Clutch 101
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2006
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Clutch 101
Hey All;
Gawd I've been in these forums for HOURS now just absorbing little bits and bites of info from y'all... and I've had a few giggles too... Like the gentleman who blew the lower portion of his glow plug through the valve cover... OUCH! But I'm really enjoying this wealth of knowledge. Thank you all.
I've been truckin most of my life, so I know a little bit (prolly just enuff to b dangerous ;-) ) about diesels... and drive trains.
This is my first Diesel Pickup. It's a '95 F-350 4door, long bed dually.
In this thread I'd like to discuss the hydraulic clutch. It is my understanding that all hydraulic clutches have a very short stiff push area, and then the pedal will push to the floor very easily. I've no other 1-tons to compare to, but that seems to make sense.
Given that fact, my pedal 1) pushes hard all the way down to the floor. 2) upstroke: Truck begins to roll as soon as the pedal leaves the floor, and then completely engages at about the mid point. 3) It is hard to put in gear. 1st or Reverse. Shifts fine while rolling as long as pedal is all the way to the floor.
4)In '03 the White bushings on the pedal assembly were replaced. 5) Feb this year the Master, Slave and tube 'twixt the two were replaced by FMC dealership that has a good reputation.
I'm told my next step in correcting the problem is to buy a new clutch & pressure plate. Excuse more than one ? in this thread, but they're all related.
1) Is any part of the VIN # used in determining the correct clutch for my truck? One parts place i called told me there are two different clutches for that truck. Their suggestion was to take it out and bring it, they would then match it. S'cuse me... If I disable my vehicle by removing the clutch... how u think I'm gonna git there? Proof positive the south ain't the only ones got dumb rednecks!
2) Are there aftermarket Master n slave cylinders that are more heavy duty. Cuz pardon me for saying OEM's r junk according to the mechs i talk to. I was wondering if maybe somebody manufactured off road or racing applications that would work better. Ok so that one was sorta unrelated.
3) Along the same lines... are there better more heavy duty Clutches & Pressure Plates's available, or is OEM the way to go?
4) Does the kit usually come with a throw out bearing?
While I'm doing the clutch... anyone got tips / suggestions on other things to do / look for. Once I go in there I don't want to have to revisit that area for a long long while. I'm approaching 150k on this clutch / drivetrain (which is pretty good IMHOP) It'd be great to go another 150k with the new parts.
Thanks
'95 F350 dually... work in progress
Gawd I've been in these forums for HOURS now just absorbing little bits and bites of info from y'all... and I've had a few giggles too... Like the gentleman who blew the lower portion of his glow plug through the valve cover... OUCH! But I'm really enjoying this wealth of knowledge. Thank you all.
I've been truckin most of my life, so I know a little bit (prolly just enuff to b dangerous ;-) ) about diesels... and drive trains.
This is my first Diesel Pickup. It's a '95 F-350 4door, long bed dually.
In this thread I'd like to discuss the hydraulic clutch. It is my understanding that all hydraulic clutches have a very short stiff push area, and then the pedal will push to the floor very easily. I've no other 1-tons to compare to, but that seems to make sense.
Given that fact, my pedal 1) pushes hard all the way down to the floor. 2) upstroke: Truck begins to roll as soon as the pedal leaves the floor, and then completely engages at about the mid point. 3) It is hard to put in gear. 1st or Reverse. Shifts fine while rolling as long as pedal is all the way to the floor.
4)In '03 the White bushings on the pedal assembly were replaced. 5) Feb this year the Master, Slave and tube 'twixt the two were replaced by FMC dealership that has a good reputation.
I'm told my next step in correcting the problem is to buy a new clutch & pressure plate. Excuse more than one ? in this thread, but they're all related.
1) Is any part of the VIN # used in determining the correct clutch for my truck? One parts place i called told me there are two different clutches for that truck. Their suggestion was to take it out and bring it, they would then match it. S'cuse me... If I disable my vehicle by removing the clutch... how u think I'm gonna git there? Proof positive the south ain't the only ones got dumb rednecks!
2) Are there aftermarket Master n slave cylinders that are more heavy duty. Cuz pardon me for saying OEM's r junk according to the mechs i talk to. I was wondering if maybe somebody manufactured off road or racing applications that would work better. Ok so that one was sorta unrelated.
3) Along the same lines... are there better more heavy duty Clutches & Pressure Plates's available, or is OEM the way to go?
4) Does the kit usually come with a throw out bearing?
While I'm doing the clutch... anyone got tips / suggestions on other things to do / look for. Once I go in there I don't want to have to revisit that area for a long long while. I'm approaching 150k on this clutch / drivetrain (which is pretty good IMHOP) It'd be great to go another 150k with the new parts.
