Please Freaking Help
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Please Freaking Help
Ok i dont know anymore
F350 1986 351
it al started with the fuel pump. then the starter and alternator.
so i have new everything battery, alternator starter battery wires new starter relay. now i re did the alternator wires and i think i did them pretty good.
Now im stuck starts runs, i shut it off 15 mins in (enough time to let the alternator gives some charge) I try to start it again no dice..
boost it runs, try it again it works maybe 2 or 3 times more then again nothing .
Any freaking suggestions im at the end of my limited knowledge.
PS the fuel pump has nothing to do with this but its just to show my frustration.
Thanks
F350 1986 351
it al started with the fuel pump. then the starter and alternator.
so i have new everything battery, alternator starter battery wires new starter relay. now i re did the alternator wires and i think i did them pretty good.
Now im stuck starts runs, i shut it off 15 mins in (enough time to let the alternator gives some charge) I try to start it again no dice..
boost it runs, try it again it works maybe 2 or 3 times more then again nothing .
Any freaking suggestions im at the end of my limited knowledge.
PS the fuel pump has nothing to do with this but its just to show my frustration.
Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
From: Durham, NC
Try this.
Let the truck sit for an hour or so and cool off with the hood up. Don't top off the battery or anything. Just let it sit.
After it has time to cool down, does it start up again like nothing was ever wrong in the first place?
Let the truck sit for an hour or so and cool off with the hood up. Don't top off the battery or anything. Just let it sit.
After it has time to cool down, does it start up again like nothing was ever wrong in the first place?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 14,941
Likes: 4
From: North of Normal
Sounds like your alt isn't charging your battery? are you getting any sound at all when you turn the key? I would check your grounds and see if anything is loose.
BTW Welcome to FTE
BTW Welcome to FTE
Last edited by SuperSnake; Jul 28, 2006 at 08:36 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
I tried leaving it didnt work.
what do you mean by sound i dont have a stereo in if thats what you mean.
I think im gonna go get one of those voltermeters and see if it goes up/
and the voltage regulator is on my alternator which is brand new.
im gonna go screw around with it again today. Thanks for the help guys ill keep you posted on my progress or de-progress. This sucks too cause the engine has like 20000km on it and i really wanna drive the **** out of it.
what do you mean by sound i dont have a stereo in if thats what you mean.
I think im gonna go get one of those voltermeters and see if it goes up/
and the voltage regulator is on my alternator which is brand new.
im gonna go screw around with it again today. Thanks for the help guys ill keep you posted on my progress or de-progress. This sucks too cause the engine has like 20000km on it and i really wanna drive the **** out of it.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Put a voltmeter across the battery when you crank it, when you have trouble starting.
If the voltage drops below 10volts, replace the battery. If it doesn't drop that much, it has to be a connection. After cranking, when it won't start, feel all the connections. Heat will indicate a high resistance.
You said new battery wires, but did you replace the engine to chassis ground cable?
And as always, new means new, it doesn't mean good.
If the voltage drops below 10volts, replace the battery. If it doesn't drop that much, it has to be a connection. After cranking, when it won't start, feel all the connections. Heat will indicate a high resistance.
You said new battery wires, but did you replace the engine to chassis ground cable?
And as always, new means new, it doesn't mean good.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
yeah i replaced the ground too.
and new dosnt mean good i agree.
Tried again this morning with no luck.
Now its rainning like crazy so i had to put a pause on my work/
and new dosnt mean good i agree.
Tried again this morning with no luck.
Now its rainning like crazy so i had to put a pause on my work/
Trending Topics
Senior User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
on fords the volt regulator is a module mounted on the side of the fender near the relay and battery. try replacing it.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
Originally Posted by BOOYAH
yea ok i was just a little thrown off by browns comment that all fords have a external one.
No, not all of them.
Our trucks are right on the cusp of Older tech, the way Ford did things 1979 and older, and the newer way Ford did things 1987 newer.
Lots and lots of differences between them.
I almost think Ford used our 1980 to 1986 trucks to experiment their ideas with sometimes. LOL!
Joke. 
If you have an external voltage regulator, it should be on the passenger side fender, right below the starter solenoid. It came with a die cut piece of rubber covering to protect it from damage, so if that rubber piece is still there, it's not easily seen.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
From: Durham, NC
That is your ignition module and that is exactly why I suggested trying to just let the truck sit for awhile and see if it starts fine after it has cooled. Let it cool with the hood up for awhile... go back out and fire it up. If it starts like nothing was ever wrong, there is a good chance your ignition module is shot.
This was a known design defect with the original Duraspark modules that was quietly fixed with replacement units sometime around the end of the 1980's or beginning of the 1990's.
I experienced this myself with my first F250 and basically the truck would be running fine and then 15-20 minutes after starting it the thing would just die. I'd turn the key, the starter would turn, the engine would crank, but just wouldn't fire. Sat there for 20 minutes with the hood up poking around but not really fixing anything and get back in and WOOOM it fires right up like nothing was ever wrong.
I got the lowdown on this from a tech from Borg-Warner when I was a parts guy back in the day. Replaced the module and the truck was fine from then-on.
This was a known design defect with the original Duraspark modules that was quietly fixed with replacement units sometime around the end of the 1980's or beginning of the 1990's.
I experienced this myself with my first F250 and basically the truck would be running fine and then 15-20 minutes after starting it the thing would just die. I'd turn the key, the starter would turn, the engine would crank, but just wouldn't fire. Sat there for 20 minutes with the hood up poking around but not really fixing anything and get back in and WOOOM it fires right up like nothing was ever wrong.
I got the lowdown on this from a tech from Borg-Warner when I was a parts guy back in the day. Replaced the module and the truck was fine from then-on.