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Ha i don't know most of these questions but i can say i have 35s, stock manifold for cherry bombs out behind the door, stock gears to the best of my knowledge, lowest octane gas cause it's cheap, and only heavy on the throttle when i am happy or pissed. I usually am very tender on the gas pedal.
35s, while yielding a lower rpm on the highway, also take more energy to move, so rolling resistance is higher, and they probably have a negative overall effect on mpg. I'm not sure how much, though. Did you account for the bigger tires in your MPG calculations? Your truck is moving quite a bit faster and farther than the speedo is indicating. I know from my own experience that you can get a speedo gear for up to 33" tires, but it's fairly close to accurate running that speedo gear and 35" tires. Mine has the speedo gear for the 33" tires, (the purple gear I think? they're all color coded) and at 60mph, it's off by about 2 mph. Not too bad.
Oh i am positive they do, i knew before buying this bronco that it was going to be terrible on gas and my parents made sure i understood the consequences of having something that big, so i was well prepared but not prepared enough... I had never driven something like this before so it was definitely crazy on the packed highway going home.
if it matters, you know how I told you guys it's 10mpg for me no matter what? I went from 31s to 33s to 35s, still 10mpg.
nah, truthfully my 35s are stupid, STUPID for highway mileage. I have to near floor it to keep it at 60.. with stock gearing, if you're getting bad mileage with 35s it's absolutely normal.
The 400 wasn't just a smog motor though, Ford built it to be economical. You can get more MPG out of one than a 351w if you have it tuned right and now how to drive it, it's strenghts are lowend torque so you should never, ever have to be heavy footed on it. Lean up your accelerator pump one notch if you can do it without your motor cutting out.. also double check your tranny kickdown as it can make a difference
if it matters, you know how I told you guys it's 10mpg for me no matter what? I went from 31s to 33s to 35s, still 10mpg.
nah, truthfully my 35s are stupid, STUPID for highway mileage. I have to near floor it to keep it at 60.. with stock gearing, if you're getting bad mileage with 35s it's absolutely normal.
The 400 wasn't just a smog motor though, Ford built it to be economical. You can get more MPG out of one than a 351w if you have it tuned right and now how to drive it, it's strenghts are lowend torque so you should never, ever have to be heavy footed on it. Lean up your accelerator pump one notch if you can do it without your motor cutting out.. also double check your tranny kickdown as it can make a difference
I love having this motor but i need to get it rebuilt, My kickdown works pretty well but i don't know anything about tuning. My method of learning is more based on visual and physically working on it. It is easier to understand.
if it matters, you know how I told you guys it's 10mpg for me no matter what? I went from 31s to 33s to 35s, still 10mpg.
nah, truthfully my 35s are stupid, STUPID for highway mileage. I have to near floor it to keep it at 60.. with stock gearing, if you're getting bad mileage with 35s it's absolutely normal.
The 400 wasn't just a smog motor though, Ford built it to be economical. You can get more MPG out of one than a 351w if you have it tuned right and now how to drive it, it's strenghts are lowend torque so you should never, ever have to be heavy footed on it. Lean up your accelerator pump one notch if you can do it without your motor cutting out.. also double check your tranny kickdown as it can make a difference
Yes, low end torque is definitely the key to fuel mileage. The 400 has a longer stroke than the 351M, thus, greater leverage and more low end grunt. My Cummins makes 750-800 ft/lbs at 1800 rpm, and I don't even need to push the pedal down to maintain speed, even on large hills. That much low end torque is one of the reasons the diesel gets 20-22 mpg. I went a step further and had a custom torque converter built for it that has a very low stall speed, even lower than a stocker.
Regardless of gas or diesel, anything you can do to raise your low end torque will generally increase fuel mileage, assuming the engine is running in its torque "sweet spot" at cruising speeds. Thus, the lower the rpm of the engine's peak torque, the lower the rpm should be at cruising speeds.
