Steering Shaft Question?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: Yelm,Washington
Steering Shaft Question?
I have really easy access to a automatic column from a '69 f250 power steering equiped truck. I want to transplant just the steering shaft from the auto column to my column which is a '67 f250 manual column..In the end I would like to end up with the proper lenght steering shaft to accomadate the power steering box that i intend to install in place of my manual box...Ya think that will work? I know i could just switch columns but I really dont want a auto shifter in my truck with a four speed stick coming thru the floor..It looks like it should fit...I'm wondering if any one else has done this? What other problems i might run into? Thanks for any help.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
If you disassemble both columns, you can remove all the shifter components from the new column, and put the blank collar from you manual column on the auto column to hide the hole for the shifter.
!["Beemer Nut"'s Avatar](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%23bc5285' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>"</text></svg>)
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
First off, the 67 manual box and Bendix's power steering boxes will interchange as they are the same length as well column and shaft.
The Bendix is a leaker, twitchy at speed and expensive to rebuild as only Ford (leave Rover out of this) used it for a few years only. Seal kits if you can find one were $155 then leak again 18 months later. After dumping $650 in Bendix I switched to a Ford box with shorter column. This Ford box is available for many years, cheap to rebuild as well rebuild kits are available.
The Ford box is app 2 1/4" longer so a shorter column and shaft are needed.
You'll need to locate a Ford box column and shaft from a manual trans truck unless you want to cut and weld. If you ever get in a wreck with a "do it yourself" cut and welded shaft the other party will own everything you had. A quick out by your insurrance company.
Feel lucky?
.....=o&o>.....
The Bendix is a leaker, twitchy at speed and expensive to rebuild as only Ford (leave Rover out of this) used it for a few years only. Seal kits if you can find one were $155 then leak again 18 months later. After dumping $650 in Bendix I switched to a Ford box with shorter column. This Ford box is available for many years, cheap to rebuild as well rebuild kits are available.
The Ford box is app 2 1/4" longer so a shorter column and shaft are needed.
You'll need to locate a Ford box column and shaft from a manual trans truck unless you want to cut and weld. If you ever get in a wreck with a "do it yourself" cut and welded shaft the other party will own everything you had. A quick out by your insurrance company.
Feel lucky?
.....=o&o>.....
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: Yelm,Washington
Originally Posted by Ford_Six
If you disassemble both columns, you can remove all the shifter components from the new column, and put the blank collar from you manual column on the auto column to hide the hole for the shifter.
This actually crossed my mind...I'll Go ahead with this plan. Cutting and welding is out for sure as is the bendix gear which I do not have in any of my trucks and have heard nothing but bad about...I actually have never seen one.Thanks for the reply's..
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
You haven't seen a Bendix box, i'll show you one that had 69K original miles, started to leak, I was stubborn and determined to rebuild it three times. Rebuilders want $250 core charge alone. I machined custom bushings, line bored with special pilot reamer with bushings for centering jig. $650 later said **** on it and installed a Ford box. Now have two spares just in case.
The Bendix box has 4 bolts on a aluminum cover, simple inside but the input seal is a joke from day one, maybe that's why Rover has the same design to follow there Limey leaking tradition?
Go with a Ford box, they are not twitchy at speed.
If you change over to a Ford box and column you need the firewall mounting bracket for the Ford column, they are different than a manual or power Bendix column. Also since the box is longer get the correct left engine perch and bolt up on the front frame holes. Better to use the correct perch than chop up your old one for box clearance.
While this far into it rebuild the Thompson pump and add a cooler, not that pissy loop with fins or the frame mounted loop.
.....=o&o>.....
The Bendix box has 4 bolts on a aluminum cover, simple inside but the input seal is a joke from day one, maybe that's why Rover has the same design to follow there Limey leaking tradition?
Go with a Ford box, they are not twitchy at speed.
If you change over to a Ford box and column you need the firewall mounting bracket for the Ford column, they are different than a manual or power Bendix column. Also since the box is longer get the correct left engine perch and bolt up on the front frame holes. Better to use the correct perch than chop up your old one for box clearance.
While this far into it rebuild the Thompson pump and add a cooler, not that pissy loop with fins or the frame mounted loop.
.....=o&o>.....
