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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 04:53 PM
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Rear Air Issue - Solved.......

First off I would like to thank all of the contributors to my original thread on my Aux A/C problem. I want to especially mention 99f350sd. He mentioned that the high side should get cold at the orifice tube. I did not know that. I thought as long as the entire tube was sweating everything was ok and the problem was in the evaporator.
Well, it turned out to be a plugged up filter/drier (whatever that bulb looking thing is). It was just letting enough refrigerant through to vaporize and make the tube sweat. The pressure apparently was not enough to traverse the orifice tube and cool the evaporator. I took the hose assembly out of my '90 and replaced it. Now the rear vent temps are just as good as the front. 51 at idle and 30 at freeway speeds.
Again, thanks to all the contributors; my grandkids are especially grateful, they ride back there.

Klaus Cook
Houston, Texas
 
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 08:01 PM
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Boy thats great!! Now if I can only fix my problem. I'm waitin on parts...



Dick
 
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 09:30 PM
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that's one cool Aero with a load of grand kids
 
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 10:31 PM
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Not meaning to wet on your parade but if your air is 30 degrees at the outlet, it is too cold. If it ices up and stops blowing you need to adjust your low pressure switch clockwise to raise temp. The evaporator can not run below freezing or it will freeze into an air blocking chunk. 40 degree air at the outlet would be about the coldest that will work.

Ken
 
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by ken1mod
Not meaning to wet on your parade but if your air is 30 degrees at the outlet, it is too cold. If it ices up and stops blowing you need to adjust your low pressure switch clockwise to raise temp. The evaporator can not run below freezing or it will freeze into an air blocking chunk. 40 degree air at the outlet would be about the coldest that will work.

Ken
I'm keeping an eye on it....it has puzzled me, because there is plenty of condensation running out of the drains both front and back. While the back was not working, I had the front only on for a 210 mile trip and didn't have any problems. Could be that my thermometer is off, but the dial reads 30 to 31. I'm using one of those industrial thermometers with a 1" dial and about a 5" spike like probe......
 
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 09:00 AM
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It depends on the weather. If it does not freeze up, no big deal.

If your thermometer is accurate, and you do have 30 degree air, you have a 20 degree evaporator which is too cold.

Pull off the connector to the low pressure switch on the accumulator. You will see a slotted adjustment. If you turn this clockwise, the pressure in the evap will rise. It is easy to adjust.

Too cold an evaporator also wastes a bit of fuel as the compressor runs more.

Ken
 
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 09:06 AM
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Ya you would need a low pressure of 20 psi to get that cold..I thought you said it was 60 psi. 40 deg is about as cold as it gets on r134a. The old cadilacs i used to work on would blow ice at you...


Dick
 
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 10:02 AM
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I would tend to bolster Klaus's findings. My conversion runs around 32 degrees center vent at highway using the same type thermometer. I just assumed because it was a cheapo thermometer, it was off a few degrees. But it does run really cold when using just the front system. When the rear is turned on, the front temps are higher, around 38-40 degrees (highway). The front unit throws a bunch of condensate but hasn't frozen yet in 4 years of service.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 99f350sd
Ya you would need a low pressure of 20 psi to get that cold..I thought you said it was 60 psi. 40 deg is about as cold as it gets on r134a. The old cadilacs i used to work on would blow ice at you...


Dick
Yesterday after I recharged it, the pressures were 60/295 at 95 degrees ambient.
 
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