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Today was the first mpg test for the Bronco - filled up in Woodland, Wa, traveled to the south of Salem, Or, and back to the same pump we filled up at. 164.4 miles, 9.98 galls @16.33 mpg.. I am extremely surprised, and very happy about this total - I was taking it easy on the way down - 60 - 65mph, but on the way back I was in a hurry, so was doing 65-70.
Today was the first mpg test for the Bronco - filled up in Woodland, Wa, traveled to the south of Salem, Or, and back to the same pump we filled up at. 164.4 miles, 9.98 galls @16.33 mpg.. I am extremely surprised, and very happy about this total - I was taking it easy on the way down - 60 - 65mph, but on the way back I was in a hurry, so was doing 65-70.
Well since your in the Wa area mind stopping by my place and filling my tank cheapest gas around me is 3.7X from the new Sams Club station where it is members only and 10 cents lower than everyone else. (Arco)
Theo, that is good mpg. Just to be sure it is accurate, I suggest checking your speedometer calibration. The next time you are on an interstate that is not really crowded set your cruise to 60 mph and see how many seconds it takes to get from one mile post to the next. Five miles is a really accurate test if you dare travelling that slow. Of course you should be travelling a mile a minute.
Rub it in rub it in...could not resist... used a tank to Dallas and back this week pulling a trailer. 12.5 mpg. 68 mph Interstate. No A/C. Best ever once got 16 no trailer, no A/C, no defrost, windows up on about 500 miles. Odometer dead on, no lift 265-15 tires..
You can make a world of difference in the performance and efficiency of your motor by playing with the carb and ignition timing. Not just ignition idle advance or full advance, but how soon it comes in and so on. And the air/fuel ratio and proper fuel atomization is just as important. I prefer Holley carbs over anything. And I prefer 4-barrels over 2-barrels, even on a stock engine, because A: a small (490cfm?) 4-barrel is MUCH more responsive to vacuum changes than the larger bores of a 2-barrel carb, since the primary bores of the 4-barrel are tiny by comparison, and B: because the 4-barrel intake manifold provides much more balanced fuel/air distribution among the cylinders. These factors will increase your low end torque, which, when geared properly, will achieve the highest MPG. You will achieve more power AND better fuel mileage with the small 4-bbl carb if properly set up, as long as you stay out of the skinny pedal around town!
I 5 has a few speedometer check places marked out - the speedo is about 11 seconds out over five miles, the odometer is also pretty accurate. Measured the distance with gps and a pro map software, and got the same mileage as the truck, so it seems that the 16mpg is correct.
You can make a world of difference in the performance and efficiency of your motor by playing with the carb and ignition timing. Not just ignition idle advance or full advance, but how soon it comes in and so on. And the air/fuel ratio and proper fuel atomization is just as important. I prefer Holley carbs over anything. And I prefer 4-barrels over 2-barrels, even on a stock engine, because A: a small (490cfm?) 4-barrel is MUCH more responsive to vacuum changes than the larger bores of a 2-barrel carb, since the primary bores of the 4-barrel are tiny by comparison, and B: because the 4-barrel intake manifold provides much more balanced fuel/air distribution among the cylinders. These factors will increase your low end torque, which, when geared properly, will achieve the highest MPG. You will achieve more power AND better fuel mileage with the small 4-bbl carb if properly set up, as long as you stay out of the skinny pedal around town!
It's too bad you like in NY you could have tuned my 400 for me last time i tried playing with my carb i ended up getting it all out of whack and had to have a tech at my work fix it. As far as i know though it is the stock MC 2bbl carb. I want to eventually throw a 4bbl on but right now i have to wait a bit.
For years, I used to make decent money rebuilding and tuning Holleys and various brands of distributors, but these days, it's a dying business. More of a hobby now I guess.
I think i will eventually need to do a rebuild but it seems to work ok for now. I think if i were to go as far as a rebuild i would just snag a 4bbl from somewhere and rebuild that instead. Had the PO for mine not lied to me i would have a 4bbl intake but no i only have a 2bbl...
Even after rebuilding the carb, I still only get about 7mpg so unless I can figure out something else, I think it's going to have to go.
7 on the highway or just around town, with you heavy on the throttle? If it's only around town, stomping the throttle a lot, 7 is about average. Otherwise, that's pretty low. I figured 12city/15high average for these trucks in good tune with stock 3.50 gearing and driving easy. On yours, what gears, what tires, and what's the total ignition advance at 2500 rpm? What idle advance is it set for? Also, what type of carb? Are the spark plugs are good and properly gapped? Wires are good? Does it miss or run rough at all? Does the exhaust smell rich? What mufflers does it have? Check for an exhaust system restriction? As a rule of thumb, you want as much ignition timing as the motor will tolerate without any pinging whatsoever. What grade of fuel do you run in it? An octane that's too high for the engine's requirement will actually reduce your power and fuel mileage, because the gas burns too slowly for proper combustion. Lastly, have you checked the engine's compression ratio and have you calibrated your timing mark so it's exactly at TDC? Accurate timing is absolutely critical. Sorry for the flood of questions, but maybe I can help you with it.
I think i will eventually need to do a rebuild but it seems to work ok for now. I think if i were to go as far as a rebuild i would just snag a 4bbl from somewhere and rebuild that instead. Had the PO for mine not lied to me i would have a 4bbl intake but no i only have a 2bbl...
They never made a stock 4bbl 400/351M intake that I know of, so any 4bb intake will be aftermarket aluminum. It's too bad, as I'd actually prefer an iron 4bbl manifold because aluminum soaks up much more heat from the motor, heating the intake charge and making less power/less efficiency. Except when running it in very cold weather, then that extra intake heat is nice to have.
Ha i don't know most of these questions but i can say i have 35s, stock manifold for cherry bombs out behind the door, stock gears to the best of my knowledge, lowest octane gas cause it's cheap, and only heavy on the throttle when i am happy or pissed. I usually am very tender on the gas pedal.
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