7 on the highway or just around town, with you heavy on the throttle? If it's only around town, stomping the throttle a lot, 7 is about average. Otherwise, that's pretty low. I figured 12city/15high average for these trucks in good tune with stock 3.50 gearing and driving easy. On yours, what gears, what tires, and what's the total ignition advance at 2500 rpm? What idle advance is it set for? Also, what type of carb? Are the spark plugs are good and properly gapped? Wires are good? Does it miss or run rough at all? Does the exhaust smell rich? What mufflers does it have? Check for an exhaust system restriction? As a rule of thumb, you want as much ignition timing as the motor will tolerate without any pinging whatsoever. What grade of fuel do you run in it? An octane that's too high for the engine's requirement will actually reduce your power and fuel mileage, because the gas burns too slowly for proper combustion. Lastly, have you checked the engine's compression ratio and have you calibrated your timing mark so it's exactly at TDC? Accurate timing is absolutely critical. Sorry for the flood of questions, but maybe I can help you with it.
I occasionally throw 2 or 3 gallons of 114 leaded racing fuel in but I normally only use 87. She runs FANTASTIC aside from the gas mileage. I don't jump on it because of the fact that I only get 7mpg. I haven't put new plugs or wires in it yet but it has a 2bbl Motorcraft that I have since rebuilt. I have done the timing and it is at TDC. It does smell a little rich and when I pulled the plugs, it looked like it was running rich. I hoped rebuilding the carb would fix that because I assumed the "power valve" was just leaking because there was so much gas on the carb gasket when I pulled it off. I did all highway the last 2 days and I calculated out to be 9mpg. I did check to see if my hubs are unlocking completely in the front and I have found out that they are not completely unlocking so I'm hoping after I rebuild them, that will help a little and if not, it will be sold ASAP.
What's your ignition timing set to? At both Idle and 2500 rpm?
I have it written down in my dad's garage but I recall it being 7 degrees before TDC but I could be wrong since I don't have it in front of me.
Originally Posted by AbandonedBronco
Whats your elevation? Its possible your carburetor has factory jetting and you need to readjust.
For every 2000 ft. above sea level, drop your jets by 1 size below factory.
Also, did you set your floats correctly? Are you sure they're still good and not sinking?
I replaced the floats when I rebuilt the carb and from how much better it runs now, as far as acceleration and idle is concerned, I think they are fine and set correctly. A local website here says my elevation is 89ft so I am assuming that means 89ft above sea level.
Today's fueling got me 14.15mpg, the driving having been back roads, a little fast freeway, and in town. I am quite happy about this - it is the best town mpg of any of the trucks I have.
I replaced the floats when I rebuilt the carb and from how much better it runs now, as far as acceleration and idle is concerned, I think they are fine and set correctly. A local website here says my elevation is 89ft so I am assuming that means 89ft above sea level.
If that's the case, you should probably stick with stock jetting. Do you know what size jets are in the carburetor? A lot of times, people erroneously think they can get more horsepower by dumping more fuel through the carb, so they'll put in larger jets. (All it does is result in less power, soggy performance, and worse gas mileage).
If that's the case, you should probably stick with stock jetting. Do you know what size jets are in the carburetor? A lot of times, people erroneously think they can get more horsepower by dumping more fuel through the carb, so they'll put in larger jets. (All it does is result in less power, soggy performance, and worse gas mileage).
I'm not sure of the size of the jets but from talking to the previous owner and seeing what a hack job he did on the exhaust and what not, I don't think he replaced them with anything larger than what should be on there. I was thinking of buying a new carb and seeing if that would make a difference.
im noticing with my tires that my hwy mileage is being murdered the bigger I go, but around town is just about the same. So I cut it to like 8mpg or so.. it's definitely a tire thing for me. Gonna eventually regear when I don't always blow my money on my cheatin' scum of a girl
im noticing with my tires that my hwy mileage is being murdered the bigger I go, but around town is just about the same. So I cut it to like 8mpg or so.. it's definitely a tire thing for me. Gonna eventually regear when I don't always blow my money on my cheatin' scum of a girl
Instead of blowing your money on a cheatin, you could buy me and you new gears My 35s are taking their toll as well.
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