This has been discussed before but x code springs on the front of the excursion really is the way ford should have built it from the factory.

Let me also say this...Even if you get some out of the bone yard...again, DO IT! Even used X springs will really make a big difference.

The ride is fantastic, the whole vehicle just drives more solid. How much lift really depends on the shape of your current excursion springs.

I did not touch the rear springs as they already had a helper spring on them and the whole machine had a significant amount of rake.

Just real quick what to do and

jack up as high as you can. the higher the better. I used a 100 ton bottle jack on a 6x6 block and jacked the frame one side then the other. I raised it very high...more on that later.

Tall jack stands under the frame. Make sure they are far enough behind the shackles to allow room to work on that shackle and the full range of it.

You need at the very least one other jack stand preference being a very small one and one floor jack.

Two floor jacks make it easier.

Take the bumper off. Simple. Two front bolts near the tow hooks and one bolt back behind. Make sure you get the fog light bulbs out!!!

Next remove the one small support bracket holding the auxiliary radiator. You will see it by the bolt head on front leaf spring front bolt.

Remove the bottom shock bolt.

Do one side at a time. Allow the axle to hang as far as the current leaf spring will allow. On the side you are working with ( do one side at a time) Put the floor jack under the axle and take the weight off that specific spring. You can allow the other side to hang by the leaf spring.

Once weight is off spring remove the bolts. Front Spring eye bolt, rear shackle bolt,and loosen the top shackle bolt to allow the shackle to move with just your hand, the two u-bolts. If you feel the front leaf spring bolt is hard coming out you still have weight on the spring or you have it jacked up too far and a counter pressure against that bolt. You may need to tap on it some with a hammer and punch.

Once all bolts are out, you may need to hit the bottom of the old spring to separate it from the spring perch on the axle.

Your old spring is now free. Wire brush the spring perch if you wish and anywhere else you wish now.

Put in new spring. Make sure the pin goes in the hole inside the spring perch/pad. Next while moving the jack up or down, and moving the shackle freely with your hand...put the bolts in the front and back. Finger tighten these bolts only at this point. Again do not forget to loosen the top shackle bolt.
Put the u-bolts on and tighten but only enough to keep the spring from separating from the perch. Very important and will save you from fighting with this later.

replace the aux radiator support...and remove on the other side.

Repeat all those steps on the other side in removing the spring.

Once the new spring is on the other side, pin in the perch, front eyelet bolt in, and u-bots tightened up ( again only tight enough to keep the spring pin from walking out of the hole, you might find your axle slanted, meaning the back of the leaf spring a few inches from going into the shackle. This is where another person comes in really handy...and second floor jack or both. . If this happens you will need to have someone pull on the axle opposite side while you pull the shackle down over the leaf spring eyelet. If they can't pull on the axle its because you have it jacked up ( the axle). and now is the time to allow the leaf springs only to hold the axle. )

Once in you can start zipping all this up. Rear shackle upper bolts, lower bolts, front eyelet bolts, u-bolts. Shocks in. On with the shocks...this will need to be addressed. You can bolt up the old ones but they will suffer in performance because the distance is now different. Moreover your old springs are probably worn out along with your old shocks and this is a great time to freshen those up as well. Even if using used x springs.

i am not going to preach to you about using new u-bolts. It is recommended that you do but I will leave it at that.....

Drive for 100 miles and check all bolts again.

Things you could remove to possibly help...
drive shaft
sway bar ( only from the drop links)
brake calipers if only one person doing this (no stress on the lines as two people someone can keep an eye on those. )


Do not remove the track bar.

In the end this is a fairly easy job. If you find yourself stuck and something wont line up, allow everything to free hang (provided you have the u-bolts on and the front spring eye bolt in... and try again.

if you have stock springs only in the back you may find your vehicle now nose high. Of course there are many ways to address the rear spring situation.

One drive after the swap and you will be smiling. For sure.

Good luck!!

 

Pics are required here........ you know the drill !!

 

I bought my truck a few weeks ago and have been fixing it up, it appears that the shocks/springs are original.
My van rides like a dream compared to the Excursion as i am always battling the steering as it seems to
want to sway from side to side.
Anyways i plan on taking it in to a spring shop, is their another way of asking them what i want other then saying X code springs? Such as F250 spring from year XXXX and so on........
My steering shock is leaking but i don't think that would be causing the crappy ride....
T.I.A.

