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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 04:03 PM
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Fuel pump problem

I need to know where the fuel pump relay is. My book sucks, the Ford Stealership is no help either. I tested the pump and it is good. The inerta switch is not tripped and it still does not pump. The Ford guy will sell me a new relay but won't tell me where to find it. WTF.
Thanks for any help.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 04:25 PM
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What year and engine?
 
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 04:29 PM
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If its like my 96 its the second one in from the rear behind the battery. You can check it with one of the other relay's...


Dick
 
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 04:50 PM
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Behind the starter relay is a bank of relays in a plastic holder. The fuel pump relay is the first one behind the starter relay.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 11:11 PM
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Those relays are cheap. The aftermarket replacements are universalized, and can replace any of the three relays there. I would test the suspect relay against the others. You can use a 9 volt battery to trigger the relays. If it clicks it may still be bad. The 2 small pins are the coil. The larger pins, depending on their location may be either open or closed. if their state does not toggle to full on or off, you have a bad realy. Measure the resistance of the coil. If it is not the same as the other 2, replace it. If the pins have slight corrosion, clean them with electrical parts cleaner, and test again.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 11:28 PM
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Thanks for the replys. It is a 94 4.0. I ran all three relays through all the spots still no fuel. What is the fusable link in the front of the relay box? I read that there were 2 factory recalls concerning the fuel pump wiring.the fixes were to put a relay to ground by the enersa (collision cutoff) switch and the other was a relay from the ignition to the A2 electrical. Does any one know where these two relays would be? And what else would cause the pump not to come on when cranking the engine?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 12:19 AM
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I doubt this is your problem but to answer your last question, maybe a bad crankshaft positioning sensor or PIP sensor? When I was playing with the timing on my 93 3.0L I noticed that if I had the engine off, key in run and rotated the distributor it would cause the fuel pump to kick in. My van has a PIP sensor inside the distributor. So apparently the computer waits until it detects engine rotation before it turns on the fuel pump.
I'd keep doing what your doing though and verify that all the wiring and stuff is good.

Edit: I just remembered that there is a fuel pump test pin on the EEC-IV test connector. Maybe you can somehow work that into your trouble shooting.

Info taken from another webpage: (the page has a pic that shows which pin)
" The Fuel Pump (FP) test pin, when grounded, runs the fuel pump continuously- but that's just FYI."
 

Last edited by Aeromac121; Jul 18, 2006 at 12:55 AM.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 12:50 AM
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Thanks that might help. I wonder if it bypasses sensers and just trips the relay directly. That would help determine if it is a short in the wiring or a sensor/relay. And the info on the fuel pump not coming on until the sensor sees engine rotation is one I would not thought of. If the comp doesn't know the engine is turning then it won't activate the fuel pump. Thanks again.
There is something to be said for good old Carbed v's.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 12:51 AM
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Oh yeah, What is the fuseable link in front of the relays for?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 01:09 AM
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Not sure about the fuseable link. I just remembered something. When you first put the key in run, I think the fuel pump should run for a couple of seconds regardless off whether or not the engine is turning yet. At least that’s how mine is, so maybe ignore my previous post about the sensors and stuff. I'm guessing your pump is dead at all times?
 

Last edited by Aeromac121; Jul 18, 2006 at 01:18 AM.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 01:46 AM
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Randy! This relay is usually green.

Can you hear relay cliking?
If no, replace relay first.
Sometimes ECU sends no signal to relay, but it is really rare.
The next step, if relay cliks, remove it. There are 4 pins, 2 thick and 2 thin. Shot the thick pins together and if the pump runs, replace relay with good one, else if pump does not run, check fuse link ore harness.
 

Last edited by Pablo-UA; Jul 18, 2006 at 01:53 AM.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 02:17 AM
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fuse link E dark blue feeds 12v power to the fuel pump relay
located on starter relay driver side fender wall...this one also feeds the ECU relay so if you have ECU op with CEL on key on engine off=fuse line good.
Pump relay output also signals ECU pin 8, aka Fuel Pump Monitor, so should get ECU/CEL code if pump relay failed

fuel pump ground G101 on driver side fender wall in front of batt.

suspect relay socket or relay feed wire from socket back to tank....at least 2 inline plug sockets in harness...purple/blk wire

pin 22 ECU supplies a gnd to fuel pump relay coil with key on aka Fuel Pump Enable
can test pump by grounding Lt Blue/Orange wire at Data Link Connector
 

Last edited by 96_4wdr; Jul 18, 2006 at 02:29 AM.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 02:26 AM
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Wires ander the hood are usually grey ore broun (in color of sand and dust here....), so prepare to cleane them.... :-).
 
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 02:34 PM
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Thanks for all the great info. I will be checking this later and I will get back to you all.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 03:46 PM
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In response to Aeromac121....When I turn my key to run the fuel pump turns on for a couple of seconds to bring the system up to pressure once the keys is turned to start. I can hear it run when i turn the key but sometimes you might have to listen at the gas filler hole.
 
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