Fuel leaking from underneath
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Fuel leaking from underneath
Hi,
I just noticed this morning that my truck was leaking fuel. At first I thought it might be coolant because it appeared to be very thin. Fuel is dripping from the transmission crossmember bolt on the frame rail, and the rear of the driverside leafspring perch. Is there a connection at this part in the fuel system that commonly leaks? The truck starts and drives fine, no issues there. Is it possible that I simply overfilled the tanks and fuel leaked out. The truck is parked on a slight down hill...maybe?
I am supposed to drive the truck this weekend roundtrip about 200 miles..... I might hold off. Let me know what you think; thanks in advance.
- Jerry
I just noticed this morning that my truck was leaking fuel. At first I thought it might be coolant because it appeared to be very thin. Fuel is dripping from the transmission crossmember bolt on the frame rail, and the rear of the driverside leafspring perch. Is there a connection at this part in the fuel system that commonly leaks? The truck starts and drives fine, no issues there. Is it possible that I simply overfilled the tanks and fuel leaked out. The truck is parked on a slight down hill...maybe?
I am supposed to drive the truck this weekend roundtrip about 200 miles..... I might hold off. Let me know what you think; thanks in advance.
- Jerry
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,509
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From: Ladner, British Columbia
The area you are describing is where the electric fuel selector valve for the two tanks is usually located.
Look for a valve that is bolted on the inside of the frame and has about six hoses and one electrical connection connected to it.
There are a lot of hose connections at that point an maybe on has started leaking or the fuel selector valve itself has started leaking or one of the hoses/tubing has rubbed thru.
Look for a valve that is bolted on the inside of the frame and has about six hoses and one electrical connection connected to it.
There are a lot of hose connections at that point an maybe on has started leaking or the fuel selector valve itself has started leaking or one of the hoses/tubing has rubbed thru.
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I think that might be where the issues lies. Are the fuel lines green and blue plastic? I believe one might have started to crack. But if it was, wouldnt air leak into the system and not allow the truck to run. I just drove the thing for about 20 minutes without any problems. Let me know what you think, thanks.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
If the line that is cracked is a return line, it will not affect the running at all.
Also you may have a pin hole rusted in the front fuel tank. If that is the case it will not affect running either, but it will continue to get worse.
The brackets and skid plates can hold a lot of dirt against the tank which will rust it through after enough time. The dirt stays wet for several days after running in the rain or snow.
Also you may have a pin hole rusted in the front fuel tank. If that is the case it will not affect running either, but it will continue to get worse.
The brackets and skid plates can hold a lot of dirt against the tank which will rust it through after enough time. The dirt stays wet for several days after running in the rain or snow.
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Thanks for the responses so far. I crawled back under the truck and checked a few areas, the tanks and the fuel selector valve. To my surprise, the tanks, valve, and the frame rails in that area are completely dry. The area where the leak is originating from is by the transmission crossmember and forward; when I am under the truck the leak seems to be forming just between the door and fender, but in the frame rail where the fuel lines are?
I called a ford dealership and they mentioned they no longer sell these fuel lines....what would I have to do to fabricate these lines.... can I use rubber lines etc? Thanks again for the help, take care.
- Jerry
I called a ford dealership and they mentioned they no longer sell these fuel lines....what would I have to do to fabricate these lines.... can I use rubber lines etc? Thanks again for the help, take care.
- Jerry
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Thanks for the quick response Dave. The truck is an 1986. I am going to check it out right now. What usually fails on the water seperator? I'll keep you posted.
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bad water seperator??
I took a peak at the water seperator. I cannot see any huge leaks, but i can see that the lines running along the inner frame rail just underneath the water seperator are wet. I am assuming the return line is leaking since the truck runs. What are the common issues with the 6.9 water seperator...what is the cost of a new unit or the parts involved.
I know another option is to bypass the existing seperator and use a 7.3 fuel filter head unit. Is it safe to bypass the 6.9 seperator without immidiately hooking up the 7.3 system. I was planning on using the truck this weekend for about 200 miles. Thanks again.
I know another option is to bypass the existing seperator and use a 7.3 fuel filter head unit. Is it safe to bypass the 6.9 seperator without immidiately hooking up the 7.3 system. I was planning on using the truck this weekend for about 200 miles. Thanks again.
Last edited by SqueekyM; Jul 13, 2006 at 06:14 PM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
The old style water seperator was notorious for leaking air into the system and fuel out of the system.
One workaround that several people have used is to insert a bolt into the drain line and then put a hose clamp on it.
Mine was leaking air into the system around the top pull ring post.
I was having start issues toward the end before I changed over to the new style.
I have since swapped to the 7.3 style filter/seperator combination.
But as all things would go, the 7.3 style filter is 19.95 where the 6.9 style was 5 bucks.
One workaround that several people have used is to insert a bolt into the drain line and then put a hose clamp on it.
Mine was leaking air into the system around the top pull ring post.
I was having start issues toward the end before I changed over to the new style.
I have since swapped to the 7.3 style filter/seperator combination.
But as all things would go, the 7.3 style filter is 19.95 where the 6.9 style was 5 bucks.
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I have since swapped to the 7.3 style filter/seperator combination
Dave,
Is this the one that screws into the 6.9s filter head? I have seen the seperator/bowl replacement advertised and wondered if it was the same bowl as the 7.3. I have a 7.3 but want to have an extra seperator/bowl to make filter changes faster.
Dave,
Is this the one that screws into the 6.9s filter head? I have seen the seperator/bowl replacement advertised and wondered if it was the same bowl as the 7.3. I have a 7.3 but want to have an extra seperator/bowl to make filter changes faster.
Last edited by gumboluvr; Jul 13, 2006 at 07:24 PM.
Post Fiend
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Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
I have two filter heads, they are identical, on is the OEM 86 that came on my truck, the other is off one of the 7.3 reman engines I had. I got the filter bottom for 2000 dollars, but it did have a set of injectors, an IP, a turbo and several other parts with it.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,509
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From: Ladner, British Columbia
I finally got rid my factory filter on my 91' on the weekend and replaced it with a Racor R45 with the internal hand prime pump. Unlike my 93', I decide to mount this one on the old bracket, just had to make an adapter block to raise the Racor up about an inch. Racor Filter c/w prime pump was $CDN 130 at the local marine store.
Once I took the old filter apart is was clear where my slow air leak came from. A piece of dirt had lodged itself into the drain seal on the bowl. It sealed enough to keep the fuel in under pressure but not enough to keep air out under vacuum.
Seb....
Once I took the old filter apart is was clear where my slow air leak came from. A piece of dirt had lodged itself into the drain seal on the bowl. It sealed enough to keep the fuel in under pressure but not enough to keep air out under vacuum.
Seb....
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