I have a few consecutive days off work and I was thinking of parking the truck in the shade and taking some leaves out of the springs to get it down some. I've heard that the general procedure is every other leaf. Anyone have any tips? Here are some specifics:

- The rears are 7 leaves, counting the 3 helper springs. If I just take out the helper springs, will that lower the truck any more than just the thickness of the leaves? Is it safe to take out the helpers plus one, leaving 3 leaves? If I do so, should I take out leaf #4 or leaf #3?

- The front springs are six leaves. Do I start removing leaves at #6 or #5? The front springs also have about an inch or two of travel before they hit the bump stop, which is set pretty far back. Can I cut the bump stop down so it's shorter? Can I move it directly above the axle? Can I do both?

- Will the U-bolts have enough threads on them to compensate for the shorter thickness of the springs with fewer leaves? What bolts/bushings would it be wise to replace? The oldest ones are 2 years old.

- Will a set of almost-dead shocks still work when the truck is lowered? If not, will I survive with no shocks?

I know I'm asking a lot of questions here, but help is greatly appreciated.

 

Bump .....

 

There is an FTE technical article on this entitled Methods of Lowering Ride of F1/F-100s which should answer most of your questions about removing leaves. I would not run less than 4 leaves in the rear. You can shorten the bump stops or move them but be sure you don't eliminate them. "Almost dead" shocks? If they are almost dead now... lowering the truck will not revive them.

I suppose it's a matter of opinon but I would never run without shocks.

Vern

 

Well I know it won't revive them ... I just hear that you're supposed to run shorter shocks when you lower your vehicle, and I was wondering if the weak shocks would just adjust to the height.

 

I don't follow you. The shock working at a different height would have nothing to do with it's condition. If it's worn out at the current height, it will be worn out at a shorter height. After you have lowered it get new shocks that will work more in the middle of their travel than at one end or the other.

Vern

 

I can't find that article ... do you happen to have a link?

Also, how do I choose a shock absorber once my ride height is no longer stock?

 

If you look at the posting entitled Lowering Rear, Ferguson listed a link that will take you there. On my truck I wanted to use certain shocks so I tailored the shock mounts so that the particular shocks I used could not bottom out if fully compressed and would not be fully extended when the weight was off of them. I measured them fully extended and totally compressed, pulled them apart to the center of that distance and then set the shock mount distance. There may be a better way but that worked for me.

Vern

 

This article is saying that on an 8-leaf spring, keep "#1, #3, #5, #7, and the main leaf." Does that mean I should just remove every other leaf including the helper springs? Should I leave one leaf or two out of the 3 helper leaves?

 

I am currently lowering the front of my 59......
Here is what i have done so far.
New shocks was a huge improvement on the ride....don't mess with old worn out junk, they cost $40.
To lower the front so far i have found by removing the only the shortest leaf i have dropped 3/4". removing the 1st and 2nd shortest leaf the drop was 1 1/2"
I haven't test drove the truck with the 2 leaves out as i think that might be too much drop......maybe not i am still working on that one.
The U bolts will be plenty long enough. Clean the threads and use new lock washers.
The bump stop can be cut down.....I think it could be relocated also.
I have seen trucks with no bump stop and if you have enough clearance and stay as a street truck it should be okay.

 

I don't think it will matter much as long as you end up with a minimum of 4-5 leaves...

Vern