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The stangest thing is happening to my truck. It will start with the bump of a key when the engine is COMPLETELY cold after sitting all night, but as soon as you run it for a while and the engine gets hot it becomes difficult to start. I mean it is not impossible to start but it does hesitate for a while and then it will finally kick off and start. Does anyone know what might be causing this?? What can I do to maybe get this problem solved?? thanks
injector pump is getting seriously wore--after warm--pour some tempid?? water over it--about 70deg---let set i minute--if starts--ip going out--over period of time--wear inside pump--and clearances get tooooooo much---
the injector pump is brand new. it has about 1500 miles on it. so it cannot be that. it might simply be air in my lines still. i am having trouble with air continuing to get into my lines. i am unsure where it is coming from. will that cause hard starting after its warm???
road--just because it is "new", does not mean good--unless you are very familiar with the shop that did it--too many stories on another site of people getting bad pumps--and not ragging--just what have read--know the shop that did mine---and a lot of others--
yeah i do not know the shop that did this one. is there anything else i could try before changing out that pump. is there anything else possibly the air in the lines or clogged injectors or anything else it could be besides the IP. thanks turbo i appreciate your help
Does the starter cranking speed seem to be the same warm and cold?
Some starters will slow down when warm before they go out.
What truck do you have?
User CP on the left of the blue bar.
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Enter as much info as you know about your truck.
Makes trouble shooting much easier since there are two glow plug systems and two water seperator systems as well as two different engines used in the IDI equiped trucks.
Famous air intrusion points,
Old style water seperator on the 86 and earlier trucks.
Return lines on all IDI engines.
Broken or cracked fuel pickup tubes in the tanks.
Pinholes rusted in the fuel supply lines on the frame.
I do have to say that air problems usually show up more during cold starts than warm starts. Most common is start fine then die shortly after starting.
this is an '86 F-250. I have replaced all of the fuel lines from tank to the engine. It has a new after-market fuel seperator that seems to always have bubbles in it. i am not sure where they are coming from. i will try the water trick thing tomorrow and report back to you what the results are. thanks for all of yalls help
i am about to ask a really stupid question, but i want to make sure i get this right. but tubo what exactly does "tepid" stand for or what do you mean by water trick. what should i do exactly to perform this trick to the IP to check it out. thanks again
Have you thought of checking the fuel pick-up pipes in your tanks for cracks. The early Ford Diesels were quite suseptible to this problem.
PS "Tepid" means luke warm water.
The test basically confirms that your IP is running too hot due to internal wear and tear. The water cools it off and makes it work temporarily. The pump needs to be most likely replaced.
i have a buddy with a pickup like that, he carries a 5 gallon bucket and a coffee can around, if i t wont start, he pours a full coffee can of water over the pump and uses a screw driver on the starter switch on the fender and it fires right off every time, no glowplugs nada. just make sure the key is on and its out of gear. he pours water on the pump and hits the starter right away.
i just remembered, sometimes he uses ice water from a water cooler full of ice it hasnt hurt anything yet. but i think regular water seems to do the trick just as easy.