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The fews thing that gas, and oil burners have in common are simple principles for making power. Getting air in, and getting air out. The more (air) you can get in, the more fuel, (gas) you can add, more power is the result, if you can get all of the spent gases out. You will find little or no adverse effect on fuel (gas) mileage. Might even help. Do invest in some quality gauges, so you can see what's goin on. Consider a trans temp gauge as well. If you are going to start makin more power with a tuner, you are undoubtedly gonna have some fun with it. So as you are smashing the skinny pedal, you will want to monitor that trans, so you dont burn it up too.
1 Let it breath - Intake & Exhaust (Turbo mods and increased boost i would put off till after #3
2 Monitor it - Pyro, Boost, Trans Temp gauges
3 Fix weak points - Transmission
4 Choose Tuner - DP-tuner (Dont think you will find a better powerstroke tuner out there)
Ditto to all. Unfortunately while these mods can result in increased fuel economy, my mods seem to have come with lead boots. I can't seem to keep my foot out of it. I gladly trade off the economy for the performance. Any reduction in mpg is purely my own fault by choice.
Gages first especially EGT. Most mods will raise the Exhaust Gas Temps....very dangerous to the turbo. 1200 degrees is about max you want to see. A little higher for short bursts.
I would get gauges first. Not as sexy but definately necessary. That way you have a baseline of how the truck operates instead of not knowing if this value is too high, too low or just right.
Gages first especially EGT. Most mods will raise the Exhaust Gas Temps....very dangerous to the turbo. 1200 degrees is about max you want to see. A little higher for short bursts.
BTW: Mount the EGT probe before the turbo.
actually the high EGT's are dangerous to the forged aluminum pistons we have. pure aluminum's melting point is 1218*F (somewhere close to that), however it will not melt at that exhaust temp, because of cooling method such as the oil jet on the bottom of the piston, incoming cool air, and water cooling jackets surrounding the cylinder.
the turbine wheel is made of a special metal blend of Tungsten and Inconel which can withstand 1800+*. however your turbo will be taken out long before that temp, as pieces of the piston and cylinder head begin to melt and hit the turbine wheel.