Thanks
'95 F350 dually... work in progress
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
From: Rising Star, Texas
well my experience and most of these guys will tell u the same thing im fixing to tell u. is get rid of the Dual Mass Flywheel and go with a LUK, Southbend or equivalent with the solid flywheel conversion, comes with pilot, throw out bearing, clutch disk, pressure plate and of course the flywheel. all though the prices will vary on what u get, u can get some for stock on up to higher hp ratings though. i went with one from advanced auto parts with the solid flywheel conversion made by zoom and replaced the clutch fork at the same time. and i have about 10k miles on it and still shifts great before my dual mass flywheel was just about shot, pressure plate had collapsed, clutch disk was almost to the rivets. so take my advice and lots of others go to SMF conversion ull be in love with it lol so to speak. other than while ur down there u might go ahead and replace the slave cylinder and all i didnt but mines still in good shape too. other than that if u want u might go with a true round downpipe though, but thats up to u, makes it easier with the trans out when u put it in and take the old one out. just my opinion and experience, thanks Lance
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Originally Posted by TexasRoughneck
well my experience and most of these guys will tell u the same thing im fixing to tell u. is get rid of the Dual Mass Flywheel and go with a LUK, Southbend or equivalent with the solid flywheel conversion, comes with pilot, throw out bearing, clutch disk, pressure plate and of course the flywheel. all though the prices will vary on what u get, u can get some for stock on up to higher hp ratings though. i went with one from advanced auto parts with the solid flywheel conversion made by zoom and replaced the clutch fork at the same time. and i have about 10k miles on it and still shifts great before my dual mass flywheel was just about shot, pressure plate had collapsed, clutch disk was almost to the rivets. so take my advice and lots of others go to SMF conversion ull be in love with it lol so to speak. other than while ur down there u might go ahead and replace the slave cylinder and all i didnt but mines still in good shape too. other than that if u want u might go with a true round downpipe though, but thats up to u, makes it easier with the trans out when u put it in and take the old one out. just my opinion and experience, thanks Lance
Pardon my ignorance... but what is a LUK ? How do u know I have a "dual mass flywheel?" I was told some 95's had a solid. If I do have a dual mass and decide to replace as u advise... and I am planning future power upgrades... which flywheel should I look at? and they sell the whole assembly in a kit form? Flywheel, clutch pressure plate and bearing? We must be talkin big $$$!
SMF conversion?
Well I know that the Master and slave cylinders are new this year. What is the clutch fork? Dang if I didn't used to know the parts to a clutch system, but with age comes CRS!!! Does it need to b replaced much?
[QUOTE = 1997F-350] get a south bend con ofe. good to 450 hp.
the stock slave/master will work fine with one.
oem definitely not the way to go.
[/QUOTE]Ok.. again... ignorance on my part. what does con ofe mean? Thanks both of ya... Frank
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,948
Likes: 2
From: SHELTON, WA
most kits (yes they have all the parts required including flywheel) range from 600-1100 bucks which is still way under the price of an oem unit which you couldnt pay me to buy.
different kinds of south bends available. i didnt think i should add the double disk pulling clutch to the list..
Options Available:
1. Con O - Using 2 Performance Organic Facings
2. Con OFE - Using 1 Performance Organic & 1 Feramic Facing
3. Con FE - Using 2 Feramic Facings
Our part numbers are as follows:
94-98 Power Stroke - MU 1944 5sp - Stock Power
94-98 Power Stroke - MU 1944 Con O 5 sp - 350 hp, 750 ft lbs of torque
94-98 Power Stroke - MU 1944 Con OFE 5 sp - 450 hp, 900 ft lbs of torque
94-98 Power Stroke - MU 1944 Con FE 5 sp - 550 hp, 1100 ft lbs of torque
i suggest if you are going to order any clutch you do it through a diesel shop. it will be cheaper than a parts store.
i hear every now and then about a luk failing. still lots of people run them and its a good clutch. cant say i have ever heard one bad thing about a south bend. they also have a kevlar pilot bushing.
south bend site
different kinds of south bends available. i didnt think i should add the double disk pulling clutch to the list..
