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I was wondering if anybody else out there has trouble with their E-brake holding when applied?
I always park with my truck in gear when it is shut down, but the e-brake is nice when you stop for just a moment.
I have checked pretty much everything on the system, and can find nothing wrong. I don't know of any adjustments to the e-brake itself. I know you can adjust the rear service brakes, but they are in adjustment.
When I apply the e-brake pedal, it usually goes to the floor with no resistance. If I step on the clutch, I can feel the truck creeping back (or forward). Once in a great while it will actually engage properly.
there is an adjustment for them on the drivers side outside frame rail. on my 88 and 89 it was right behind the cab, straight down from the gas nozzel, its just a long "I" bolt and a plate with a nut on it. just tighten down the nut untill the pedal feels good.
have you guys or anyone else had any trouble with your ebrakes freezing on in the winter? i wrecked my truck cuz i couldnt get the brake off. is this happening in the linkage or in the brakes themselves
Also adjusting the rear brakes seems to help . I have never had a e - brake problem related to winter freezing conditions.Usually rust causes the problem and lack of use. I use it everyday despite being an automatic and it seems to keep it from seizing up. The cable has stretched and I have adjusted the way chrono4 says.
Yeah, the cables will sieze with lack of use, especially in the Northern states.
BGFIRE - your '93, if it is anything like mine, does not have an adjustment at the equalizer. The e-brake system is supposed to be "self-adjusting" in that model year.
I recently replaced the rear cables myself, after getting an outrageous quote. What I found is that even the factory service manual differed from the actual setup, in terms of the control (pedal) unit. Mine did not have the nail hole which is supposed to allow you to hold the cables in a slack position for replacement. Instead, the control unit has a small white plastic "wedge" in the gears, that controls how much slack is on the cable.
I removed the pedal assembly from its mounts and noticed the small plastic wedge. Pulled it out with needle-nose pliers and I then had all the slack needed to get the new rear cables into the equalizer. Unfortunately, I'm not quite sure how to put the little wedge back in, so I have a similar e-brake situation as you. It engages, but barely enough to hold. I haven't really tried yet, though. Ran out of daylight. I'm going to mess around with it this weekend and I'll take some pics.
All I know is that my '93 E brake seems wimpy for the size truck it's supposed to hold, even after adjustments and new brakes. I carry a wedge block in the cab, within reach.
When you consider that a truck should be expected to go off road, encounter hills, and haul/park trailers (again, on hills)...the engineers should be spanked.
They were spanked, if I recall correctly, after a couple of people died when the parking brake failed. One was a little kid, I think, and there was a big lawsuit. Anyway, I did a little digging and found the recall that the little plastic wedge comes from. I wonder how many have been tossed over the years by tech that were looking for some slack when installing new cables.
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 94V169000
Component: EMERGENCY PARKING BRAKE:MECHANICAL
Manufacturer: FORD MOTOR COMPANY
Potential Number of Units Affected: 884400
Year: 1993
Make: FORD TRUCK
Model: EXPLORER
Manufactured From: JUL 1991 To: MAY 1994
Year of Recall: '94
Type of Report: Vehicle
Summary:
THE PARKING BRAKE CONTROL SELF-ADJUST PAWL DOES NOT LINE UP PROPERLY WITH
THE SELF-ADJUST RACHET CAUSING THE PAWL TO SLIP OVER ONE OR MORE TEETH IN
THE RACHET.
WHEN THE ABOVE OCCURS, IT CAN RESULT IN PARKING BRAKE SYSTEM
INEFFECTIVENESS. THE PARKING BRAKE WILL NOT HOLD THE VEHICLE, CAUSING THE
VEHICLE TO ROLL FREELY, IF THE TRANSMISSION IS NOT LEFT IN GEAR.
A WEDGE WILL BE INSTALLED WHICH WILL SERVE TO LOCK THE PARKING BRAKE
SELF-ADJUST MECHANISM PAWL INTO ENGAGEMENT WITH THE RACHET. ALSO, OWNERS
WILL BE ADVISED TO RELEASE AND REAPPLY THE PARKING BRAKE WHENEVER TOOTH SKIP
OCCURS AND WILL BE REMINDED TO ALWAYS TURN OFF THE ENGINE AND LEAVE THE
VEHICLE IN GEAR WHEN THE VEHICLE IS PARKED.
SYSTEM: EMERGENCY PARKING BRAKE; MECHANICAL.
VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: LIGHT DUTY PICKUP TRUCKS AND MULTIPURPOSE VEHICLES WITH
MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS .
NOTE: IF YOUR VEHICLE IS PRESENTED TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON
SERVICE DATE AND THE REMEDY IS NOT PROVIDED FREE OF CHARGE WITHIN A
REASONABLE TIME OR THE REMEDY DOES NOT CORRECT THE DEFECT, PLEASE CONTACT
FORD AT 1-800-392-3673. ALSO, CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY
ADMINISTRATION'S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-800-424-9393.
Thanks slorch for the details of the emergency brake issue. This is my exact problem on 92 F150 4x4 I6. Does any one have a schematic of this system and how to insert the wedge for a do it yourselfer. Better yet, anybody think Ford would still do this repair for free? Barring that is there any particular year brake pedal assembly that is a good one (fitting 92 F150) that I could replace mine with. Thanks for all your info.
Just to be clear on my terminology, when I said I carry a wedge block (I was braindead) I meant wheel chock. On a rope so I can toss it down and/or pull 'er up from the cab if I need the extra holding power. And I never put the tranny in park until I'm sure it won't get stressed by slippage/rolling.
Like many i've had problems with my emergency break cables and rust too. I've replaced them and regreased them several times.
By the way, does anyone know where i can get a replacement "equalizer" (bracket that connects front cable to the two rear cables). Mine is rusted up pretty good and can't be adjsted.