how do i not get stuck....?
I actually do more sailing in NJ than 4wd but I have a F350 srw crew diesel.
I would get a boat anchor to dig in the ground where ever you get stuck. Instant tree. I would recommend a 'Plow' type anchor. It doesn't have the flat 'flukes' to have to dig out when your done. The blade looks like a snow plow and the shaft should swing side to side to keep the force straight as you wiggle out.
I would also consider a trailer hitch mountable winch. You don't always want to pull yourself further into the mess you have already gotten into. Retreat can be an honorable option in 4wd.
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You did not mention engine, so I am going to assume it is a diesel. Unless it has changed in the last year years since I drove a diesel 4x4 drw cc (Dodge), the problem is you can not rev the engine fast enough to clear the treads. Basically what I do is rev the (gas) engine to sling the mud, then roll back and preceded slowly out of my rut.
Or I just say the heck with it, get a good head start for the hill, floor it, saw the wheel back and forth, head slightly sideways out of the rut, and send 500 pounds of mud airborne
I have gotten my 4x4 van stuck just in my back yard hauling my trailer around in the mud. All I can say is more launching speed and distance is always needed and if you leave pavement expect to get stuck, even in your own backyard if you have mud.
You have to deal with ice. What I would recommend is a set of steel rims and tires just for winter time and keep the off roading adventures to summer time as sinking a dually in mud/ice/snow/slush and getting it unstuck will not be fun (for most people). 12K winch will be okay with a block as long as you do not frame sink it.
I would suggest a very sturdy rear mount and forget the front mount. Because what will happen is with a dually you will start to snowplow the rear tires. They will not have a path cleared and flatten by the front tires.
With a dually you want to pull yourself out backwards in the lowest gear, not dig the pizza cutters up front in further with. I would box in the winch with 1/4" C channel and plate so if someone slides into the rear bumper during winter at a stop sign it does not destroy the winch.
I am planning on making my van, DRW, and the tires I decided would be best would be Intercos, 34s in back, 33x14.50 up front, as someone mentioned.
At least on the Dodge DRW, you can ditch the DRW adapter for the front and just run a regular rim on the 8x6.50 pattern to get the wide tire.
Dealing with ice and a drw in WI I would suggest running green diamond retreads in the winter or studs on all six tires. Though you have to be VERY careful not to slide it through intersections in 2x4 by driving slowly and allow for slow long braking when using studs. You slam on the brakes with studs on a DRW and it is going to be a long sideways slide.
That being said, I think 4x4 DRW trucks are great for on the road traction in adverse conditions! With a load of snow in the bed you might not need to put it in 4x4 during a storm except starting on a steep hill.
In winter I would not do wheeling with it off road because unless you spend a fortune on upgrading it, you will not have the angles or tire height (38s min) to make it over obstacles and if you sink it, it will be a hassle getting unstuck. You are talking a 170+ WB and 8K pounds of truck. Stuck to the frame in slush/mud, 12K winch will not self recover without blocks, a lot of 1/2" cable, and some pretty hefty trees.
You forgot one vital piece of equipment, a hi-lift jack!
If I was going to do any upgrade, before suspension, tires, winch, etc. I would put selectable lockers (since you tow) front and back or at least a LSD in the back. It will make a big difference.
My first vehicle was a 69 Olds I bought for $100. I could only have wished for an awesome truck like yours! I owned pieces of GM junk until I was 21. I would say you are doing awesome
Last edited by rebocardo; Oct 25, 2006 at 12:29 PM.