Options Available:
1. Con O - Using 2 Performance Organic Facings
2. Con OFE - Using 1 Performance Organic & 1 Feramic Facing
3. Con FE - Using 2 Feramic Facings
Our part numbers are as follows:
94-98 Power Stroke - MU 1944 5sp - Stock Power
94-98 Power Stroke - MU 1944 Con O 5 sp - 350 hp, 750 ft lbs of torque
94-98 Power Stroke - MU 1944 Con OFE 5 sp - 450 hp, 900 ft lbs of torque
94-98 Power Stroke - MU 1944 Con FE 5 sp - 550 hp, 1100 ft lbs of torque
i suggest if you are going to order any clutch you do it through a diesel shop. it will be cheaper than a parts store.
i hear every now and then about a luk failing. still lots of people run them and its a good clutch. cant say i have ever heard one bad thing about a south bend. they also have a kevlar pilot bushing.
south bend site
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 13,653
Likes: 6
From: Cabot, Arkansas
Originally Posted by Drag_N_Fly_One
ok my TX friend. I reckon you've been improvin yor englais some btw
Pardon my ignorance... but what is a LUK ? How do u know I have a "dual mass flywheel?" I was told some 95's had a solid. If I do have a dual mass and decide to replace as u advise... and I am planning future power upgrades... which flywheel should I look at? and they sell the whole assembly in a kit form? Flywheel, clutch pressure plate and bearing? We must be talkin big $$$!
SMF conversion?
Well I know that the Master and slave cylinders are new this year. What is the clutch fork? Dang if I didn't used to know the parts to a clutch system, but with age comes CRS!!! Does it need to b replaced much?
Ok.. again... ignorance on my part. what does con ofe mean? Thanks both of ya... Frank
Pardon my ignorance... but what is a LUK ? How do u know I have a "dual mass flywheel?" I was told some 95's had a solid. If I do have a dual mass and decide to replace as u advise... and I am planning future power upgrades... which flywheel should I look at? and they sell the whole assembly in a kit form? Flywheel, clutch pressure plate and bearing? We must be talkin big $$$!
SMF conversion?
Well I know that the Master and slave cylinders are new this year. What is the clutch fork? Dang if I didn't used to know the parts to a clutch system, but with age comes CRS!!! Does it need to b replaced much?
Ok.. again... ignorance on my part. what does con ofe mean? Thanks both of ya... Frank
As far as I am aware, all the Ford trucks with International diesels had dual mass flywheels from 86 through 97. Starting with the 99 model the Single mass came stock.
SMF is single mass flywheel, DMF is the dual mass.
The clutch fork is the piece that holds the release bearing (throwout bearing). When the slave cylinder actuates it pushes against a rod that is seated in the clutch fork, which has a pivot on the opposite side. That action pushes the release bearing against the fingers of the pressure plate and seperates the plate from the clutch. The clutch fork never needs to be replaced unless it bends or breaks.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by 1997F-350
most kits (yes they have all the parts required including flywheel) range from 600-1100 bucks which is still way under the price of an oem unit which you couldnt pay me to buy.
different kinds of south bends available. i didnt think i should add the double disk pulling clutch to the list..
Options Available:
1. Con O - Using 2 Performance Organic Facings
2. Con OFE - Using 1 Performance Organic & 1 Feramic Facing
3. Con FE - Using 2 Feramic Facings
Our part numbers are as follows:
94-98 Power Stroke - MU 1944 5sp - Stock Power
94-98 Power Stroke - MU 1944 Con O 5 sp - 350 hp, 750 ft lbs of torque
94-98 Power Stroke - MU 1944 Con OFE 5 sp - 450 hp, 900 ft lbs of torque
94-98 Power Stroke - MU 1944 Con FE 5 sp - 550 hp, 1100 ft lbs of torque
i suggest if you are going to order any clutch you do it through a diesel shop. it will be cheaper than a parts store.
i hear every now and then about a luk failing. still lots of people run them and its a good clutch. cant say i have ever heard one bad thing about a south bend. they also have a kevlar pilot bushing.
south bend site
different kinds of south bends available. i didnt think i should add the double disk pulling clutch to the list..
Options Available:
1. Con O - Using 2 Performance Organic Facings
2. Con OFE - Using 1 Performance Organic & 1 Feramic Facing
3. Con FE - Using 2 Feramic Facings
Our part numbers are as follows:
94-98 Power Stroke - MU 1944 5sp - Stock Power
94-98 Power Stroke - MU 1944 Con O 5 sp - 350 hp, 750 ft lbs of torque
94-98 Power Stroke - MU 1944 Con OFE 5 sp - 450 hp, 900 ft lbs of torque
94-98 Power Stroke - MU 1944 Con FE 5 sp - 550 hp, 1100 ft lbs of torque
i suggest if you are going to order any clutch you do it through a diesel shop. it will be cheaper than a parts store.
i hear every now and then about a luk failing. still lots of people run them and its a good clutch. cant say i have ever heard one bad thing about a south bend. they also have a kevlar pilot bushing.
south bend site
Correct? They also suggest purchasing thier clutch fork for this upgrade. What do u think? I know in the very neart future DrgnFly1 gonna be haulin some heavy loads.
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Postmaster
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From: SHELTON, WA
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