Please Freaking Help
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,159
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From: Connecticut
Have you checked for a draw off the battery with the truck in the off position?
If you have gone through the ignition and it's not the alt ot battery then it leaves me to think there may be a high draw as if there was an amp connected that doesn't shut off with the key.
If you have gone through the ignition and it's not the alt ot battery then it leaves me to think there may be a high draw as if there was an amp connected that doesn't shut off with the key.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
i though about that as a possibility but i have nothing in this truck i just bought it about 2 months ago and theres no stereo no amp nothing
and if it was the dome light i dont think it would completly drain the battery
and if it was the dome light i dont think it would completly drain the battery
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,159
Likes: 0
From: Connecticut
Well basicly its a power wire that is frayed or not connected which is either touching the frame,motor or body and causing a draw. It's like having a light left on even though you turned the switch off.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Originally Posted by Dungeon_Master
Well basicly its a power wire that is frayed or not connected which is either touching the frame,motor or body and causing a draw. It's like having a light left on even though you turned the switch off.
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: southern kentucky
I had a sim problem like this . so I made me 2 testlights I used two dome light bulbs allready had them.
testlight 1. I connected 2 lenths of wire to them one wire on each end of the bulb and taped up the bare ends to prevent a short. ran one wire from bulb to alt battery wire, and then grounding the other wire from the bulb.
testlight 2. I connected to the ignition coil hot wire and a ground.
then I started the truck and let it run for a few min. then shut it off, and tryed to start it again and noticed that the testlight #2 didnt light up when cranking. so that led me to check the ignition switch, and BINGO! it was bad. latter I found out that it was on recall by ford, and I couldv' had it replaced for free.
testlight 1. I connected 2 lenths of wire to them one wire on each end of the bulb and taped up the bare ends to prevent a short. ran one wire from bulb to alt battery wire, and then grounding the other wire from the bulb.
testlight 2. I connected to the ignition coil hot wire and a ground.
then I started the truck and let it run for a few min. then shut it off, and tryed to start it again and noticed that the testlight #2 didnt light up when cranking. so that led me to check the ignition switch, and BINGO! it was bad. latter I found out that it was on recall by ford, and I couldv' had it replaced for free.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Likes: 24
The problem is the battery.
The ignition system requires 8 volts to operate
A bad battery will not provide 8 volts therefore the engine dies by itself.
Why?
Because batteries develop shorts and also corrode inside themselves and become useless even though they show some static charge.
Do this :
Take the battery Fully charged "BY A BATTERY CHARGER" not the alternator,to a place that does the load test to determine the quality of the battery
* NOTE:
Don't ever consider an alternator to charge the battery.
The alternator VR only maintains the charge in a battery.
Also,Can I suggest putting the actual topic in the title of the thread ?
For others (Like yourself) Searching a topic like this one (engine dies afer running a short time) in the much smaller title data base is a lot better than searching the topic in the message box data base.
Titling "Please Help" does nothing for searching.
We are already here to help people,it isn't necessary to put those words in the title
The ignition system requires 8 volts to operate
A bad battery will not provide 8 volts therefore the engine dies by itself.
Why?
Because batteries develop shorts and also corrode inside themselves and become useless even though they show some static charge.
Do this :
Take the battery Fully charged "BY A BATTERY CHARGER" not the alternator,to a place that does the load test to determine the quality of the battery
* NOTE:
Don't ever consider an alternator to charge the battery.
The alternator VR only maintains the charge in a battery.
Also,Can I suggest putting the actual topic in the title of the thread ?
For others (Like yourself) Searching a topic like this one (engine dies afer running a short time) in the much smaller title data base is a lot better than searching the topic in the message box data base.
Titling "Please Help" does nothing for searching.
We are already here to help people,it isn't necessary to put those words in the title
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
OK it looks like its going ok now
I took a test light to see if i have a hot wire or something on. But it came back neg i fully charged the battery and it looks ok.
Now i need some gas. lol
Thanks guys
I took a test light to see if i have a hot wire or something on. But it came back neg i fully charged the battery and it looks ok.
Now i need some gas. lol
Thanks guys
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Likes: 24
Whoops, I thought that sentence read:
Now im stuck starts runs, it shuts off in 15 mins in (enough time to let the alternator gives some charge)
I suppose if the title was "Trouble Re-starting after short run time"
I would have been more in touch with the thread.
Sorry bout that
Now im stuck starts runs, it shuts off in 15 mins in (enough time to let the alternator gives some charge)
I suppose if the title was "Trouble Re-starting after short run time"
I would have been more in touch with the thread.
Sorry bout that
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