ignition
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New User
Joined: Jan 2005
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ignition
my 93 F-150 is driving me to drink. although it's a short drive!!
every so often, when i turn the key, nothing happens. i have power, but its not getting from the key to the starter.
i replaced the neg cable because it was bad. didn't fix the problem.
i replaced the ignition lock because it was bad (didn't need the key to start the truck) that didn't fix the problem either. (by the way, i went to the dealer and got a REAL ignition switch this time...4th time for this truck)
it is a sporadic problem, maybe once or twice a week. if i keep turning the key again and again, it will finally start.
any ideas?
every so often, when i turn the key, nothing happens. i have power, but its not getting from the key to the starter.
i replaced the neg cable because it was bad. didn't fix the problem.
i replaced the ignition lock because it was bad (didn't need the key to start the truck) that didn't fix the problem either. (by the way, i went to the dealer and got a REAL ignition switch this time...4th time for this truck)
it is a sporadic problem, maybe once or twice a week. if i keep turning the key again and again, it will finally start.
any ideas?
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
Starter or starter solenoid.
Can you hear the starter solenoid clicking at all? You can use a volt meter to check both the small wire (start from ign switch) and the hot wire (from battery) to be sure both show 12v when you turn the key. If you get both, but it's not cranking its the starter solenoid, which only comes with a starter.
I have had a starter that developed a dead spot and when the starter stopped in that exact spot once every few months, it would try to drain the battery in about 3 seconds (dead short). If I switched it on and off really fast 5 or 6 times I could get it to move and start. Replacing the starter fixed it.
Can you hear the starter solenoid clicking at all? You can use a volt meter to check both the small wire (start from ign switch) and the hot wire (from battery) to be sure both show 12v when you turn the key. If you get both, but it's not cranking its the starter solenoid, which only comes with a starter.
I have had a starter that developed a dead spot and when the starter stopped in that exact spot once every few months, it would try to drain the battery in about 3 seconds (dead short). If I switched it on and off really fast 5 or 6 times I could get it to move and start. Replacing the starter fixed it.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,666
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by Texan58
my 93 F-150 is driving me to drink. although it's a short drive!!
every so often, when i turn the key, nothing happens. i have power, but its not getting from the key to the starter.
i replaced the neg cable because it was bad. didn't fix the problem.
i replaced the ignition lock because it was bad (didn't need the key to start the truck) that didn't fix the problem either. (by the way, i went to the dealer and got a REAL ignition switch this time...4th time for this truck)
it is a sporadic problem, maybe once or twice a week. if i keep turning the key again and again, it will finally start.
any ideas?
every so often, when i turn the key, nothing happens. i have power, but its not getting from the key to the starter.
i replaced the neg cable because it was bad. didn't fix the problem.
i replaced the ignition lock because it was bad (didn't need the key to start the truck) that didn't fix the problem either. (by the way, i went to the dealer and got a REAL ignition switch this time...4th time for this truck)
it is a sporadic problem, maybe once or twice a week. if i keep turning the key again and again, it will finally start.
any ideas?
Here is a Diagram.
Last edited by subford; Jul 16, 2006 at 06:31 AM.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 561
Likes: 0
From: houston
I had a similar problem with my 97F250. It is the early body style, like yours. Everything checked out good. Battery was hot, passed load test, alt. was charging, S/G 1.275-1.300, all connections clean and bright. Finally I swapped batteries out of my car. Drove the truck for a month. Not one no-start. I bought a new battery and the problem has been gone for over a year now. Good luck.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 2
Originally Posted by Texan58
my 93 F-150 is driving me to drink. although it's a short drive!!
every so often, when i turn the key, nothing happens. i have power, but its not getting from the key to the starter.
i replaced the neg cable because it was bad. didn't fix the problem.
i replaced the ignition lock because it was bad (didn't need the key to start the truck) that didn't fix the problem either. (by the way, i went to the dealer and got a REAL ignition switch this time...4th time for this truck)
it is a sporadic problem, maybe once or twice a week. if i keep turning the key again and again, it will finally start.
any ideas?
every so often, when i turn the key, nothing happens. i have power, but its not getting from the key to the starter.
i replaced the neg cable because it was bad. didn't fix the problem.
i replaced the ignition lock because it was bad (didn't need the key to start the truck) that didn't fix the problem either. (by the way, i went to the dealer and got a REAL ignition switch this time...4th time for this truck)
it is a sporadic problem, maybe once or twice a week. if i keep turning the key again and again, it will finally start.
any ideas?
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
I had the exact same thing on my 92 F150...was the neutral saftey switch on my E4OD tranny. I was so excited when I replaced it, was only $12 and easy. Might not hurt to replace.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 805
Likes: 3
Albeit I did need a new starter too, I had a problem that was a completely different matter. One conductor (large one) coming outta the positive battery clamp failed inside the clamp. I got quite hostile when the truck didn't start with a brand new starter in it. Had the 12V to the starter relay, relay picked up just fine, but apparently corrosion that couldn't be seen killed the cable going from the battery to the starter solenoid. Replace the clamp on the positive post of the battery too.
If you got a new starter, you'll find that it came with a ring lug and short piece of wire bolted onto a modified solenoid, and a butt splice to connect the old wire from the starter relay. The spade connectors at the solenoid are a reliability issue according to the documentation that came with my new starter.
If you got a new starter, you'll find that it came with a ring lug and short piece of wire bolted onto a modified solenoid, and a butt splice to connect the old wire from the starter relay. The spade connectors at the solenoid are a reliability issue according to the documentation that came with my new starter.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
You can tell the battery cable is corroded if it has swollen sections. Road salt reacts with the copper and makes a salty dust. I had one with the cable ate up about 18 inches into the cable too.
My local store didn't cary the Ford replacement, they said it was about 50$ to order, but gave me a generic replacement for about 18$, it may have even been a size larger.
My local store didn't cary the Ford replacement, they said it was about 50$ to order, but gave me a generic replacement for about 18$, it may have even been a size larger.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 805
Likes: 3
There was ABSOLUTELY no indication of corrosion, heating, or otherwise. Clamp looked perfect, as it should have. Prior to this little incident, only one battery change has EVER been done. I left the cargo light on one night, and killed the OE battery, and it went downhill from there. The battery I have in it now is the third since the engine block was cast, i.e. the electrical on this truck has been zero defect, zero problem. The lack of any evidence of failure is what threw me off. Considering my arms are normal length, it was a bit difficult to check continuity from the starter to the battery. As much as I HATE doing it, I pierced the insulation about 1 inch from the clamp, and VOILA! $2 clamp from the parts house woulda saved me $70 for the battery that I also changed.
