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99 4.2l shift kit

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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 01:31 AM
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99 4.2l shift kit

Ive got a 99 f150 w/ 4.2. Some of you might remember a post about my transmission acting weird. It acted up for a few days and is now fine. Im going to go ahead and change the fluid though even though it was done about 5k miles ago hoping itll prevent it from happening and and ive also been wanting to get a shift kit so I figured this would be a good time to do so. Do you guys have any suggestions as to which to go with? B&M seems nice,simple,and cheap, transgo seems like its a PITA, and the one im really looking into but not sure how dependable the brand is is one by JET that comes with the actual shift kit and an electronic shift selector to select between stock up to "race". Anyone have some suggestions? Also if it helps I have the transmission code is U which if im correct is 4R70W.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 09:22 AM
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From: duncan oklahoma
i have used the trans-go kit hd/2 in all of my vehicles for years and havent had any problems with them,from mild to wild.and all my vehicles have the aode/4r70w,dont forget to buy a new 2-3 accumulator piston and install it while you do the shift kit.and if you choose some other brand of kit,do not use B&M.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 01:02 PM
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For the 2-3 accumulator piston are you talking new as in aftermarket or one I can stop by ford and pick up as long as I put a new one in there.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 01:10 PM
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i would buy an updated 2-3 piston from ford.the trans-go shift kit comes with a new 1-2 accum.piston.i am just sugesting a new 2-3 accum. because the valve body will be out for the mods to the seperator plate valve replacement and other things.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 06:31 PM
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Sounds good. Is there a noticable difference in the firmness of the shifts with this kit?
 
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 02:43 PM
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From: duncan oklahoma
when i first installed the kit i was hopeing for tire chirping seconds,that didnt happen.what i did get was a very firm shift at half to full throttle threw all the gears.when you are just putting around the shifts a well mannered.i wish someone that has installed this kit would put in there 2 cents.if you install one perform every step exactly in order.there is only one step that is a little misleading and pay close attention to it you have to drill 2 small holes threw a worm pasage that is kinda hard to do .good luck
 
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 08:21 PM
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Thanks for the help. I plan on installing it tomorrow (saturday). Ill let you know how it goes.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 12:11 AM
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It turns out I didnt get the kit until today (sunday) ups delivered it to my neighbor since I wasnt home and she isnt home very much so finally I was able to get it from her today and didnt have enough time to put it in. I do have a slight problem though. It seems that the edge of one of what they call plates is torns. Not too sure what to do about that . Heres a pic. I thought about just giving it a go anyways and hoping thats not the one I have to use. Then again id hate to drain the fluid and it is the one I have to use and end up having to go out and buy more fluid etc.

 

Last edited by ajm859830; Aug 7, 2006 at 12:47 AM.
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 01:24 AM
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The way I read the directions I was wrong. It seemed like they were calling the seperator plate gasket the plate. Just from a quick glance of the directions. Anyways instead of fooling around with shipping it back and having to wait to get a new kit im just going to go down to ford tomorrow before school and try to pick up a new seperator plate gasket. Drilling those 2 holes that you were talking about definetly does seem a bit tricky. Im worried about going crooked and pokin it out the side about half way through.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 09:48 AM
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when i drilled mine it was kinda at a slight angle .make sure you have a very clean place to work on the valve body.only use paper towels for wiping parts,brake clean for cleaning parts and you can use wd-40 for lubing valves for assy.dont use i repeat dont use red rags.the lint will cause a stuck valve.and like i said earlyer go step by step and be precise and check off each step,dont let someone or something destact you or pull you off of the job.sorry to see the torn gasket.take the new one and mach it up to the old one and make sure all the holes line up.not trying to be nosey but how much did you give for your kit.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 01:15 PM
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I paid 120 for it from summit. By the time im done trying to find a gasket It will be about 135 lol.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 03:49 PM
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thats what i paid for mine and was a a local trans shop
 
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 02:55 AM
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Just curious. When you drilled your holes in the plate did you go with taxi-car-truck or the hot rod w/ origional converter sized bit. Im guessing the hot rod w/ origional converter would provide a firmer shift? And did you have any trouble getting the accumulators back into the transmission after chaning the springs due to the stiffness of the springs?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 12:07 PM
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i just went and looked at my directions that i highlighted and i just went with the taxi-truck. the only one i would say be careful with is the 2-3 accumulator.i fits tight .its not to hard to push the springs.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 08:15 PM
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Good news about the gasket problem. I emailed summit about it a few days ago. Today I got a phone call from them. The guy told me they put a new kit in the mail for me today and it would be here tomorrow (wednesday) and they emailed me a UPS label to ship the "bad kit" back to them w/o a charge. Cant go wrong with that. Only other "problem" I have is that I printed out a torque spec sheet for the bolts today at school and I might need a new torque wrench. Mine only goes down to 120 in/lbs and it seems that all bolts except for the pan ones require torque in the 80-100 in/lbs range.
 
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