Hydraulic Clutch System Bleeding
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New User
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Hydraulic Clutch System Bleeding
ok, so after destroying three slave cylinders i have decided that maybe there is a deeper problem. I have a 1993 F250 Turbo Diesel with a 5 speed. 4x4. I have the new "upgraded" hydraulic system installed now, master, slave, and line. My new problem is bleeding the system so that it works. the new slave come with a bleeder screw. it is externally mounted and gravity is too slow. i was wondering if there was a more effecient proper way of getting this job complete...thanks
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,509
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From: Ladner, British Columbia
Afraid not,
There are two ways to do the bleeding:
1, Bench bleed the MC, hose and slave and then install as a unit.
2, Try to get enough air out so you can drive it and the rest of the air will work itself out thru the MC over time. (Mine took about 3 months) If you can't get enough pedal go to 1, above.
Search this forum under my name, I posted several lengthy posts on the subject of the 93' clutch bleeding.
Make sure you get a new master cylinder without that stupid plastic lug. Mine broke several times.
Also, check your firewall and clutch pedal bracket for cracks, if the pedal support bracket breaks way from the Firewall or the firewall has cracks the clutch will feel like you got air when you don't.
There are two ways to do the bleeding:
1, Bench bleed the MC, hose and slave and then install as a unit.
2, Try to get enough air out so you can drive it and the rest of the air will work itself out thru the MC over time. (Mine took about 3 months) If you can't get enough pedal go to 1, above.
Search this forum under my name, I posted several lengthy posts on the subject of the 93' clutch bleeding.
Make sure you get a new master cylinder without that stupid plastic lug. Mine broke several times.
Also, check your firewall and clutch pedal bracket for cracks, if the pedal support bracket breaks way from the Firewall or the firewall has cracks the clutch will feel like you got air when you don't.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
sauced1173,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.
You can usually bleed enough air out of the slave cylinder using the brake bleeding method to get the clutch working enough to drive it. After I get mine to the point I can get it in and out of gear I go for a drive on the hilliest roughest road I can find.
Shift gears a lot and usually within 15 or 20 miles the air will be gone. You will need to take some fluid with you and refill the master cylinder once it starts to work like it should.
When you have someone to push the clutch in while bleeding the slave cylinder, have them push and release the clutch several times while you watch the master cylinder. If it moves more than just a very slight movement you probably have a cracked fire wall. For has a repair plate that fixes the problem that is not expensive at all, less than 5 dollars.
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.
You can usually bleed enough air out of the slave cylinder using the brake bleeding method to get the clutch working enough to drive it. After I get mine to the point I can get it in and out of gear I go for a drive on the hilliest roughest road I can find.
Shift gears a lot and usually within 15 or 20 miles the air will be gone. You will need to take some fluid with you and refill the master cylinder once it starts to work like it should.
When you have someone to push the clutch in while bleeding the slave cylinder, have them push and release the clutch several times while you watch the master cylinder. If it moves more than just a very slight movement you probably have a cracked fire wall. For has a repair plate that fixes the problem that is not expensive at all, less than 5 dollars.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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also--where the slave rod goes to the clutch arm--with a big channelock--squeeze the rod into the slave cylinder--slowly--will force both bubbles--and fluid up--hold for a mite--then slowly let loose--after a couple times --should be bled---this with fluid in the system---
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2004
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u have to preload the clutch arm so its fully depressed toward the back of the truck. then u will be able to get fluid into the slave cylinder. it usally will take 2 people to do this one to hold the arm the other to pump the pedal. you will have full travel after this.
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thanks a lot for all ur help. it ended up being pretty much a combonation of all procedures. i pulled the unit back out of the truck and hooked it all together and bench bled the master. it only took about an inch of travel to get bubbles flowing, there were a lot. so after my palm started getting sore, my buddy pushed on the slave piston and bubbles went crazy and that was it, it was bled. we got it back in the truck and it wasnt completely ready, so we kept pumping the pedal and releasing air from the screw on the slave. after this didnt quite get it we were going to try bench bleeding again in vehicle tho. so i pulled the slave off and we worked the pedal about and inch and no bubbles, so i crawled back under the truck and released the bleed screw and the last bit of air surfaced. we fought to get the slave back in place, since the piston was so stiff now having full pressure. once we got it back in place i was down the road. what a pain...but i am glad its over and i did not have to replace the whole clutch...thanks again...~Steve
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