Trail disaster!
I tried going in a hole, that didn't work.
When I couldn't see my tires any more, I knew I was in trouble, when I saw the slush/mud/water coming in, I knew I was screwed.
I got it out ok, but the 4wd wasn't engageing after, I started driveing to turn it around then the 4wd caught and my front driveshaft broke, which then started flapping around and Fu**ed up my shift linkage, and hit my transmission pan dinting it causing a leak.
After that I took it out of 4wd and unlocked the hubs, started driveing throught the field and hit a hole(grass covered) going about 20mph, and my coil spring turned in to a slinky gone bad. They were so twisted I don't know how they didn't shoot out. The shocks were holding up all the weight up front, and later my drivers side spring fell out.
Thinks didn't go good...
Any suggestions on fixes?
I have a trasmission pan I could use to replace the leaking one(should I just put the old one back on, or try and fix the chrome one I put on a little while back)?
Coil springs: I don't know what to do I'm going to mount them back like the were for now, but is there anything else I can do that holds them better or somthing.
Sorry no pics(just with it on the trailer before).... I have alittle film that I will try and get on here, but it is just a discrace and isn't too good anyway. I couldn't make my self take pics of the Bronco when it was dead in the field... Sitting there almost on the tires with twisted to ***** spring, but some how the shocks held it.
I'm depressed.... All I had to do the rest of the day was think of the madness, and watch a bunch of chevys go through the mud(of coarse not where I went though).
If the hole is on the side, it would be a perfect time to add
a welded on bung for a drain. You can get the screw in ones, though
I think the welded in ones are better if you have a MIG.
I like having one on my truck, makes a fluid change every
20k or less painless.
If you have manual hubs and manual transfer case, how did
the 4x4 fail ???
At this point, I would change ALL the fluids in the vehicle and
lube the front end until new grease flowed EXCEPT on the balljoints.
I suspect the coils went bad because the axle was stuck and being pulled out they got over extended. I would suspect the shocks and rubber brake lines (one to front axle) probably need to be replaced too.
If you put limiter straps on your axles, ESPECIALLY a coil spring axle, you can avoid this in the future. I like to use cable because I can make it an exact length and its cheap.
You can make coil retainers or just hunt down upper ones from say an AWD Aerostar, that can easily be bolted in place with a 1/4" bolt. On the lower part of the coil, depending on the vehicle, you can just use muffler clamps with a piece of 1/4 steel.
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KO76, my normal trip usually consist of me fixing the inner plastic fender and half the time a u joint.
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the 4x4 fail ???
At this point, I would change ALL the fluids in the vehicle and
lube the front end until new grease flowed EXCEPT on the balljoints.
I suspect the coils went bad because the axle was stuck and being pulled out they got over extended. I would suspect the shocks and rubber brake lines (one to front axle) probably need to be replaced too.
If you put limiter straps on your axles, ESPECIALLY a coil spring axle, you can avoid this in the future. I like to use cable because I can make it an exact length and its cheap.
Would a sway bar help limit the flex enough to wear I wouldn't need to put a limiting strap?
I'll be replacing the front shocks, but the SS extended brake lines I installed should still be ok.
I'll try replaceing fluid after I get the coil springs back in place.
KO, a while back you mentioned NP205s had 2 different kinds of adapters between the case and transmission. One short one(same length as 203), and a long one. Well the long one won't work for me unless I get a longer tail shaft, which I don't want to do, so were could I find a short 205 adapter(any particular truck)?
> limiting strap?
Yes, but, it limits it to both sides without allowing the axle to pivot and drop on one side to put traction to the ground. A pull that broke your springs will break a sway bar too because the link is the weakest link. Pretty hard to break 1/4 cable or even to stretch it if you use three clamps on each end.
I have a pretty long thick piece of cable I could use, but what would I connect it to on the axle?, and then just bolt it to the frame(how would I connect anything boltable to the cable,clamps)?
Thanks for any help.

Cable or straps will save those front springs and your shocks too. Make sure you use one on each side about under the frame rather than just 1 in the center like I've seen some tools do.
Good call on the tranny drain bung Rebo. I would have just replaced the pan but that's not a bad idea at all.

Cable or straps will save those front springs and your shocks too. Make sure you use one on each side about under the frame rather than just 1 in the center like I've seen some tools do.
Good call on the tranny drain bung Rebo. I would have just replaced the pan but that's not a bad idea at all.
I'll see what I can do with some cable and try and figure out a way to attach it to my axle(I'd don't want to be ghetto and just wrap it around
). If possible, I'd like as many ideas as possible on this, b/c I'm kind of clueless on connection points that WILL hold up.I was looking at the transmission pan, and saw it wasn't as bad as I thought it was. I might just drop it, and half a** get the dent out(no busted seams or holes anywhere), and just put a new gasket. All it looks like is the gasket got messed up. This drain pan already has a drain plug in it, so I should be good to go after I seal it back up.
Thanks for all the help so for guys.


