. It's hung up on the two pins which are attached to the lower flange.

So- the question of the day, for 20 points, and a chance at the bonus round- what do I need to do to get this old one out and the new one in?

I loosened the 1/2 inch nut on the column shaft, which allowed me to move the internal steering column shaft UP, that wasn't too tough. There's two pins on the lower flange, which have a metal "retainer" of some sort which apparently holds the pin in place during assembly?

I just am not sure what to try next- do these two pins pound up and out from the underside?

Needless to say, I'm trying to do this intelligently, and not doing more work than I need to. Or worse- break something in the process.

Any help from someone that's been down this road is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
Steve

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 04-Apr-02 AT 04:36 PM (EST)]More info...

The replacement rag joint kit also included two "pins". One is a large headed chrome pin, which is threaded on one end , the other is a black pin with threads, but with ridges near the head, apparently to work as a press fit pin.
[img src="http://www.hilltopdesign.com/truck/ragjointparts.jpg"]

I am sorely tempted to just stick the new rubber disc in over the old one, but that won't do much, since then the two pins won't hook up with the upper flange. Besides, that'd be too easy.


The replacement part is made by Motormite, and the package says "Various Ford Vehicles 1974 and up", but the parts dude assures me this will do the trick. The rubber disc IS the same size, same hole configuration, so I believe him, but I suspect these two new pins are parts to rebuild a 74 and up Ford and won't come into play for my needs. Although both pins on the flange are worn almost in half- the steering on this truck for quite some time has been held in place by these two pins. And the flanges- they are "flared back" on either side where these pins ride- I can't tell if it's supposed to be this way, or if this is the result of years of hard use and pressure from this joint letting loose a long time ago.

All I'm trying to do is to free up the old rubber ring that's in there now, but one of the pins has either a copper or brass "tab" that slips over one of the pins and wraps around the side of the rubber ring. I don't want to start pounding away with a hammer until I hear back from someone how these are SUPPOSED to come out.

I'm lost.. can you tell? Haha! Ahh, but it'll be worth it.
(chanting my new mantra)
"It'll be worth it.. It'll be worth it.. It'll be worth it..It'll be worth it.."

 

Why dont you take the one you have back to where you got it and get the one that fits at your
Ford dealer. The brass tab is the ground for the ground for the horn.
You should be able to use a pry bar to get the flex coupleing off the stearing box.


FORDS WILL BE RUNNING LONG AFTER THE GENERAL MOTORS JUNK IS ON THE SCRAP HEAP

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 19-Apr-02 AT 02:52 PM (EST)]I'll see what I can pull up for you this evening on puling your rag joint. I have the Factory manual at home on CD, and as far as that brass piece being a ground for the horn, the only ground for the horn are through the horns themselves.....


Kyle
Dayton, Texas

 

Thanks gang- I'm past this part now. See https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID34/1615.html for the latest.

Thanks

 

 

Hi there. See my reply on your other rag joint post. Basically, grind those pins(side closest to steering gear box) and knockem' out.Its not too hard, but be careful in there. I used a 4 or 4.5in Dewalt grinder and a dremel w/ a burr bit. It took me about 30 minutes to get them out. Good luck.