As I drive my 64 Galaxie convertible more often and further distances, I find myself thinking what I would do if I had a flat tire. Yes, I have the original jack, but I do not want to trust a 43 year old jack lifting the car. Plus, I do not want to risk marking up the very expensive and rare bumpers. Yes, I do have AAA and Hagerty's road service, but I don't want to wait in the middle of no where for them to arrive or not be in cell phone range to place a call. I don't want to lug around a 2-ton floor jack either. LOL.

So,

1. What would be the best type of jack (sissors or bottle) to use,

2. where would be the best points to place the jack to remove a front or rear tire, and

3. how much lift should the jack have?

Thanks in advance.

 

1. I like the scissor jacks, but both work well
2. put the jack on the frame under the car
3. enough to get the tires off the ground.

Most parts stores have small jacks that would do the job pretty easy.

I would not trust AAA to not beat the car up, I would trust the 43 year old jack before a tow service. Go buy a new small jack that has a rating more than the car weighs and don't worry about a flat tire anymore.

 

As I drive a 64 Galaxie also, with mine, I can not get the wheels off unless I lift the body. So you would need a jack that will lift the frame high enough so the wheels clear. I run Keystone Clasics on on ole Bertha, so they are a little whide. My original jack had a stud going up into a hole on the bottom of the bumper and I use some padding on the top aginest the bumper.

 

Bill, I know it's not what you want to hear, I know you're kind of stubborn, but I'm gonna say it anyway: The speed, ease and safety of using a hydraulic floor jack makes it worth "lugging around".

I don't know what the weight rating is on my cheap-n-cheesey little floor jack, but the most it will ever lift is half the vehicle weight; that leaves two of the tires still on the ground.
The less time I spend on the side of the road, the less my chances of being run over.
The less time I spend actually jacking and lowering, the less chance the car will fall on me

I usually keep a 12" by 24" by 3/8" plywood under the jack, when it's time to use I'll throw it on the ground so the jack can still roll that huge base under the load.

Past that:
1) Scissor Jacks seem to have a bigger base, although I have seen a cantilever style ratchet jack with a large base. Might have been a chebby Jack, not sure.
2) Any shop manual for the car should also show lift points; usually between the wheels, close to the wheel you want to change.
3) Once you find the lift points, get out that 2 ton jack and a tape. Measure the lift required to change a fully inflated tire, add a couple more inches for GP.

I know you're smart, I know you're stubborn, that's why I read your posts! Mike

 

What do you think of something like this?

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

Wow! That's pretty deluxe! The chocks are good idea, I like the looks of that single roller up front.
35" handle...Just for grins I went out and measured my auto parts $20 cheapie:
Handle-1 piece, 21" long
Jack-21" long by 9" wide by 6" high. That's how much room I need to stow it.
With the saddle in, it starts at 5" Jacks to 15". I've had to remove the saddle from the cup to get under a few compacts.
What's left of the sticker says 2 tons(?).
I don't know how much it weighs. I can stow and retrieve it with one hand, can't be too much weight.
Shop 'till ya drop, Mike

 

Seems that Harbor Freight is advertising an aluminum 'racing' jack for about $100... It is a hydraulic roll around floor jack, so if it were me, I'd want something for it to sit on out in the real world. It weighs less than the iron jacks, so that minimizes extra weight.
Personally, I'd get some canvas padding and use the factory jack.
Just because it's old doesn't mean that it is worn out. Just look at me!! heh.

tom

 

One of the things I negelected to mention, when I replaced my rear bumper, the heavy steel reinforcement that bolts behind the bumper was very mangled and bent. No amount of hammering would straighten it out. So I left it off. I'm concerned that without it, using the bumper jack in the rear would bend and damage the bumper. I have been looking for a replacement but no luck so far.

 

I like the factory jack in those days. They are locked into the bumper when used properly plus they are strong and easy to jack. Those bumpers are plenty heavy enough that I doubt you'd every damage the bumper. If you don't go that route then I do like the aluminum floor jack to carry around.

Tracy

 

I ordered the Summit aluminum floor jack today. Should be here in a few days. I'd rather use that if I have to, and keep my restored original jack for shows.

 

Okay.... I'll bite. How do you restore a bumper jack? Most all I remember had crunch marks up the backside where the little flipper went into the notches as you ratchet. Plus all the slide marks as the jack-body went up & down. Paint? Chrome polish?

just kidding..
tom

 

Since youve got that setup from Summit... carry a peice of Carpet along with the jack, and use it to pad between the suspension and the jack. If you lift on the frame you have to raise it up far enough to unload the suspenion then farther to get the tire off the ground, but jacking on the suspension (like the rear axle near the leaf spring or on the front A Arm, Ibeam, etc etc) allows you to just lift the tire off the ground.

Good Luck!

 

Hours of blood, sweat, and tears!

 

Good idea. I will probably experiment a little in my garage first.