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Jul 20, 2006 at 12:07 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: Yelm,Washington
Remember when I said I have never seen a Bendix box? Well, Thats exactly what I pulled out of my '68 donor truck...Yeah, nothing gets by me. But, I found a Ford P/S box today at the bone yard('74 f250). I also grabbed a power steering pump out of a '78 (the plastic/aluminum big mouth type) the brakets were kinda wrong but I managed to get her mounted up on the fe with some other brakets I had.My question is, Is this pump compatible with the older style Ford P/S box? Also, Will the correct left engine perch be in my '68 donor truck that the Bendix box came out of? What about the pitman arm? Can I use the one off of the Bendix Box?(arm missing off of '74 P/S box). I've already got the manual box out of the '67 with the new pump installed. I just need to clear up these issues.Thanks for any help.
Last edited by markjw; Jul 26, 2006 at 07:54 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
You'll need the left perch then bolt it on the foward two of three holes in the frame. Others have chopped the Bendix perch (not my style) to make fit.
You'll need the shorter column off a Ford box truck as well the steering shaft and firewall mounting bracket for the column. I recall you need a Ford pitman arm as the Bendix will not fit. I rebuilt the Thompson pump (big tin can with small filler). Have seen the same Thompson pump on both Bendix and Ford equipped trucks, inside they are the same including the pressure release spring. I purchased a P/S cooler that 2000 onward Ford trucks use, this is mounted on angle iron between the lower frame rails under the radiator in the air stream. Lines from the steering box to cooler and back to pump are hard piped. The only hoses used are two 1 1/2" pieces at the cooler and a 8" loop for motor torque. Hard pipe alone is a cooler, This is a lot more reliable than running long hoses, same when I added a extra trans cooler and spin on filter, all hard piped. You will need a high pressure hose for the Ford P/S box as the Bendix P/S hose is different.
.....=o&o>.....
You'll need the shorter column off a Ford box truck as well the steering shaft and firewall mounting bracket for the column. I recall you need a Ford pitman arm as the Bendix will not fit. I rebuilt the Thompson pump (big tin can with small filler). Have seen the same Thompson pump on both Bendix and Ford equipped trucks, inside they are the same including the pressure release spring. I purchased a P/S cooler that 2000 onward Ford trucks use, this is mounted on angle iron between the lower frame rails under the radiator in the air stream. Lines from the steering box to cooler and back to pump are hard piped. The only hoses used are two 1 1/2" pieces at the cooler and a 8" loop for motor torque. Hard pipe alone is a cooler, This is a lot more reliable than running long hoses, same when I added a extra trans cooler and spin on filter, all hard piped. You will need a high pressure hose for the Ford P/S box as the Bendix P/S hose is different.
.....=o&o>.....
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: Yelm,Washington
Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
You'll need the left perch then bolt it on the foward two of three holes in the frame. Others have chopped the Bendix perch (not my style) to make fit.
.....=o&o>.....
.....=o&o>.....
Your calling it the Bendix Perch so I must have the correct perch in the '68 that the bendix gear came from.When I remove the Perch from the '67,should i have my engine hoist supporting the weight on the left side of the engine? Is that how you removed yours? Also, when I move the perch foward, will the engine mount still line up when i lower the weight of the engine on the new perch?
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
When you use the Ford box perch bolt it to the two forward frame holes, the motor mount will align as the Ford perch ends correct for the forward location vs the backward on the Bendix box perch.
I used a engine puller on the left side of the motor to change the perch.
Different story in the Pick N Pull, used a rear axle between pan and cross member to lift motor and a 2 x 4 to block motor up for a safe perch removal.
You have a 99% chance of working on a greasy perch, like the steering box.
This is a good time to change both motor mounts, make sure motor sits level when done.
.....=o&o>.....
I used a engine puller on the left side of the motor to change the perch.
Different story in the Pick N Pull, used a rear axle between pan and cross member to lift motor and a 2 x 4 to block motor up for a safe perch removal.
You have a 99% chance of working on a greasy perch, like the steering box.
This is a good time to change both motor mounts, make sure motor sits level when done.
.....=o&o>.....
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
Likes: 6
From: Coal country
Beemer is right on, I have done almost exactly the same things!