 

No, your steering stabilizer leaking won't cause what you're feeling.
Check the tech stickys at the top of the page for the full details... But basically (for a 4x4) you can use X or V code springs from a 99-04 F250/350 for the front. You can change to B or C code rear springs from a 99-07 F250/350. Find a 30mm rear sway bar from a 99-07 F350. You can adjust height as wanted or needed (see stickys). Vehicle Transformed!

 

'99 - '04 front springs fit.

 

Nice write up! The difference in ride quality really is night and day!


_Junior

 

I used to live in Red Hill....Small world, if only I had an EX back then...

-Art

 

Mike, let me tell you the best way to tell someone really is by saying "X" code springs. Trust me when I tell you that any shop worth anything will have no problem finding a set of X code springs. Tell them this....Say you want a set of X code springs for a f-250 or f-350 year 2002.

The years that will work are 99-04 but giving them a specific year to run with will work.
Say they need to be "X" code springs from a 2002 F-250 with no exceptions and you will be set up. I assure you again they will have no problem with this. If you want I can even show you where to get some near you very cheap.

As far as sawing at the steering wheel you speak of...You could have a worn out joint or two...but I would bet your front springs and shocks are beyond dead.

Yes I can tell you that not only did this swap improve the ride quality (I love a more solid ride) it also took a ton of the wheel sawing away.

A stabilizer can help but make no mistake it will NOT make you go from sawing at the wheel to dead steady. It will only help it a little bit.

 

Additional info about the SuperDuty X code front springs, they came on snow plow prepped F-250 and F-350 trucks as well as being the factory front springs on F-550 trucks. They are still just a 2 leaf pack like our stockers but are rated at 6,000 lbs per set (3000lbs per spring pack). Many aftermarket spring shops sell springs identified as X codes that are actually the same spec as Ford's V code spec, so be sure to get the full specs for a shop's springs before laying down your money.

 

It does make a huge difference huh?! When I did mine it felt like a whole new truck. With just the fronts done, it looked like I was hauling butt everywhere I went because of the nose up rake I got. I only drove like that for a week before I got my rear C Codes on. What did you decide to do for the rear?

Some times the scrap yards will play stupid with you and want infortmation like what vehicle is it for, blah blah... It's nice to find a scrap yard that will work with you, but sometimes you have to play their game. Also many of them see it is a liability to let you go and look at the door code. In honesty, unless I was REALLY hurting for the money, straight up get them from Junior at ATS.

I noticed that on some of the websites I was looking at. Thankfully I had seen that spring chart that's floating around here on FTE and noticed a difference before I made the purchase.

 

I did the fronts as well then drove 2 hours at 75mph home to do the rears. I wonder what people thought I was hauling making it sit that way. I too read about how great it makes these trucks ride. After doing it I can agree that its not all hype, it is that much better. I am now shopping for a new open car hauler. One with at least 5200lb axles and then I can see how she tows weight.

 

You must have looked like the guy I saw @ Lowes....... driving a 1/2 ton Dodge with two, yes TWO tons of wood pellets in the back. I can't believe they help load someone like that.

 

Bro-lean takes some getting used to.

Ford Truck Picture by wpnaes | 880196 | Ford-Trucks.com

 

ive been duped .

 

A new truck? Yes indeed. Everything just became more solid. Steering included. This is how they should have been built from day 1.


What am I doing about the rear? I'm sort of on the fence with it.There is some sort helper and or block on there now as I had a fairly significant amount of rake to the vehicle.
Now it sits about level. It might be a tad nose high now but one really has to stare it down to see it. If I make myself look for the nose high perception even then it is very hard to see. Maybe 1/2 " nose high. Not much more if even that. I'm ok with that little bit.


I have p285 70/16 on there now and they fit sssoooooo much better now. Areas that I would bottom out before are long gone.


It really needs a nice set of 33 x 13.50 wide tires. yes 13.50 wide tires. I haven't cruised the tire charts as of late to see who makes such a size but that would be about a perfect fit now.


The 285's are about a 33ish tire by 11 inches or so but look a tad skinny on there now.


One note on the tires. I have Michelin Ltx at/2 on there now and I must say they are about the best all around tire I have owned.


I've owned many vehicle and some dedicated to hard core off roading,,,,those Michelins while not the sexiest looking tire from afar, up close you can see why they are so good. Deep mud they are fair but in the northeast with snow and ice, soggy sod, wet leaves, etc., they are tremendous. On road the noise is a non issue especially in having a diesel and the on road manners are excellent. They seem to wear good as well.


I do like the look of a fatter tire and of course gain with a wider tire there are short comings as well......but we will see