1. Use a later engine perch for your engine on the driver's side; it will mount into holes already drilled into the frame, just closer to the front of the truck. The later one sweeps forward to give room for the larger Ford PS box. Do you have an FE? If so, you need the perch from Ford trucks with an FE '70 - '76.
2. If you got the plastic type pump, you can ask for a PS pressure hose for a '78 F-150 with PS and a 351M. That hose is correct for the Ford PS box and plastic PS pump. This is what I use.
3. The Ford (non-Bendix) PS box was used from '69 or '70 to '79. It will bolt up to any F-100 - F-250 truck from '65 to '79.
4. You must use the Ford pitman am. I have heard that in '73 or '74 that the manual PS box pitman arm was changed to match the PS box, as a way to cut manufacturing costs, but I do not know this of my personal experience.
5. I do know from experience that there is no interchangeability betyween the following: the manual pitman arm ('65 - ??); the Bendix pitman arm ('65 - '69 or '70); and the Ford/Saginaw PS pitman arm '69 - '79.
Good luck!
1. Use a later engine perch for your engine on the driver's side; it will mount into holes already drilled into the frame, just closer to the front of the truck. The later one sweeps forward to give room for the larger Ford PS box. Do you have an FE? If so, you need the perch from Ford trucks with an FE '70 - '76.
2. If you got the plastic type pump, you can ask for a PS pressure hose for a '78 F-150 with PS and a 351M. That hose is correct for the Ford PS box and plastic PS pump. This is what I use.
3. The Ford (non-Bendix) PS box was used from '69 or '70 to '79. It will bolt up to any F-100 - F-250 truck from '65 to '79.
4. You must use the Ford pitman am. I have heard that in '73 or '74 that the manual PS box pitman arm was changed to match the PS box, as a way to cut manufacturing costs, but I do not know this of my personal experience.
5. I do know from experience that there is no interchangeability betyween the following: the manual pitman arm ('65 - ??); the Bendix pitman arm ('65 - '69 or '70); and the Ford/Saginaw PS pitman arm '69 - '79.
Good luck!
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: Yelm,Washington
Welp,it aint soup yet,but the work I got done is solid. Turns out the donor truck had the old style perch (same as my '67) so I went to the bone yard and found the one I need...Problem is its got an FE sittin on it. Going back tomorrow with the floor jack and some chunks of 4x4, I'll get it.Funny how you do things at a bone yard you would never do to your own truck. I found the correct pump brakets for my 352 (that I'm really happy about) and got the column issue's all straighten out..Turns out my '68 donor truck was pretty much worthless because of the Bendix box...wrong box,wrong perch,wrong column...I got alot of other stuff off of it so it was not a complete loss...Thanks for all your help.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
Hang onto that bendix box, rebuilders charge between $150-$250 core charge alone on that Bendix box. There is some value if it's rebuildable.
The bendix is more sensitive or twitchy at speed than a Ford box.
Do it correctly once and you'll be happy later, take your time.
Bring a lot of tools, rags and hand cleaner as it's a dirty removal.
With different years the wire colors are different on the neurtal / reverse switch on the lower column. If you use a small brass tube (hobby shop) it will retract the locking pins so you can pull out the wires from the connector, make a picture to replace by.
......=o&o>......
The bendix is more sensitive or twitchy at speed than a Ford box.
Do it correctly once and you'll be happy later, take your time.
Bring a lot of tools, rags and hand cleaner as it's a dirty removal.
With different years the wire colors are different on the neurtal / reverse switch on the lower column. If you use a small brass tube (hobby shop) it will retract the locking pins so you can pull out the wires from the connector, make a picture to replace by.
......=o&o>......
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: Yelm,Washington
Finally got it done..What a Chore..In the end,for me anyway, it was the pulleys and brackets that were the hardest part to sort out. My '67 had a double pully set up but in the end I ended up with a triple on the water pump and also the crank to accommodate the new p/s pump...That was pretty difficult to sort out as I had to run back to and from the Bone Yard..Pulling that perch wasn't real pleasent either. Did as little damage to that FE as possible but, it is still sittin on a chunck of 4x4 between the pan and the cross member.I'll hang on to that Bendix Box like you said Beemer,maybe someday I'll try it on some basket case that finds it's way into my yard..